Raul

It 's hunting season down here, not cuz we can 't fish, it 's cuz it 's the only time of the year we can shoot at something without getting a hefty fine.

Baits usually weight more than what you see stamped on the package. For ex a jig: 1/4 oz is 1/4 oz lead + the hook + the skirt + the weedguard ( in case it has one ) + the rattle ( in case it has one ) For a spinnerbait: 1/4 oz is 1/4 oz lead + the hook + the wire + the clevis ( es )+ the beads + the swivel + the blade ( s ), so a 1/4 oz spinnerbait will weight close or over 3/8 of an ounce depending upon how many blades and the size of them.

They get the gas from their blood Fourbizz, gases like oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen can dissolve in the blood ( gas solubility ), fish have specialized cells that can draw the dissolved blood gases from the blood and transfer them into the the air bladder. The gas found in the "air" bladder is mainly nitrogen gas.

Wire and duct tape, that 's the answer.

Magnetic brakes work by the attraction of magnets on the spool rotor, closer proximity of the magnets to the rotor greater magnetic attraction on the rotor = more braking ( dial up ). Centrifugal brakes work in a different fashion, they work upon the distance of the wight in relation to the spool shaft, further away from the spool shaft more centrifugal force = more breaking ( pushing away the weight from the spool shaft ). Hybrid systems incorporate both mechanisms, in theory you can make finer adjustments to the spool braking by fine tunning one or the other mechanism. However there 's a catch, some systems do better on certain applications than others, and you also have certain braking systems in some reel models that you can 't find in others. Daiwa has 3 magnetic systems: Magforce, Magforce V and Magforce Z, plus 3 types of rotors: ordinary, Type R and Type R+. Shimano adresses the braking power of their reels in different fashion: by changing the weights for further fine tunning, all compatible with their centrifugal weight system. Upper end Shimano reels come with pre installed weights plus a bag with an extra set of weights ( identical in weight to the ones preinstalled ) and with an extra set of heavier weights for heavier baits. How to set a centrifugal weight: By pushing out the weights in a confuguration that maintains the spool balanced, so with six weights you have the following possible configurations: o = all wights inactive I = 2 weights activated Y = 3 weights activated X = 4 weights activated O = 6 weights activated That 's how they work, but that doesn 't mean that the system works the same way in all reels, one way is how it works and another thing is how that system works in a particular or reel model; regardless of the braking system, spool control is where it 's always been ---> in the thumb. When you 've fished with a certain reel brand you get used that the reels will brake ( like you want ) with a particular brake setting; i can jump from my old Curados to my Metaniums of Chronarchs and I know how they brake, that doesn 't apply if I change to another system ( for ex if I jump from Shimano to Daiwa ) or to another brand ( Shimano or Daiwa to let 's say AbuGarcia ), if I change then I have to make some casts to adjust the braking system in such a fashion I can control the spool rotation without backlashing ( it 's all in the thumb ), I have to get the hang of it.

The swim bladder is not just a membranous "thing" filled with gas sorta balloon like object, it 's a very complex organ that controls the bouyancy of the fish, the adjustments in the gas in-gas out ammount are controlled by the nervous system which control blood vessels, specialized tissue and the pneumatic channel that regulate the ammount of gas the bladder needs to maintain a desired depth ( desired or needed by the animal ). The adjustments in pressure are done extremely fast. Some may say, if the changes are deone extemely fast why is it that some fish exhibit air bladder problems when reeled in from the depths, well, the explanation is simple, when you reel in a fish from the depths at a faster rate of ascent the gas contained in the air bladder expands faster than what the regulating mechanisms can deal with it 's when the fish exhibits air bladder problems.

For an in-line spinner a swivel/snap combo is not a must but by all means, use one !. For a spinnerbait ? don 't see what 's the point of adding a swivel, spinnerbaits usually don 't rotate on their longitudinal axis ( no line twist ) while in-line spinners do ( lotz and lotz of line twist ).

Between a Curado and a JM I would pick a Curado. Shimano reels have centrifugal braking system from starting at the Cruxis and up. Daiwas have magnetic braking system. BPS reels have hybrid ( centrifugal/magnetic ) braking system. Which one is best ? In practical terms for the everyday Joe there 's no right nor wrong answer, if you can cast proficiently with a baitcaster any braking system is good. The spool overrun control will be where it has always been ----> in the thumb.

