HeavyDluxe

I cartop a Wilderness Systems Ride 115 on a Toyota Corolla... There's no reason you can't do it on a Fit (not sure if it comes with racks standard or not) with a kit like this: http://www.seattlesportsco.com/car-top/block-kits/riversider-universal-kayak-carrier-kit.html Any shop that sells kayaks (EMS, Dicks, etc) will have these kits - and for way less than is on that site. You can invest more (roof racks, J-cradles, etc) but you don't need to... As far as boats go, there are TONS of fishing kayaks now that would easily support you and your bring-along gear. The Ride 115 that I have, for example, is dead stable for me and I'm just a little south of your weight. I even take our ten year-old riding on the bow with me from time to time and never think twice about bringing our four year-old guy in the same boat. I think the rated capacity is 450lbs. So, plenty. I also just paddled a stormy CT river in a regular, 12ft cruising kayak rated for less than my weight. Once you learn to keep your weight centered - which is admittedly harder when raring into hooksets - you can paddle and be 'safe' in nearly any boat within reason. The market has grown leaps and bounds since I bought my boat, so you'll have to shop... But you should have no problem finding a kayak that will easily get you on the water - even allowing you to stand if you're somewhat graceful with your balance. A couple notes: None of the big, modern, high-stability kayaks are water-burners. They are slow and tubby for their length. So, think about the kind of water you fish and set your expectations accordingly. Also, PADDLE AS MUCH AS YOU CAN BEFORE YOU BUY. There is nothing that will tell you more about what you like/don't like, what suits your comfort in terms of stability, etc more than actually putting your butt in the seat of a boat and paddling. There are demo days for kayak stores all over, so look for those. Or, find a bunch of local kayak anglers and ask if you can go with them. Most will have a spare boat you can use and will be happy to let you take a couple seconds in the seat of theirs. IF you must buy without paddling, I'd avoid the bargain brands (Pelican, anything from StuffMart, etc) and go with a recognized brand/model... It may not be perfect, and you might be missing a bargain. But, you'll not have MAJOR regrets, either.

How tall? I've REALLY liked the Hydro Flow series boxes. http://www.planomolding.com/fishing/stowawayr-utility-boxes/hydro-flo

Just to be clear: I'm not trying to imply that [insert brand's] baits are trash while [insert other brand's] baits do nothing but catch 5lbers. Rather I'm simply trying to get some tips and tricks to try with the unfortunately massive pile of stuff I have. Might as well experiment with things since my cup runneth over.

So, I made the mistake of trying to pull together my stockpile of fishing stuff in order to inventory it. On the plus side, I know what I have now and exactly where it is. On the downside, so does my bride and so the fishing budget is going to be more scrutinized going forward... I have a _lot_ of soft plastics I forgot about, and hard baits I've never fished... Some are brands/baits that I have confidence in, and others are budget copies (senko knock-offs, of example) or baits that I've bought but not fished before. Just got me thinking: I know that the way to build confidence in something is to fish it until you learn to catch stuff with it. But, I'm curious what tricks have you guys found that seem to help you maximize inexpensive/budget baits? I seem to recall, for example, a thread where someone talked about boiling their BPS soft plastics to soften them for better action in the water. I'd love to hear your ideas as things I (and hopefully others) can use as I weed through this stuff. PS - Yes, I know that the flea market is always an option, but I'm interested in actually trying to make the most of what I have on hand. Who doesn't like a challenge now and then?

This... A local, well-known-nationally self-defense shooting expert often says, "My handgun is what I use to fight my way to my rifle." If the argument is about what's best (9mm, 40SW, 45), the answer is 223 or 308. So, having a handgun as your primary weapon is always going to be an exercise in compromise. The idea behind the adoption of the 9mm is that: Modern bullets (and powders) are REALLY good and perform really well on target. So, the losses of using a smaller caliber bullets are somewhat offset by the bullet construction and hot loads (+P). Mag capacity is important, especially if you should ever be confronted by multiple assailants. Have more bangs is, in many cases, better than having fewer, more powerful bangs. YMMV, obviously... But I think that no one carrying a 9mm with decent capacity should be feeling like they are under-armed compared to someone with a small-form 1911.

