Raul

I wouldn 't put him down, what your dog needs is not pain killers, antiinflamatory drugs nor neutraceutics, what your dog needs is surgery and it 's not even a complicated and/or expensive one, all the vet has to do is tu cut away the femur head, if it 's bilateral then one femur head is removed and six to eight weeks later the other one is removed and in 12-16 weeks you have a brand new dog without pain.

X2, if you are going to spend in GLoomis go straight ahead for the IMX. I have several GL2s, good rods but there are other rods as good for that money, no significant advantage, GL3s are in the same wagon, IMXs ---> now we 're talking business.

Well, 6+ months of waiting period before you can put your hands on one is a shure way to shy away the potential victim .... oops, sorry, I meant "client".

It doesn 't need to float. In practical terms almost any soft plastic bait can be shakey head rigged however straight tail worms are to me the most productive, there 's something to them ( the kind of action the worm has when twitched, jerked or shaked ) that attracts the fish and makes them very effective. The jighead doesn 't need to stand up.

So, what happened with the Gan Craft rods ? did you order them ?

You don 't "cast" a swimbait, you throw a swimbait, leave four to six inches of line between the swimbait and the rod tip, place one hand on the reel and the other one on the handle as far away as you can, swing the rod and let that sucker fly away.

Read Chris ' post about crankbaiting, excellent material. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1189587143/17#17

I 've fished with several Toray lines, nylon ( Ninja ) and fluoro ( Super Hard Strong ), only problem with them has always been the danged friggin ' lack of supply when I 'm out of line >, so back to the old trusty always available Trilene XL, XT and Big Game, that lack of a reliable supply of japanese lines has made me turn away from them. Other than that they are really good products.

That 's an easy one, I learned to fish worms with straight tail worms: Mann 's 6" Jelly Worms, even though I 've got other types of worms straight tail worms have always worked for me, in other words, 80% of my worming is done with straight tail worms. After stocking heavily with Jelly Worms in the mid 80 's my inventory of them lasted until a couple of years ago, I tried Trickworms and liked them very much so now I fish with trickworms almost exclusively.

X2 Hey Marty, it 's real pleasure to finally meet you in person. It 's the first time in many years we 've met in this and in many other forums that I 've been able to see how you look like.

There 's something "unholy" about sitting a Shimano reel on a Daiwa rod and vceversa.

Define "crabs". There a very few freshwater crabs species I can remember and crab is not synonimous of crawfish ( or crayfish ) which are really freshwater species. So if what you are catching looks like this: Then most problably the water has too high salt content for bass to live in.

I had one of those too. Emphasis on the "had" Add another member to that club !

When it comes to jigs I 'm as cheap as I can get, I loose so many of them so oftenly ( cuz if you ain 't throwing your baits when they can get snagged and lost you ain 't fishing where the fish are, and I practice what I preach ) that I practically purchase jigs by the bulk, BPS jigs have very good hooks and are cheap so that 's what I use, any color is fine as long as it is black, trailer ? don 't have a particular preference for trailer brand or color, it can be from a 5 inch grub all the way up to a Brush Hog. On the other hand, avoid Berkley 's Power Craw at any cost, that thing is hard as a stone.

GLoomis CR721 and 722.

No kiddin '!

ABT/Strike King swimbaits are so-so, add to the list the MS Slammer and the AC plug, not the greatest and most detailed looking but proven fish catchers.

Dude, different baits : Lucky Craft has 3 hard swimbaits: Real California: Real California Premium: Real California Supreme:

There are many from where to choose affordability and availability wise would be a Fish Arrow Monster Jack ( they are on sale at TW ! ), Lucky Craft 's Real California is also a good choice ( you can fish that one with a H power rod ), one of my favorites is the Team Daiwa Dead or Alive. Haven 't tried the SPRO BBZ yet but I 've only heard good things about it. I do have other hard swimbaits but some are not easy to find available, some have to be ordered overseas ( Japan ) or are "expensive" so I don 't list them.

The flipping button disengages the spool as long as the thumbar release is pressed, the moment you lift the thumb from the thumbar the spool reengages, no need to turn the handle. But there 's a huge drawback with that system, if you happen to lift the thumb while the spool is rotating -----> there go your reel 's gears !

Not necessarily, I like to fish with the absolute best I can afford, it can take me months of saving by the pennies but at the end it has been worth all the time and effort.

I used to live in shack like that one, then I discovered bass fishing and ......... :-X

Excellent info Paul. Shallow water may not necessarily be oxygen poor but can have enough oxygen content for bass to be in it, down here where I live air temps can be easily in the 100 's, water temps can be in the 90 's, I can 't speak about other climates because my experience is limited to warm water environments. So why is it that you don 't find the fish in warmer water ? it 's the temperature, bass can survive in 90 degree water easily for extended periods of time, no they are not going to "burn" out, there are two factors to take in consideration: 1.- Like Paul mentioned, methabolic rate, the warmer the water the higher the methabolic rate, it means that the fish has to eat more in order to maintain it 's organism running. 2.- Comfort zone, bass prefer water in the 70-75 degree range, not only it 's methanolic rate is tops at that temp it 's also that they feel comfortable at that temp. It 's just like us, where would you rather be, getting fried at 100 degrees or being in your house with the AC on comfortably sitting on the couch at 65-70 degrees ? Fish go deeper where the cooler water ( which also has a higher oxygen content ) is or in the shade to be comfortable, that 's why you don 't find them where the water is warmer.

Oh yeah, that would be one, I paid don 't remember if it was 18 or 20 bucks for it in the 90 's and never caught even a cold with it.

If you don 't have an upper quality fish finder that can detect and show the thermocline on the screen like WRB explained you can interpret what the unit is telling you by looking at how the fish icons that appear in the screen are distributed along the water column, if there is a thermocline then you will see fish icons above or on the thermocline layer but not below a certain depth in the water column, since the water below the thermocline is oxygen poor and the water near the surface is too warm fish icons will be "sadndwiched" between both and distributed in your screen, this tells you at which depths you should present your baits and which areas you should avoid and not waste your time, there ain 't nobody there.