Raul

Man, I really like the finish of the Sol. , interesting taking in consideration that yellow"ish" is not a color I swear for. :-? Even though I have the Alphas Itö, the R Edition and the Type F I don 't like them as much as I like the Sol, they are just too plain, actually I bought them more for their performance and lightness than for their looks, I don 't see anything "special" about them, I still like more the Pixy.

There 's nothing interersting to look when looking at most of my reels, they are common run of the mill over the counter, I got them, everybody can have them, the only special reel I have ( 3 of them ) is this one, man, it 's really pretty:

Timber is not structure, it 's cover. Structure is the bottom contour. Speaking about bottom contour, sometimes you can see it, sometimes you can deduct how it must look like from looking at the contour of the terrain above water level, other times there are clues like certain species of trees ( knowing where they grow ) and aquatic plants, observation and what can you deduct from it tell you what 's underneath water level. Things like topo maps ( when available ) are great tools for finding structure, good electronics also help.

Anything under 5 pounds is a dink.

I thought it looked like something that.... oh, never mind, this is a family friendly forum... Raul, should I start pulling the tails off my grubs? I don 't know Nate, I 've cut the tail on some grubs and there 's a certain type of grub that moves the way these do ( fat bodied ), Kalin 's Lunker Grub sinks and glides like the tail less grub. Remove the tail and rig it backwards.

Well, normally I rig them backwards ( inserting the hook point by the pointy end ) and exiting the hook just about the neck ( where the round head meets the body ), then I cast it and let it sink to the bottom, I swear I parctically do nothing, the fish come and get it, the only action I can see coming out of the bait is that it glides sinking away from you, I tell you, them things catch bass like crazy, most of the times I hardly have to retrieve the bait, they hit it imediately after settleing on the bottom. I "discovered" them by accident, a friend of mine that sells factory seconds had a huge bag of those, I purchased a few just because they looked interesting, besides, I 've seen a video with Jun Shodi fishing a somewhat "similar" bait manufactured by BaitBreath, a good couple of months later I went out with a handful and tried them, grabbed one, rigged it, cast it and caught a fish on the first cast, well I was there standing with the WTH ! face, made another cast and wham! again, all day long I murdered the bass with those, needless to say that the next day I imediatley went with Juan and purchased the entire bag. I don 't know who manufactured the ones I have, I know that GYCB manufactures them for the JDM but you just can 't find them anywhere. So that 's why I 'm thinking about having molds made to pour my own.

The million dollar question that has no specific answer: which one works best when. The only topwater lure I won 't fish on choppy water is the Jitterbug, they simply won 't gurgle nicely on choppy water, other than that it 's more a matter of location and water clarity, for example, to fish on openings between patches of aquatic plants in clear water I prefer poppers/chuggers, why ? because I 'm fishing the opening and since they don 't move except when jerked I can keep the bait there longer; for more open water well, then it 's a Jitterbug/ Zara Spook/ Torpedo, for densly matted weeds then frogs and so on, that doesn 't mean that I fish a certain bait exclusively in a particular place/time/location because I would be lying. It really boils down to gut feeling.

In all it 's glory, the Tail Less Grub, man what a simplistic bait and yet it catches fish like crazy, go figure. Actually I 've been seriously thinking about having molds made in different sizes ( the originals are quite small ) so I can pour my own.

I 've got a 6 '6" MH paired to a Sahara 2500, man what a great budget combo, the day I broke it in I fished with it all day long and I swear I didn 't miss fishing with my other much more expensive set-ups even a little bit, actually I din 't use any of them at all.

No it doesn 't, a multipiece rod flexes the same as a one piece versio of the same rod, I know it because I have the same rod 1 piece and 2 piece and the two piece flexes the same as the 1 piece. A modern multipiece rod is not a one piece rod cut into multiple pieces, each section is designed and built to behave in a certain way so when the pieces are united they behave like 1 piece, also, in modern good quality multipiece rods the difference in sensitivity between a multipliece model and the 1 piece model is so tiny that you simply won 't be able to feel it.

