Capt.Bob

again????? I would do a search, as this has been discussed many many times, you will find all the suggestions you want, enough to confuse you for years.

I use braid for everything, it don't matter what I fish from, the only thing I change is the leader for the type of fishing I am doing and the water I am using it in. flyfisher hit it but I only use 20 to 30 lbs test on baitcasting reels and 6 to 15lbs on spinning. My leaders can be 6' to 16' and fluorocarbon or mono just depends on what where and how, usually on the river I tie a 10 to 12' leader in the morning and it will last all day. Gives me the best of all worlds!!

I will have to go one farther than flyfisher and say,,,,I use braid on every reel I own, and even consider the Dacron backing on my fly reels as. I will also say every one of those outfits (over 30) get a leader of mono or fluorocarbon or as with the fly rods, flyline and then Fluoro or mono and depending on what where and how I am fishing.Once I setup an outfit, be it spin, or cast, I make sure every outfit I have is setup for proper use, for the tactic I bought it for, with BRAID. I fish lighter lures, get down quicker, and feel more than I ever did with mono or fluoro, and refill my reels every 2 to 5 YEARS!! During those years the only thing I replace is leaders, and every single one of them use a leader from 4lbs test to 130 lbs test, in ether fluoro or mono. I will turn the braid around on the spool after 1 to 2 or 2 1/2 years when it starts to get to raggedy and needs a few yards more yards of backing to fill it again from being trimmed and having leader changes. I always use leaders lighter than my braid, and this allows me to determine what breaks off and where. I will never loose all my braid. If I ever was going to get spooled it would be a simple matter to realize, I haven't stopped this fish yet, and it's time to grab the spool or thumb it to allow the leader to break off. One advantage of using a proper leader!! NEVER EVER LOOSE MY BRAID! I never use over 20 or 30lbs test braid 6-8 lbs mono dia. except on my frog heavy jig outfit that doubles as my light Pike Musky rod, and it has 50lbs test, and 832 Sufix is my preferred main line. I agree on my weightless rigs in the wind it is not good "if you keep the tip raised in the air over your head", but pretty simple to hold the rod down a few inches off the water and absolutely no affect from the wind and reap all the benefits from using it. The benny's are smaller diameter line and less weight to get down quicker especially in currents, and this allows me to rigg the same reel in calm water or fast water, and shallow or deep. plus I don't have to yank with all my might to set a hook, even with 50 to 100 yards of line out, but I also feel every little hump and transition of soft hard rock weed whatever. If your having trouble casting weightless get a Team Gold or Tournament Pro, it helped me!! The only other thing I have ever had to do special to use braid and get all it's benefits over mono or fluoro is use the proper rod for braid with treble baits, (crankbaits). I learned from all the years speed trolling miles and miles of Lake Erie with deep diving cranks, and to using shallow divers with mechanical release aids, was I had to depend on very moderate actions on my rods. This was easy to transfer to bass, walleye, and panfish on smaller water. Instead of 8' Downrigger or Trolling rods, I went to rods deliberately made for Crankbaits! When I throw cranks I run as light a line as possible 6 and 8 pound mono diameter and always on my St. Croix Cranckbait rods, and there are other makes, suite yourself! These rods have a much more forgiving Moderate action in Light, Medium, and Med Heavy Power, when properly used they really hold fish, and allow the use of braid with almost no fish being lost do to ripped out hooks. I have seen that with mono these rods miss more fish on the initial hookup, but not as much with braid, and once they are on using mono or braid, very few pull hooks out regardless of line. The one exception I have using Fast actions and heavt powers for crankbaits, is when I'm fishing for Pike and Musky, for the fishing I do I would only use Braid and Fast actions and Heavy power rods for all tactics. These fish attack with viscous aggression, and one thing on their mind, "ENGULF" for these fish, and I am targeting fish over 40", I only use Braid and 100lbs to 130lbs test custom made Fluoro leaders, but depend on the braid and the Fast Heavy action to set the trebles in their extremely bony and hard mouth or jaws, once they are set, there is very little chance coming loose, but you need enough power to penetrate there boney structure. Braid excels for this.

That would be a great idea if not already done. I recamend loosening that every time you open your reel up. Even if there is to much tension on the cap I would have it looked at, as that should be felt full time, not just at a certain point every revolution, if we are getting an accurate description of the problem??? I would certainly try it, but there seems to be an alignment problem. I have had an experience with a similar problem on a Curado, the brake pin assembly that holds the pin and is pressed onto the spool shaft, got cocked on the spool shaft, but it was a ticking noise, but I can see how that would rub the drum every time around on some reels. I simple seated it down tight on the spool and was one of the easiest fixes I have been blessed to find servicing reels. On the Okuma I am not familiar with there reel's as I have never serviced one, as they are not very popular around here.

