Raul

I 'm going to take the precaution of getting enough of them for at least another 20 years.

Definition of "Vintage": BaitMonkey ( pesky lil critter ain 't it ? ) made you purchase a ton of it back then during the age of the dinosaurs and now you are out of it. Made an inventory and all I 've got left are 50 worms of those old 6" Mann 's Jelly Waggler worms I 've fished for a couple of decades, unlike the Jelly Worm which is still in production these are completely discontinued so I got a couple of packs of Zoom 's Shakey Tails worms hoping that they could replace them, went to wet a line this Saturday and oh boy ! they do replace the Jelly Waggler, actually I think they are better than the Jelly Waggler , the tail is longer and with an extra curve which makes it give away more good vibes, plus you got the combination of a thin tail and a curlier longer paddle that reacts with liveliness at even the slightest twitch. Needless to say that I 'm very happy and plan to purchase more .... a lot more.

Much to learn you still have.

Re: We're not worthy! Dude, you are in love ? :-*

Dude, a 6" tiki stick is by far what you can consider a "light" bait, it weights well over 1/4 oz.

Casting distance is ruled by a conjunction of a lot of factors like: line ( type & diameter ), rod action & power ( the lure is within rod specs to load properly ), rod lenght ( longer rods cast farther because you have more leverage ), lure ( weight, aerodynamic profile ), reel ( spool weight, type of spool supporting bearings, , braking system, lubrication ), casting technique and so on. For example, you say you have 10 lb test nylon, the catch is which type, XL doesn 't cast like Big Game or XT even being the same diameter. Brake settings and line tension also play a role. Like IB mentioned, lure aerodynamics ( jerkbaits like the original Rapala cast like crap ) and perhaps you reel isn 't the best distance achiever. What you should do ? well the only thing you can do is to experiment.

The catch is trying to determine if braid is better suited for what you want or for where you fish. I 've been in this hobby for long enough to understand that up to this moment there 's no such thing as the "perfect" aboslutely all around line, what works great in one place doesn 't work that great in another, what one line has ( properties ) the other one lacks and all the way around. So take example and listen to what people with expirence has to say. For example, Marty: Braid is incredibly abrasion-resistant to wood and vegetation True, he says "allegedly very poor in rocks" , he ain 't 100% sure cuz: I don't fish rocky water, no experience so there 's a certain degree of uncertainty. Now comes Franks and says: i love braid but NOT AROUND ROCKS...the bad reputation braid has around rocks is well-deserved, believe you me. I fish with braid and like Marty said, it 's great for fishing wood and vegetation, I absolutely concur and like Frank said, you fish with that line around rocks and kiss it goodbye ( those guys who regularily fish tourneys at El Cuchillo found out pretty soon when they came down here to fish a tourney in Zimapan that braided isn 't exactly the greatest and it don 't matter that 's it 's 60 lbs test ). So that means, that depending upon where and what I 'm fishing I may use different types of line, I 'm mainly a nylon monofilament user, most of my reels are spooled with nylon, I like the properties of nylon but I do know that it may not be "the best" for all applications.

Dude, sinker weight is a tool :, what you are going to use dpends on what you want the bait to do and if such is the better suited for the situation, place and location, where you got the idea that 1/2 oz sinkers are only for the big baits ? Kiddo can 't lift his rod.

Pitch: you strip line ( about a rod length ) from the reel, you grab the bait with your free hand, aim at the target with the rod tip and pitch with the rod as you release the bait from your free hand.

Flipping: you strip a certain ammount of line from the reel, enough to reach the target, you grab the line with your free hand and pull it until you have about 1-2 ft of line from the rod tip with the bait danging from it, aim with the rod and flip ( for the lack of a better word ) the bait and while at the same time you release the line from the free hand, the bait acts like a pendulum.

X2.

Re: 3/16oz to light for bait casting? No.

Rust may be or may be not "contagious", it depends, put a rusty hook in extended contact to a non rusted hook and the non rusted will rust with time. But the important thing here is not if rust is contagious or not, what is important is why the rust appears, and rust appears when the object in question remains for an extended period of time in an environment that promotes rusting, like humidity; leave you baits in a moist t-box and they will rust, toss them inside the box without allowing them to dry thoroughly and they will rust, leave them imbeded in a salted bait and they will rust ( and they rust in a matter of hours ). In order to keep your hooks from rusting you must be shure they are not in a moisty environment, a couple of packs of silica gel ( moist absorber ) in you t-box keeps the moisture inside the box in low levels.

There is no right or wrong answer, it depends on where, what and how you are fishing, those tell you if you need to peg the sinker or not, about 80% of the time I don 't peg the sinker nor need to, the rest of the time if the conditions ask for it I peg the sinker.

My friend, skippin is casting technique to place a bait in places where you can 't reach with other casting techniques and that 's about it, it doesn 't mean that every time you skip a bait it has to be done to the thickest and nastiest stuff you can find underwater. You may have nasty stuff above water level, but that don 't mean it 's the same underwater. If you are to fish nasty stuff then your gear should be appropiate for such conditions and then your reel may or may not handle light baits assuming you have the right line and the right rod.

Exactly, you say it can 't be done with your gear, I say it can be done if you have the proper equipment .... I didn 't say it was going to be cheap. Don 't got the dough to get the proper bc equipment to do it then don 't think it too much, for the lighter stuff you will end up getting at least one spinning setup to handle the lighter weights.

The problem is not you but the combination of rod/line/reel 1.- your reels can 't cast the lighter baits. 2.- your rod doesn 't load enough with light weights 3.- your line is not the appropiate line for those weights. Match a Daiwa Pixy to a GLoomis CR721 and spool some 4-6 lb test and you can cast a 3 inch senko into the next zip code with a flick of the wrist.

Can you control the weather ? Only if you were capable of controlling the variables of nature then those "prime times" would have value otherwise they are as valuable as the ink they are written with, in other words, they are worth next to nothing. What you can control is where you fish, with what, for how long and how you fish it, your success is limited in your own ability to adapt you fishing baits, rigging techniques, the way you present the bait based upon the conditions and locations. That 's what separates a good day from a bad day. Now if you want a perfect excuse for not catching fish then you can blame it on the weather, the solunar tables, the moon phase, the water temperature or the Earth not being in the correct alignment with Neptune on the Taurus constellation.

Muddy you can get a small pack of terminal grease at any AutoZone, that grease stops the salt build up.

You can never have "too much" thrust in your TM, make hin get the biggest, meanest, more powerful he can get, screw what the boat comes with, everything is fine until the wind begins to blow. When I purchased my 12 ft jonboat I jumped on a 30 pounder and it serves the purpose for most ocassions except when the wind blows hard, should have purchased at leat a 40 pounder.

Tie a snap/swivel combination ---> line twist problem solved.

Dude that told you don 't been long nuff in this game, d-shot is not exactly "new", nu name for ole rigging technique called "hook above sinker" ( as we old farts know it ) actually is one of the many live bait rigs ( as wacky rigging or nose hooking split shot rigging or the fly and balloon rigging ) to which soft plastic baits can be adapted, it 's a creative solution to a problem. I say it 's not new, new to many cuz many of us had those rigging techniques hidden in the closet.

Don 't know where you guys get the idea that a dropshot bait should be teeny tiny :-?, you can dropshot any bait of any size. D-shotting is a rigging technique.

For what I can remember the difference between BCRs and MBRs ( aside from the length ) is the action, BCRs have extra fast action while MBRs have fast actions.

Nothing can beat the consistency of a Rapala bait in that price range.