Raul

What "problem" ? I don 't see any problem there, it 's just like you like to purchase stuff, lots of it.

That particular reel from the picture is the super tuned version of the TDX, when that reel was offered it came in two versions, the super tuned got some extra goodies just for 10 dollars more, they ran for $210. You got it for 20 you had the deal of the decade. I used to own one and it 's a fantastic reel. On the other question, no Daiwa did not offer a mirror lefty of that reel, the lefty version is a gripping left reel.

After a while and being a few baits under ( a "few" .... yeah, right : ) following some simple steps you seldomly loose baits anymore, most importantly, you loose cranks: 1.- Get a lure retriever ( plug knocker or telescopic pole ), best 8-12 dollars you 'll ever spend. 2.- Check the condition of your line regularily while you are fishing, cut and retie as needed, which means that depending upon the conditions of cover and bottom composition can be many times in a day. Don 't be lazy. 3.- Tie good knots, the weakest spot in a line without abrassion is the knot. With those three you seldomly loose a lure. Other baits can be a little bit more difficult not to loose, spinnerbaits are almost unloosable, but the same doesn 't apply to other baits like jigs or worms, I think of them as a toll I 'm going to pay for fishing, a jig I pull from my T-box is a jig that very seldomly returns to the T-box, a sacrifial lamb for the Gods of fishing . Soft plastics ? oh well, I have a hate/love realatioship with certain baits, for example GYCB Senkos, yes, there are other similar baits like Dingers, but there are days that they don 't cut it, when I 'm not having the results I expect with them then it 's senkos and I know that I 'm not going too many fish out every bait but you gotta do what you gotta do.

First get a really large hook for rigging it, a 7/0 would be fine, the bait is very beefy and even though the hook pocket is very deep there 's still a lot of plastic to go through and a lot of plastic that chokes the gap of the hook when you set it on a fish. BTW, nope it 's not a soft plastic version of a Zara spook, it does walk the dog but don 't expect it to glide like a Spook. I have a pack and have used it a few ocassions with relatively good results ( lots of strikes but few fish caught ) but it has more to do with me not quite mastered it yet ( kinda like a mental thing, I got to remember that I 'm not fishing a bait with trebles dangling from it ).

Uhmmmmm, you can always go Japanese and get a Scorpion 1500XT, it 's the same speed of the Citica.

True, they may look alike but not the same as the original. There are some hard swimbaits that have a very subtle S type movement that it 's not easy to detect with the rod or not easy to see when you "swim" the bait close to you by pulling the rod but still on a normal cast the movement is there ( like the Gan Craft Jointed Claw ), not like a crankbait wobble.

Tom, some things to think about: 1.- The back is not what it used to be, nor the knees 2.- We got scorpions down here 3.- We got fire ants too I still don 't think I 'm going to "hunt" for worms in my garden, they are fine where they are. besides, the garden needs them.

Yeah, ole mr/mrs bass meet mr frying pan and mrs butter. Don 't see a problem in that either.

This makes a lot of sense, because I know I have caught bass with shad imitating baits when there were no shad in the body of water. So probably, if you know bass are keying on a certain forage, then it would probably be best to use something which imitates that forage. But if not, it just needs to look good to the bass? Again:your bait doesn 't need to imitate anything a bass has to eat at the place it lives it only has to imitate the movement pattern of something "alive" and an easy prey. The fish doesn 't have the intelectual capacity to differentiate friend from foe, it 's programed to respond to a series of stimuli in response to a pattern of movement.

Sensitive why ? Like in all sports ruled by an almost infinite number of variables there 's no guarantee with what will work best on a given time, so why it should be a sensitive subject ? I do not fish with live bait, not because of some sort of " lacking in glamour " sort of point of view, I know that live or artificial you first have to find the fish and then make the fish bite. I don 't fish with live baits for these practical reasons: 1.- In my neck of the woods there are no bait shops 2.- I 'm too lazy to "cultivate" bait 3.- No way I 'm going to dig my beautiful hard worked lawn and flowerbeds in search of worms 4.- I ain 't gonna run after roaches nor crickets to use them as bait 5.- Live in a warm climate like mine and your "live" bait quickly becomes purty darn fast stone cold dead bait. For the similar reason I gave up pork trailers. 6.- I 'm in no mood to baby sit live bait to keep it alive 7.- Shure, some will say, "you don 't need to purchase it", "you don 't need to cultivate it", "you don 't need to chase it", "you can catch it", hell, if I 'm gonna catch bait I better fish for it, it 's more fun than using it to fish for it, anybody here has tried to catch shiners with a rod and reel ? challenging and fun. So that brings up to another point, I 'm in the: " I don 't care how many or how big, all I care about is being there having fun" frequency, it 's been ages since I last cared how many or how big. All I know is that I 'm there from dawn to dusk doing .... nuthin other than fishing ( notice I didn 't say catching ).