Stay a week on Lake Bomoseen every summer (just over a week from now, in fact). Great body of water. There's a southern part of the lake is the creek channel... Shallow - except for the boat channel itself - very weedy. There's good pike and largemouth fishing down here, but there's a TON of traffic that you're constantly having to manage. Most of the docks are private marina types and, while legal to fish, get people up in arms. The main lake has two lobes... Both are gin clear (thanks to the zebra mussels, and more on that in a moment) and generally rocky. Naturally there are pockets of grass, but it tends to be mainly subsurface and thin. Great smallmouth fishery, along with numerous spots that will product largemouth, pike/pickerel, and more panfish or perch than you can eat. Water tends to stay fairly cool, so fishing is solidly active though there are warmer pockets where a more 'summer-y' pattern will likely rule the day. There's a bridge that runs across the lake as it thins to the north. Above that is slow water, warmer, weedier, shallower... Great pitching, flipping, punching, frog water for largemouth. The week I'm there, I spend most of the time handling fish for my kids and their cousins... But, when I get a chance to fish, I consistently get good, quality bites on almost everything I fish as long as I'm not being cavalier. FWIW, I mostly use: Green pumpkin or bluegill colored Siebert brush jigs with a matching craw Soft plastics - typically senkos and ikas - fished weightless and slow... almost dead-stick'd. Spinnerbaits, including large ones when I'm interested in trying to target pike. You'll have a great time... re: the Zebra Mussels -> Make sure to clear your livewells and clean your boat when exiting some of the waters up here. While I'm not one of these people who believe zebra mussels kill fisheries (the best lakes I fish are typically ones that have 'em), I do believe in trying to keep invasives out of native ecosystems. Protect the resources here by making sure your boat isn't used by any hitchhikers. https://vtinvasives.org/get-involved/slow-spread/clean-drain-dry

I've found most of the major brands (Booyah, Strike King, LiveTarget) to be about the same in terms of quality/performance. I get whatever's cheap or readily available. I really only care about bottom colors... I get a yellow-ish one, white, and black. I fish mainly the yellow and black (match the hatch, so to speak) and save the black for really dark mornings or nights.

Ok... sorry if I missed a thread. Just thought that it was worth letting people know or checking whether it was something on my side. Case closed - or, at least, pending resolution.

Don't know where this should be posted, so hoping the mods will kindly move if needed. I'm just curious... I love this site and am thankful for the community here. And that's why I wanted to see if anyone else is having slow page loads and dropped connections when loading new pages of content here lately. Not sure what's going on. (Begin nerdspeak) : It seems to be a latency/lag problem rather than something like a DNS or relay issue... though I am on Comcast who's been playing a little loose with bandwidth of late. Just wanted to raise the issue in case others are seeing things, too. I know the site owners would want to know, and I hadn't seen it discussed.

I think the issue is, sadly, that ICAST became such a phenomenon in the press and among the youtube anglers (who most of like to think are 'just guys' like us) that we no longer understand its purpose. That's what Glenn's getting at. There are TONS of outdoors shows where vendors will display and sell their wares to us (the consumers). However, ICAST is intended to be a time of vendors to make contacts, build relationships, and sell product to THEIR DEALERS. The whole purpose here is about the BUSINESS of angling which, of course, most of us aren't really a part of that. Glenn's point is that the more people are there just to gawk (like I would), the less space/time/resources the people running businesses that cater to fisherman - like Glenn's website, the rod/reel manufacturers, bait companies - have to make contacts that build their business. Again, this is a monster of their own creation, but that's what it is. As a person who works in the tech industry, I always want to go to CES to see new gadgets but that's not really the purpose of that event. I went one year (because I work for someplace that gives me an entry) and I quickly realized that, while I loved seeing all the toys, I was in the way of the business that was supposed to be happening there. I paid my dime, so I wasn't too upset and didn't stop... But, I also didn't go back.

Tevas, for me. One pair for water, the other for everything else I do in the summer.