I am pretty sure your pinion is ok, if there are any bur's around the engagement slot you would see them, a tech would be a good idea as you still need the pin out and a new pin in, and if there is any damage to the surface that rides inside the pinion or inside the pinion itself they would clean that up. Chalk it up as a learning experience??

could you have bent the spool shaft by reacting to the dropped side cover, did it start to slide out and cause to grab for it. Make sure there is no debris in the bearing socket, it doesn't take much a grain of sand a blade of grass anything, remove the bearing from the side cover and make sure the whole socket is clean. if you dropped the reel during this remove the spool and clean and check everything. I f not able to find the problem, have a local repair shop check it, or send it to a service shop.

4 and 5 pounders would be nice, but this early in this ponds life, this is about as good as it gets and what to expect for 1/2 of your catch, The most boring thing is the size of the water,,, just to easy to figure out, everything becomes repetition! Even the Lakes and rivers I fish don't have the ability to scratch the big itch from what I really miss,,,Lake Erie,, you have to keep moving around from lake to lake river to stream, the big Lake will spoil you after over 30 years of fishing it almost daily every season!

Jigs & tubes are go to's with soft plastics on the jig's I like grubs and craw's in clean water (which we haven't had most all spring and into summer) I like the wee teeny craw in slower water eddies and holes. but about all that has been mentioned here will work when they are cooperating!! Good Luck, fishing and with work!!!!!

If you look around you can find the Tournament Pro from Lew's for around $125.00 or their Tournament for around $100.00, either one of these reels are best bang for your buck candidates,,,,, and both have Magnetic and Centrifugal braking,,, If you are patient for $165.00 to $175.00, slightly more than your preferred budget you can get the Team Lew's Gold, and after 4 of them I can safely say, "you wont buy a better reel for twice that amount"!!! The Tournament was the reel that caused me to sell all my Shimanos and go all Lew's on low profile reels, I am even more convinced today, over two years later, this was the right move for me!! I think you can buy reels as good as Lew's,,,,they just seem to cost much more???

Yes the pinion gear is not fully engaging so any slight pressure on the spool or the thumb bar is enough to make the pinion slip. Don't use it till you get it repaired or you will cause more problems, I doubt the pinion is damaged if it just started doing it. This is why it is so important to use the proper tools for pin removal!! I highly recamend you don't listen to those that recamend altered tools to do this job!! I am almost certain if you would have had the proper pin removal tools, this would not happen. When we service reels we don't charge that much and it is one thing in fishing that is ridiculously cheap, and when done by a reputable shop,,,,,guaranteed!

Sounds like week yoke springs, or damaged spool shaft. I have seen both. I have had reels where someone has tried to service or change bearings and damaged the shaft surface around the pinion engagement pin, or bent or damaged the pin itself. I have also had reels come in that were missing one or both of their return springs, and on older reels and off brand reel's I have the seen week springs. The only other thing I would think could have happened is if it were assembled wrong, but that should have shown up right out of the box, but if you bought this reel used ,,,,, any or all of the above could be the problem. The only time I have seen over lubing affect engagement was in extreme cold, but there is always a first??

OK!! I agree, your right, lets move on. Anyway to the OP, I agree with others here I have both and the Extreme is without question a more sensitive rod, and will be an improvement, since I have both I will say that without scientific evidence, Hi Salenity is right on, the difference is amazing!!

What I was trying to relay when you started getting insulting, is maybe you have not been there and done that,,,,I have. I have an excellent rod builder that has been doing this for over 30 years and also worked in the industry for that long, I met him through another guide I worked with in the same marina I ran out of. He has gained much respect from many Captains and Guides in our marina. The point is I tried to tell you before after and still this rod is every bit as sensitive as the day it was new. I agree these brass shimmed add on balance kits balance,,,,but they don't make a rod MORE sensitive, and quite the contrary as a rule, any properly balanced rod will be more sensitive, 2 or 3 tenths of an once when done correctly is better, undetectable and with no loss of sensitivity. But if you would like to spend 20 bucks to send it back and have a new rod sent, you will have to continue to be subjective, and wonder how it could be so. If you sent a rod back and chose another, you obviously are settling for your second choice, instead of the one you really wanted. I suggest you spend $7.00 have a custom balanced rod and see if i am still subjective,,, I think it will save you some money and time, as it can be done while you wait!!!