The only differences between a Flash and a Senko are: The color selection, Kinami has fewer color selection and some colors are kinami exclusve. Flashes are labeled at the worm sack, the wave and Kinami name are molded on the bait, senkos are not labeled. Other than those two differences the baits are exactly the same with the same properties ( texture, softness, sink rate, salt content ).

I stepped on that kind of bait a couple of years ago when Imakatsu launched them to the market under the name of Javallon, later Lake Fork Tackle copied the bait, LFT 's Live Magic Shad are cheaper than the original, easier to get and light years ahead in durability, however the original has better swimming action because it 's softer ( only problem is that softness causes the durability to plummet to the abyss , sneeze hard on a Javallon and it tears ). You can rig and fish the bait in many ways but if you are going to swim it like a swimbait you have to be shure that when you rig it the hook is perfectly in the middle line of the bait or it will run crooked.

Rapala Shad Raps Rapala Original Fat Raps Rapala Risto Raps Bagley 's B 's. None of them have rattles.

I hope that the color they chose wasn 't the one the old Chronarch had -----> Fugly !!!

You should see one with the drag star and tension knob cap anodized in caramel red, it looks even cooler. Not as flashy but I 've got 3 of these babies.

Don 't you hate it when it happens ? that horrible weather and no chances of wetting a line , Gotta say that we are in the same boat, this weekend it 's HER WEDDING ANNIVERSARY and I don 't think I can get away with it, I value too much my hide to make the mistake of going fishing.

Flashy like this ?

You don 't have to "match" nuthin for the lure to be effective, if the lure has a good action, has good quality hardware, the hooks are quality made and sharp how naturally the lure is finished lacks of importance. I would choose Blue Herring because of the reflective surfaces, now you say where you fish there 's only carp and bluegill, if you want to "match" you could choose Dirty Shad, why ? because common, mirror and buffalo carp ( which are the most common kinds ) have those colors:

What I recommend would be ( and you 're not going to believe it but senkos are not in the liest ): Culprit 7.5 ribbon tail worm, we us southern boys have been catching bass on them for decades. Color ? choose the color you like. Mann 's 6" Jelly Worm or Zoom Trickworm, same case as the previous, those have worked for me for ages. Jigs, I don 't care about which brand as long as it has a good quality razor sharp hook, I fish with BPS jigs cuz the hook is good and taking in consideration that very seldomly any jig I pull out of the tackle box returns to it I prefer the cheap ones. No TBox should be without the Rapala Shad Rap ( you choose size, style and color ), I 've caught more fish on them than with any other crankbait I 've owned or own. No Tbox should be without Rat-LTraps, change the hooks for good ones. No Tbox should be without a Jitterbug Spinnerbaits, choose whatever you want as long as the hook is sharp and strong, and as long as it has a good quality swivel, I still fish with some of my 10+ years old Strike Kings.

Rapala Rattlin Fat Rap Rapala Fat Rap Rapala Shallow Fat Rap Heddon Sonic and Super Sonic Mann 's Jelly Waggler

You should at least have: 600+ crankbaits 100+ spinnerbaits 200+ jigs 50+ swimbaits 80+ pounds of soft plastics. That 's a nice starter kit. Why ? cuz it 's better having and not needing than needing and not having.

One of the most realistc games I 've played is Bass Fishing Duel by Sega, you can select weather, season, lake, hours to fish, lures to fish, lures move realistically, fish react very realistically to presentation & fishing technique. Wrong lure, wrong presentation for the conditions it can get really hard, just like in real life. BTW, how big is the world record ?

I prefer X-fast over fast for spinnerbaits and unweighted soft plastics.

When: anytime, anyday How: that 's where the catch begins. It 's a matter of how and not when, how is determined by the conditions. In how many way you can rig a fluke ?: 1.- D-shot 2.- traditional T-rigged unweighted 3.- T-rigged with a weighted hook 4.- Carolina rigged 5.- Split shot T rigged 6.- Split shot nose rigged 7.- Shakey head rigged 8.- Jighead rigged 9.- Double fluke rigged 10.- Wacky rigged along the back unweighted 11.- Wacky rigged along the back nose weighted 12.- Wacky rigged perpendiculary going hooking all the way through the bait. Those are some of the ways you can rig a fluke, at least 12 completely different presentations all with the same bait.

Manufacturing & raw material cost increase.

Who ? me ? nah .....

Knock Knock! Who's there? Hmmm, let me guess : ....... the BaitMonkey ! Oh man, I 'm good at guessing