One last thing to add here: Set your budget and timeline, and then buy the 'best' boat you can afford. If you're budget is $200, get a Walmart kayak... The SunDolphins (or whatever they are) aren't that stable and they track - that is, go straight when you paddle them - like crap. But, if that's all you can scrape together, it's going to be a better boat for you than no boat will ever be. But, if you can afford to spend $600, get the better boat. Don't skimp. Trust me that you'll regret it. At the end of last year, I bought a 'cheapie' kayak for the kids to paddle. I wish I'd saved the money and saved a little more into this spring and upgraded to something like the Pescador. While the cheap boat is fine/functional, there's enough annoyances with it that I'm regretting the purchase a bit and don't have the financial wherewithal to just buy something else. If you can wait and save, all the better. In the end, you can make just about anything work... I bought a Ride 115 for myself as our second kayak. The first was a SINK we picked up from LL Bean. Last summer on a fishing day with the kids, I put my oldest and youngest together on the Ride and I went back in the SINK. I grumbled thinking "It'll suck fishing out of the SINK, but we do things for the kids". And, while I prefer my Ride, I actually had a good day and was able to figure out ways to be effective and efficient in the SINK. I was also a lot faster moving spots and was able to cover more water more efficiently. So, get the best boat you can afford. IF you'll be happiest with ANYTHING, do that. But be prepared for compromises.

Just beware of the dam release schedule if you're paddling from further north (like Lebanon/WRJ) to Ascutney. Sumner Falls is along that stretch, and it's a beautiful smallie hotbed. But there' also some spots (toward the VT side of the bank) where you can get into trouble. Glad to see your paddle went well. I missed your original thread, but live just north of Wilgus and have thought of doing that float from Wilgus to Springfield with my son sometime.

Best bang for your buck, IMO: The Perception Pescador either in 10ft or 12ft. The Pescador is built on the same mold as older model Wilderness Systems Tarpon boats. The Tarpon is a GREAT all-around platform for fishing on flat water or even in current. It's fast, tracks well, and is plenty stable if you're a moderately-weighted and decently-balanced person. The longer boat is faster and tracks even better. The 10 footer is a good, portable starter boat. Plenty of people can stand in their Tarpons/Pescadors, though YMMV. But, for sheer value, it's the best deal out there IMHO. There are cheaper boats that will not have near the same speed/tracking, and more expensive boats that will not give you much more in terms of features for the increased price. If you want a more stable, slower fishing platform, the standard Ride 115 from WS is still, I think, one of the best fishing kayaks out there. It's untippably stable even for rotund guys (ask me how I know) and super comfortable. The new seat is a vast improvement, though I wish you could still get them with the OLD seat and save on cost. Again, there are competitive boats to the Ride that are very similar, but I'd buy the Ride again and again. Bottom line: These are solid bets if you're buy sight unseen. HOWEVER, the best thing you can do is find a deal and get into some of these boats to test them. You'll find things that feel very different about each of them and get to decide what YOU like. AND WHATEVER YOU DO, don't skimp on your PFD.

The same people who need a BMW... And I don't say that to sound snarky or flippant. For most people, the price difference is a luxury item. I get to work every day in a Toyota Corolla and I park next to a friend's Audi. His car's nicer, capable of going faster, rides quieter, etc etc. But we both get to work at the same time. That said, there are plenty of valid reasons you could choose to spend the extra money to get a nicer car. For example, this guy I know is a sales rep, is travelling constantly, and shuttling clients around. His Audi is much better for his purposes than my Toyota would be. In most (but not all) cases, a nicer rod is going to be better balanced, more consistent, more sensitive, etc. However, respectfully, you're not at a place as an angler where that difference is going to matter much. Just pick a rod from a reputable brand in your price range and go fishing. Give yourself a year of really getting after it. Then, start looking to upgrade if you think you need an upgrade. By then, you'll have figured out what you like/don't like about your current setup and have a sense of what difference increased sensitivity, etc will mean for you as an angler. At this point, dude, just get to fishin'.

Heh... It doesn't stop then. Trust me. Set your budget, get something in that price range, and go fishing... $60 is plenty to get a good enough rod to catch fish. People on here like to obsess about equipment, but you can be a productive angler with faaaar more modest stuff.

Abu Garcia has a couple rods (Veritas, Vengeance) in that price range that are decent. Berkeley's Lightning and Lightning Shock rods are perennial favorites.