Exactly, we can go further into the point Roger is making, speed not only means the speed at which you are retrieving the bait it also means the speed at which the bait sinks ( rate of fall ), in jig fishing not only the jig weight counts but also the type, size and form of the trailer counts, those three lements change the rate of fall of a jig, bigger, fatter, more appendages, curved appendages increase the water resistance thus reducing the rate of fall; smalle, thiner less apendages, straighter appendages have less water resistance so they don 't slow down the bait as much as the previously mentioned trailers. Very important point: how soon you have to be aware of what the bait is doing ? the moment it touches the water and begins to sink. why ? because bass tend to strike a jig as it falls and if you are not watching your line and paying attention to what the bait is doing you 'll miss a lot of fish, the better half of the times when you are jig fishing is you feel "nothing" ( you don 't feel the fish bite the bait ).

Let 's point out some points, starting from the end. 1.- You don 't "need" a baitcaster to fish jigs 2.- How come you came to the conclusion the fish are "not biting" ? in my experience the fish are always biting but not what you are offering them, that brings us to the point we have always discussed here, most anglers are bait/lure oriented and not location/presentation oriented, if they were location/presentation oriented instead of being bait/lure oriented they would be more succesful. When we talk location what imediately comes to mind is where, yup but that 's only one part of the location, where and at what depth. You can be at the right place but at the wrong depth so just being at the right place doesn 't guarantee good results. Also, you say they weren 't biting, are you shure about that ? let 's assume you are at the right place, fishing your jig at the right place, let 's go further, lestá ssume also that you are fishing with the right presentation, all the elements are there for a good bite except for one ----> practice, and I don 't mean you going out there casting jigs like mad all day long, seven days a week all year long, I mean your practice in detecting the bite. Jigs can be very frustrating and it takes months of practice in learning how the bite feels while fishing them. So it 's easy to blame the lure for not having the results we expect .... when we should be blaming ourselves for not knowing how to fish them properly, the first things we say is either the lure doesn 't work or the fish weren 't biting.

It 's not the reel.

Nope, the braking system is the same, the Scorpion has one more bearing, a lighter spool and the reel weights slightly less. If those features are worth the extra cost depends entirely on you.

I would LOVE a custom Pixy, with one of the two colors in the neighborhood of med-dark green, to be paired with a BCR802. Easy, get the Pixy, dissasemble it completely, send it to Calfish for a Killer paint job, while he 's painting it get the upgrade parts and once you have it back send it to DR for further customization. Not cheap but shure it will look reely nize.

Man, that 's too funny ! If it wasn 't true it wouldn 't be that funny.

I 'm a bass snob , I fish with spinning tackle as much as I do with BC tackle.

Yes they work, screw the "match the hatch" school of thought. Bass will hit any lure as long as you fish it in the right location with the right presentation no matter if it doesn 't imitate something a bass might find to eat where it lives.

Crakbait Yoda is ready to teech, grab the opportunity you must.

Learn the way of the crankbait, I must. Read Fish Chri 's crankbait threads you should.

The new Citica is a much better reel than the Curado B series is, performance/features like would be equivalent to the old Chronarch. So when you purchase a Citica you are no setting for less, you are setting for a lot more than you can imagine.

Does it come in hot pink? I 'm going to have it painted . Still unsure 'bout the color though. :-?

I 've got 3 Pixies, I 'm fattening the piggy bank for a PX68.

No.

Define "trout" lure. Guess what 's my most trout catchingest lure ever ------> Rat L-Trap ....... wait ! that 's a "bass" lure. Lures are lures meant to lure any predatory fish regardless of the species.