Raul

Think about power and action more than thinking about length.

The Hula twintail grub and the Fat Ika are two different animals, diffent action, different weight, different sink rate and the twin tail doesn 't do what the Fat Ika does. You are only a click away from them.

I aint seen one of these in forever .318 0r 340 ?? dana 44,s i assume .i love me some old power wagons and ram chargers back when they BUILT real TRUCKS .Matter of fact the big 3 made the best trucks in world from the 30,s till the late 80,s .then trucks turned into cars ;D Lots of horses in that injun and all of them thirsty , mine is '93, got a lil bit over 100 k miles and I ain 't planning to sell it soon, tows almost any boat like if it were a toy ( can carry up to 3 jonboats, 2 on a trailer and one cartopped ), got plenty of room, comfortably sit six and the seats are extra thick and quite ergonomical so after driving several hours to them remote big bass meccas in northern Mexico you don 't suffer from flat rear end syndrome nor back pain.

The Calais 100A only exist as right handed, you want a lefty you 'll have to go JDM for an Anatres AR. I used to own one ( sold it to get me a TDZ ), fantastic little reel, kinda like a beamer M3, a luxury sedan with a twist of sportscar ; small, easy to palm, silky smooth, capable of handling all kind of baits including the small ones, the spool is similar to the one found in the Chronarch Mg and Chronarch 100B ( low mass further lightened ), at any price below retailit 's a no brainer.

Berkley horizontal rod holders screwed to the ceiling of my Ram Charger SUV.

Well I ain 't in the military but I moved 3 times the past 7 years and it sux >, still can find some fishin stuff I packed in the last move and it 's been three years since that :-?. My house still looks like the streets of Beirut. ( we haven 't finished unpacking yet ).

How much under 100 bucks ? Cuz exactly at 100 bucks ( or 1 cent below 100 bucks ) you can purchase a Shimano Compre, very nice rod for 100 bones. At around 70 bones you can get a Shimano Clarus, very good rod for around 70.

Always loosen your drag and your cast control cap on your bcs, your drags will last a lifetime if you do that.

What rod line I use for jigs, well that depends on the jig weight and jig use so for jig fishing I can use anywhere from a medium light fast action rod with 6 pound test all the way up to a heavy extra fast rod with 25 lbs test. Doesn 't have to be a special setup for jigs, it depends on the application.

Neither is better than the other, there are days the tube catches a lot more than the jig, there are days both work equaly well and there are days the jig is better than the tube. Tubes do one thing jigs won 't do, to sink down in a spiral motion that 's lethal when fish are suspended or when fishing vertical bluffs.

8 lbs is fine for most applications 10 lbs is stiffer than 8 lbs but still manageable, almost all around. 12 lbs or more for uprooting stumps and sunken brush ( good for flipping to heavy cover of for fishing frogs above pads n 'stuff like that ).

Have you tried Kinami Baits website ?

Famous words from Charlton Heston: "From my cold dead hands" Thank God there 's no "fishing tackle" control nor ban.

In order to make room for all the new lighter, stronger, faster, more filling, tastes great stuff that is out there ... oh well, I 'll just have to make an addition to my house to store it.

Nope, I don 't use line conditioner.

Yeah, right :. Haven 't you ever heard of The BaitMonkey ?!?!? :-? As meticulous as I am ( some of my oldest reels are more than 20 years old ) I still got this ...how can I say it ? uhhhh ...... URGE or ITCH or whatever you want to call it to purchase new tackle, I appreciate my old stuff but I also appreciate my new stuff and since there 's always something new on the horizon, well, ya know ---> the never ending story, you can never have "too much" tackle .

Then the Citica is your poison.

Uhhh..... No. Too light ? ---> man, you 've never fished with CXX. Too thin ? well, if your reel has got lots of line capacity then yeah, it takes a truckload of line to fill the spool, but if you 've got a shallow spool reel then thin with aboslutely ridiculous tensile strength and abarassion resistance CXX is your baby.

Add my routine to Natural 's routine and your stuff will look as new ( I too wax reels and rods ) for years, if I weren 't who I am I could easily sell my stuff as NIB and you could swear it 's NIB.

Before fishing at lake: Take out rods from tube and reels from case Remove the rod cover Remove the reel cover Run line through guides Tie lures Place rod cover Place reel cover Place lure cover While fishing: Remove rod, reel and lure cover of set up to be used The moment ste up is goin to be replaced for another one place rod, reel and lure covers are placed. After fishing: Remove rod, reel and lure covers Disassemble set up Place rod covers and rods into rod tube Place reel covers and reels into reel case Place lures in t-boxes. At home after fishing: Take out rods from rod tube and remove rod covers Clean blank, guides and reel seat, in case handles are dirty clean handles. Place rod covers after cleaning and into rod tube for storage, clean rod tube if needed. Take out reels from reel case and remove reel covers Clean reel and back of drags, in case of baitcasters loosen the tension knob cap. Place reels in their boxes In case reel case got dirty it gets cleaned Lures and terminal tackle used get cleaned, organized and back into the t-box. Yeah, obsesive compulsive behavior, but my stuff looks like out of the box and I like it that way.

What you feel and what you don 't feel are equally important, maintaining "contact" with your bait starts the moment the bait hits the water and starts to sink to the bottom. A common mistake is not paying attention to the bait as it sinks to the bottom, many strikes occurs while the bait sinks, so by "waiting to feel something" you are missing lots of strikes that atre taking place as the bait sinks. So what you don 't feel is the bait dragging the line as it sinks, when the bait "dissapears" from the end of the line ( when you don 't feel the bait dragging the line as it sinks ) set the hook.

That was it, Uncle Homer was the angler in that film, yes, it showed a bass englufing a bait and spitting it without getting hooked in the process.

the diving depth of a bait is inversly proportional to the line diameter regardless of what the material of the line is made of; in lame terms, the thinner the line ---> more diving depth; the catch is that we are used to think about lines in terms of tensile strenght, 10 lbs, 12 lbs, etc. we are not used to think about our line in terms of line diameter, so in between lines all rated for the same tensile strength there is variation in the diving depth of a crank whenever you change the line diameter, your bait won 't achieve the same depth if for example you are fishing with let 's say XL vs fishing with XT, XT is thicker than XL of the same test, how much difference between fishing with those lines ? --> inches. The difference between cranking with nylon vs cranking with fluoro assuming both lines are of the same diameter will be not in the diving depth the bait can achieve but in the sensitivity, fluoro transmits vibrations better than nylon and in certain circumstances and places that can be an advantage, with fluoro you can manuever better your crank through cover just because you feel it better than with nylon.

Fishing for those is in my "bucket list" ( things I have to do before I kick the bucket ).

Move to MacAllen, TX ? :-?