@Siebert Outdoors posts on here and responds to messages, so your questions might be better addressed to him. The EnRAGED series of jigs, I believe, uses what Siebert calls a 'brush jig' head. If you look at it side by side with an Arky head, you'll notice a couple differences. The brush head is a little boxier, not quite as elongated and cone-shaped as an Arky head. It also is designed to sit on the bottom in such a way that the hook is angled more upright (bend up) where the arky head has the hook more horizontally (shank down, hook point up). I think there are a couple reasons for this: A brush jig is a little better suited for bottom presentations there the fish is looking down and sucking up the bait. The arky jig is a little better for dragging or moving presentations where the fish is coming from behind. Note: They both can work for both presentations, but one might be slightly better than the other. A brush jig, in that sense, is going to present any trailer in a more upright fashion. When I compare them in the water, a craw on the brush head seems to be pitched up with the claws waving in a defensive position. The Arky is flatter on the bottom more like it's crawling. I would guess that if you're pitching into structure (trees, root balls, etc), the vertical hook location in a brush jig would mean more vertical movement through the cover and a couple less snags. But, in weed and grass, the arky might come through better since the hook is lower. That's just a 'winging it' answer... Check this thread for more. When I was looking at jigs for the first time, I asked Mike from Siebert's and he recommended the brush head. So, that's what I've bought and what I've always used. I've had some Arky jigs that I've acquired through other means, too, and have caught fish on them. But, I don't have the same confidence in them that I have in the brush jigs. edit: I'd buy the heck out of those EnRAGED jigs at that price. But, I just ordered a bunch of other jigs from there a couple weeks ago.

Meh... sometimes. Jig fishing is a semi-slack line presentation. That is, there are times where you line is not completely tight back to the jig - particularly while you are letting it 'soak' on the bottom. When you're jig fishing (or using a Texas rig, or soft plastic, or any slack/semi-slack line presentation), you have to watch your line on the water. Sometimes the line will start to run away from you like the jig's suddenly sinking more, but you know it was already on the bottom. Sometimes the line will jump like something bumped it. Sometimes it'll shift left or right, or even go slack-er like the lure suddenly jumped closer to you of its own volition. These are all indications that a fish might've picked up the jig even though you didn't feel it. Set the hook. This is why jig fishing isn't really a 'cheap' way to bass fish... you're throwin' into cover and around structure, and you're setting the hook when things just don't seem right. Sometimes you're going to completely set the hook on a branch or snarl and have to give up the jig. But that's the cost you pay for throwing in there where the obese-grandmamas-who-smoke like to hang out. Other times, though, a jig bite will feel more normal. Other times it feels like you got whacked by a train and your rod gets almost snatched from your hands. It varies day to day, fish to fish... But, as a rule, it's a technique wherein you need to be paying attention to be successful.

It really holds up, too... Definitely worth a watch. One of my kids' new favorites.

It could just be that someone else was there with a kid who kept gut-hooking panfish with a worm and bobber. It could be post-spawn stress. Whatever it is, I don't think it's something to worry about unless the numbers climb.

Just one different perspective... The kid's attention span isn't going to magically increase on the boat. He's going to get bored and find some 'throwing rocks equivalent' or just be bored. Making it fun for the kid - even if that means letting them chunk rocks for a few - is the most important thing. As they grow, their tolerance for devoting more attention to fishing/techniques will too. Hope this doesn't sound too paternal as that's not my intent. But, I have to remind myself (with three small kids of my own fishing this year) that if I make them fish 'my way' I might turn them off to fishing unintentionally. Worms, crickets, small artificials. With a bobber. Panfish blitz bites are a ton of fun.

Have you heard the old story of the Princess and the Pea? (Not meaning to call you a princess, by the way.) Try to find someone who has the Walmart boat. Paddle it. Try to find someone with a 'nicer' boat. Paddle it, too. You may feel like, "Whoa! What a difference!" Or you may not. Get the best boat you can afford... If you can't afford one you like, believe me and the wisdom of age that you're better off saving longer to get one you like instead of 'wasting' any cash on one you know doesn't make you happy. But, if you can be happy with a $200 kayak, there's absolutely no shame in that. I have a WS Ride 115 (which was a pretty high-end boat when I bought it), but I have a couple cheap boats for the kids. They are VERY different in the water, but they all function.

I think we worry way too much about color... Sure, there are times when hot-pink-and-almond-butter lures are catching while someone with lowly green pumpkin isn't. But those times are exceedingly rare. Think of what the fish in your ponds likely eat: Sunfish, craws, maybe some shad? If you have colors that approximate some/all of those (with maybe lighter or darker variants for clear/muddy water), you should be all set. I have black-n-blue, a dark craw color, a lighter craw color (that also is 'perch-y'), and then a bluegill color. That seems to just about cover it for me. I think someone with just black-n-blue or green pumpkin is going to do just fine, too.

Let me offer this as a way to start... I buy these colors, and only these colors, every time. Every. Time.