Raul

That would be one approach, but I insist, don 't let them see you by staying away from their line of sight. A couple of years ago I had to go to Mexico City and what the heck, Puebla is just an hour drive away and I knew there a beautiful pay to fish lake there so I asked my compadre to come with me. We arrived at the lake at about 9 in the morning just when they open it to the public, so we began fishing along the shoreline, caught some fish and moved, suddenly my compadre stopped walking and began casting religiously, I walked towards my compadre and being the water very clear I could see what my compadre was casting to, there they were a couple of what looked like 5 pounders, I told my compadre, that the fish were seeing him and under those circumstances they were going to be hard to catch. Well my compadre can be pretty stubborn which is a good and bad thing, on the bad side, things aren 't always your way and previous experiences have taught me that lesson, in spite of my recomendation he stayed where he was standing casting to the fish. I walked along moved about 20 yards ahead of his position proceeded to cast a 1/2 oz spinnerbait to where I saw the fish and before reeling in I hid behind a tree, I had barely retrieved a couple of yards when I caught the first fish ( one of the fish my compadre was trying to catch ), I released the fish ( didn 't have a scale to weight it but I 've caught numerous 4-5 lbers and I guesstimate the fish was somewhere in that range ), made a couple of more casts from the same position and by doing the same I caught the other fish.

You see them they see you. Kneeling down, moving back away from the water so the fish can 't see you a lot of times does wonders.

The reel is only one part of the system, many reels that people don 't think can cast a light lure can do it, with the right rod and the right line, granted you won 't cast very far a 1/8th oz bait with a medium heavy rod and 12 lb test line, same reel with 6 lbs test line on a L/ML rod will cast that same bait a lot farther.

My only beef with V hulls on the comfort side is that they are V hulls, that V narrowing towards the front of the boat makes them pretty uncomfortable to stand up >, but the problem can be solved easily by building a floor ( wood or aluminum ) to level inside the bottom. You can make it removable if you plan to cartop it. But V hulls do have a huge advantages over jon boats, they slice through the water ( instead of gliding over it ) so when the wind blows and the waves start to grow on height that 's a huge advantage, also, you can put a bigger outboard, as for when you ride, you can make sharp turns at speed ( something you can 't do with a jon boat or you end up on the bank or worse, the boat can tip over ), you can ride big waters on them too.

Well, it ain 't mine but it sure looks like my stack .... man, I need a bigger house ! :-?

The Pixy is king for casting light stuff, costing twice as much as a Sol and being an JDM import I say, it 's the kind of reel you purchase when: 1.- you 've got more money than brains ( like I ) 2.- when you 've already covered all your reel needs and got a bunch of them 3.- you don 't have anything else in what to spend your money. 4.- when you can shell out that kind of money in a reel that specialized The Sol, Chronarch 50 Mg, Curado 100D can cast a 1/8 oz weight with no problem.

The only true reason why I use different color lines is to distinguish which lb test the line is, since I have several reels I don 't always remember what 's inside them, since I don 't like sticking anything to my reels line color is my way of coding the line, if it 's clear then it 's 8 lb test, if it 's blue fluorescent then it is 10 lbs, if it 's moss green then it 's 12 lbs, if it is clear but looks like a rope then it 's 15 lbs. I think most of the times it makes no difference and if I think it 's going to impact on the bite then I tie a clear leader.

If I were you I would purchase at ***, I 'm in Mexico if I order on Monday my stuff is by Wednesday afternoon. Also, they have a shipping calculator ( which other places don 't have ) so you can know in real time what your shipping charges are going to be, you can update the cart and click on shipping charges all the times you want. Since they ship by FEDEX I recommend you check your shipping charges as you order items, because if you exceed the weight/size limitis the shipping charges jump dramatically, sometimes you order a bunch of stuff and you pay let 's say 27 dollars ( what I uasually pay ) but that extra bag of worms makes your shipping charges jump from 27 to 45 dollars, so as I fill my cart I use the calculator.

Is it dangerous to take a small boat on a big lake? It can be dangerous to take a small boat on a small lake if you don 't take precaution specially if you don 't know the lake. My everyday lake is small, a few hundred hectares and about 45 deep at it deepest part, it 's choked with submerged timber and you don 't even need a high wind to turn it into a roller coaster ride. The sumberged timber and the 2-4 ft waves can turn a ride in an experience not easy to forget.

Well, the more I see it the less I like it, I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder to me it looks ... like if someone stepped on a TDZ. :-?

The Chronarch is an absolute gem any way you put it, the Curado is a great value any way you put it, so if you want to fish with the best you can get for your money the 120 dollars difference is worth it, get the Chronarch, if you want not to spend too much but fish with a good quality reel then get the Curado. BTW, any decent baitcaster worth it 's weight in salt can cast 1/4 oz baits with no problem, 1/4 oz is anything but light.

No and they don 't need to be polished, all you need to do is to dry them with a paper shop towel. If the blade shows water stains then all you need to use is white vinegar and rub them, rinse and dry. Got spinnerbaits that are more than 20 years ols and they are still as shiny as new, cleaning spinnerbait blades is one of the chores I do at home after every trip as soon as I get home.

There are 2 videos that will teach you more than any book about bass behavior and biology: BigMouth and BigMouth Forever. Yup, they are old but the basics are the same 30 years ago than they are now.

For me deep water spinnerbaiting means having the right gear: 1.- Having a low gear ratio reel, for that purpose I use my trusty Curado B38 2.- Having a heavy spinnerbait, 1+ ounce 3.- Single or double willowleaf spinnerbait, if both blades are of the same size even better. The combination of spinnerbait weight, blade shape that doesn 't generate much lift when the blades rotate and a low gear ratio reel is the ticket to maintaing the spinnerbait really deep.