Don 't worry much about blade colors, my favorite is gold, but I fish with silver, gold, copper and even painted blades; in theory silver blades for clear water, gold for murky/muddy water, however it 's not entirely true. When it comes to finishes it 's polished, painted and hammered/diamond, hammered and diamond have more flash than polished because it has more reflective surfaces, that 's the kind of finish I prefer when fishing poor visibility water. Colorado: maximum thumping vibration, maximum lift Indiana: less thumping vibration than Colorado, less lift Willow: a lot less thump, minumum lift, because of being so narrow the blade is great for fishing weedy cover. Now, forget about what you think it mimicks, it mimicks nothing, nothing in the water swims in a rotation maner. So that 's for single blades, but there are combinatios: Double colorado: twice as much vibration, even greater lift Double Indiana: idem Tandem: 1 Colorado/Indiana + 1 willow, it adds thumping vibration. Double willow: as the name implies, 2 willow blades, normally the one on the front is a size or couple of sizes smaller than the one in the back. More thump and even less lift. And there are even more variations with more blades. Now, which types you need ? to tell you the truth I fish mostly single Colorado and single Willow, ocasionally I tie double Colorado or Tandems, don 't tie Indiana blades because I don 't even have any.

By parts. 1.- I know them extremely well, been fishing Augertails since the 80 's 2.- The stories you hear are true, add me to those saying they are outstanding. 3.- What 's special: a) short body, very long tail ( a little bit more than half of the worm is tail b ) the C curve shape of the tail ath the beginning of it wiggles like the tail on a grub c ) the worm tail always tries to return to it 's shape when at rest so it whips back d ) the thin part of the tail is bouyant and very soft so it wiggles easily and stands up 4.- There 's no such thing as the best way to rig them for success, rig them anyway you want, given the case that your rig is the adequate one for those circumstances. 5.- I 've caught literally hundreds of fish with them throughout the years 6.- No they are not the same as Jelly Worms 7.- The big deal about them is that they work.

For the desciption I guess you are talking about the Improved Double Clinch, how good is that knot ? done properly very good, actually it 's the knot I do the most, but a good knot can go wrong if you do it wrongly, not lubed propely and pulling the long end instead of the tag end to tighten will weaken the line in an eyeblink because of the friction generated by rubbibg the line against the line when the wraps slide down to tighten.

The blank in the Lowrider is better than the blank in the Bucco, I would take the Lowrider.

Killer technique, but if somebody ever asks you didn 't hear it from me ok ?

Move away from the shallows and seek for them in the deeper water, a good place to start would be along where the weedbeds begin, the weeds grow only as deep as they can get enough sunlight and where they no longer grow it means there 's deeper water.

Worry no more and seek no more, MadMan went bust a few years ago so they are no longer available, the MadMan craw is identical to the Yum Crawbug, actually PRADCO purchase what was left of MadMan.

I was taught to rig them tail down, however I haven 't noticed any difference rigged tail up.

Man, I 'm confused, I don 't know if it 's Burley speaking or the BaitMonkey speaking after taking possesion of Burley 's body trying to convince me I need a Curado 50 ...... man I "need" another reel as much as I need a hole in the brain, of course, taking in consideration that I have purchased other reels and I haven 't even got the chance to break them in, they are still there NIB.

The problem has a lots less to do than what it can do vs what you want it to do, if you want to fish with heavy line ( 15+ lbs test ) and you don 't mind fishing with an arm length of line the reel will do it, but if you want more line then better look somewhere else because that spool is pretty shallow and there are no deeper spools available for that reel.

Man, Falcon makes some very good rods, so let 's suppose that the rod is the same Falcon Cara with micro guides , heck it 's the same good rod and that 's what it matters, micro guides, well it must have at least one more guide than the regular Cara or there would be line slap aganist the blank.

For that money ---> Shimano Clarus

Made in __________ <----- place here the name of whatever country you want, means just that, made in X country, made in X country = quality or the lack of ---> wrong. Workers build stuff with. 1.- whatever materials the company provides 2.- how they are told and taught to 3.- inspected by how they were instructed to inspect it And those three are given by the company management, they are the ones responsible for what comes out of the factory, not the workers. Besides, you think that a worker in country like China is going to do his job improperly and risk what he 's got when there are hundreds of people ready to take his job if he/she gets fired ? I don 't think so. Made in X country with poor materials and/or poor quality control and/or poor workmanship means bad quality no matter where it was made. Now on the subject of the reel ----> thanks but no thanks

What flex ? The rod is going to flesx what it has to and that depends of the power rating and action regardless of how many pieces the rods is.

He ain 't kidding ! bullfrogs do strike lures.