Well, inbreeding has finally gone over the edge ... don 't marry your cousin !

You "only" have 4 rods, I 'm a tackle junkie and I tell you, you really don 't need more rods right now. I would purchase the trailer.

Oh well, if you don 't like the newer HMGs then maybe this could be the answer: But they are far from $120.

I 'm pretty much like Roger, my rods are all purpose and the only thing that makes one rod "specialized" or dedicated is the power rating and what I tie to the other end of the line, so my jigging rod becomes my frog rod the moment I remove the jig and tie a frog.

Man, this man and I must be mind twins, cuz the more I read what he writes the more I see he thinks like me. Ok, let me add a little bit more salt grains. What I see is this tendency of many of the posters here is that emphasis they put on baits, the bait is a tool and it don 't perform miracles, you may have hundreds of baits ( like me ) but, like I said before: Learn to know your baits and learn to know your prey. Know your baits means know how each of them works, what are it 's strong points, what are their weak points and so forth, why ? cuz you gotta choose the right tool to do the right task. But the point is that the right task depends on where you are going to fish it and trhat depends on ----> LOCATION What I see, is this lacking of "situational awareness", it 's been said that 90% of the fish is in 10% of the water, problem is that most of the times you don 't know how to locate that 10 percent of the water that holds 90% of the fish because you don 't look with an analytical eye the surroundings, you are just there and what you see doesn 't tell you anything at all, you look and you don 't see. Let 's put an example, an example I 've used many times in this forum: In my neck of the woods certain tree species only grow in certain places. Willows in my neck of the woods only grow in wild form where the soil is moist year round and in the semidesertic climate I live that only happens in most cases either near a river or a creek channel. So when I go to a lake built on my countryside the first thing I look for are drowned willow trees because I know that: 1.- The river creek channel which is structural feature is right at the feet of those trees or not far away, it means that I can expect a change not only in the contour but also a change in the depth. 2.- The river or creek channel has a different botttom composition and for what I know and have seen that bottom composition will be a mix of sand, crushed rock and boulders which will not be present above the river/creek channel. So we have underwater: a drop, the river/creek bed, sudden change in depth, bottom composition depth, it doesn 't matter if it 's 10 ft deep or 30 ft deep, those elements will be there. Now let 's put another example, weeds, we don 't normally see weeds like lily pads in my neck of the woods, what we see is hornwort, elodea, hydrilla. I know that those aquatic plants can only grow as deep and the light penetrates, if the bottom contour was all flat then the weeds would cover it like a carpet, but also I know that those plants can only grow not only under ceratin circumstances of light penetration but also, they only grow where the bottom composition they prefer. Any change in the bottom composition or on the depth will cause the weeds to grow stunted or not grow at all. You see a weedbed, I study the weedbed looking for irregularities in the weed growth, because those irregularities tell me that there 's something different undernearth and that soemthing different is what I 'm looking for, a change in the structure or the structural elements because I know those changes attract the fish to it. Study the terrain above water level, what 's above water level is most likely to continue underwater, if it looks interesting above water level then it 's interesting underwater.

Does the 3" still have the seductive "Wiggle" when fished Wacky? Smaller versions do not always have the same wiggle larger versions have, smaller versions depending upon how they are rigged have a more tight higher frequency wiggle than a larger bait ( wacky rigged ), or very little wiggle at all ( weedless rigged ), yet, they are as seductive as larger versions. That is when it comes about wiggle, however smaller baits glide and dart more than larger baits. Does the 3" have basically the same characteristics/action in the water as the larger 5" version,or is there a specialized/different way this smaller bait needs to be presented? No, the action is different, not worse nor better than a larger bait and there 's no specialized/different way the bait needs to be presented to be effective. The same rigging and fishing methods you use with a larger bait can be used with a smaller bait. How is this smaller version on a dropshot setup? It works very well. What ways do you all fish the smaller 3" version and what presentation has been successful? Most of the times I weedless rig the bait without a sinker, other times I split shot rig it, other times I wacky rig them or d-shot rig them. The only problem I see with 3 inch stickbaits is that they catch about everything that swims, you catch tons of small bass ( 6 inchers and up ) with them. But I 'll have to say one thing in their favor, when you have an impatient 7 year old boy they work wonders keeping the boy busy catching one little fish after another, he doesn 't get bored.

12 ft long x 36" width is what I got, 5 inches doesn 't sopund like much but it 's world of difference, not only in weight carring capacity but also on stability, also doesn 't add up much to the boat weight and it can be cartopped easily by 2 persons, not that it can 't be done by you alone but 12 ft in length is still 12 ft in length.

Oh well, I 'm shhtrooong in The Force but not THAT strong !. So, with all this weather events ... me go play Call Of Duty Modern Warfare 2. Been playing Lego Batman all weekend with lil Raul and I neeed a shot of violence.

Now that 's funny !. ;D

Either you choose will be ok, the Exceler is not better than the Sahara nor the Sahara is better than the Exceler, I 've got a Sahara 2500FB and a Revros 2004 ( the only difference between the Revros and the Exceler is the spool or you can say the Revros is an Exceler with a shallow spool and different name ). So far the only difference ( other than the spool ) I 'm able to tell between both is the smoothness, the Sahara feels buttery smooth, the Revros feels silky smooth.

What type of rods dude ? trigger ( casting ) rods are slightly more powerful than spinning rods of the same action and same length, that of course if both rods are the same brand and line being just different types.