That would have cost 4 times more than having them custom Balanced by a professional rod builder, this is done internally and never seen or changes, cost me $7.00 bucks and they are then perfect. Beats settling for something you didn't want in the beginning and paying 20 bucks or more just to return it!!! Been there, don't do that!! I have owned rods from almost every maker out there, and the ones I haven't I have used except 2 that I can think of, makes it real easy for me to determine the difference between subjective and convinced!!! each has their own likes and want's,,,,,and most are determined by cost!!! By the way I didn't come here for grammar lessons, as it is pretty obvious from your insults you understood!! I'm just here to talk fich'n!! Now maybe you would like to respond to the OP's post, or are you just here to insul others, we would love to hear your comments on the original question!!!! The new ones I don't own, and will say when you buy the lightest rods built they are touchier about the geaqr you balance them with!!! Or the smart thing is spend $7.00 and have it any way you want it!!! I love custom!!

LEW'S!! The Tournament is it's little sibling that has gained approval with it's quality for most all that have tried it!! Can't go wrong with any of their reels for the cost and quality you get.

You have a spinning rod and I would put a spinning reel on it. With that said I agree even a low end Shimano like a Sedona or Solace would be a good starter. I have to say the Ugly Stick would have to go for me, but is not your problem. It is a very durable rod but gives up a huge level of sensitivity to decent finesse rods and weighs much more. I am not saying they won't work and for anything more than soft finicky bights probably will work close to as good as a medium quality graphite. But for now I would definitely upgrade your outfit to one of the entry level Shimanos that have been mentioned in this thread, you can upgrade the rod when you want at a later date when your wants change!!! you will be glad you did!

I run 6lbs test braid (1 lbs mono dia.) and always use a leader on my panfish and all Ultra light rigs, I have used 8 lbs test mono leaders and never broke off on the braid always the mono. My ultra lights usually go 5 years between getting new line. When I am panfishing I am either using 4lbs test mono or in gin clear water,,,,Fluoro. Just the way I've done for about the last 20 years.

I haven't been to many lakes with the boat for about the last 3 weeks, we been gettin hammered with spoty strong storm almost every day. But a guy's gotta fish, so I been hitting a new 10 acre pond that was donated to the DNR 4 years ago when they put a new highway in. Since it's new and in my backyard 5 minuets away, I been relieving my stress there, and it is full of bass. The bass aren't big but with the lake being less than 5 years old the biggest ones are already 16" and tons around 13"-14". I been throwin weightless 4" and 5" finesse worms on 6 LBS line with my Legend Tournament 6'8" MXF and Tourny Pro Lew's, a nice light fun outfit with these little guy's. So far I would say 10 to 20 fish have been the norm every time out. and about 1/2 each time has been over 13". The last couple times out I been throwing the 7wt fly rod and using crickets and small mice on top (went to the cricket because I was missing a lot on the bigger mouse fly) or a small bunny strip leach streamer. It has been entertanining fo a couple weeks but enough is enough. I been wanting to get on my Small mouth bite on the rivers and streams but with 6" of rain the month already, it's just to mudded up to be worth it. So anyway getting kinda sick of this and need some bigger fish and a little more challenge. Next week is sipposed to start a drying trend and maybe a little cleaner water. I will be making some longer runs to some quality out of state lakes after the 4th if it doesn't. But just thought I'd let everyone know even an old kid has to do what hes gotta do to scratch an itch,,,,some things don't change.

The big ones will come when your on em at Erie!! Like Dwight said stay on em!!!

Send it to a service tech,,,,my guess would be the drag stack is not installed correctly and I would have to question if it isn't time to upgrade to a better reel. I am sure the more money you put in this reel the more you will loose on it when you do want to upgrade. I personally would spend the 25 to 40 bucks to help fund a new reel. That is the least I spend if I were going to keep it, because it would get a new carbon drag if I were going to bother servicing it. Then you would have to think about if you spent that much, wouldn't it make sense to upgrade the bearings,,,,,,,??????? Make it easy, buy a Lew's tournament around 95.00 to $100.00 or go first class and get the Tournament Pro around $125.00 and you are stylin, and no bass is going to be lost for lack of enough drag and you'll have reel that defines smoooooottthhhhh!!

need a lot more info,,,,what reel,,,,,what line and how is it fastened,,,,,has the reel ever been taken apart or serviced,,,,,how old is the reel,,,,,that is a start then someone can probably start to have an idea what other questions would need to be asked to figure it out,,,,,or if it is a good quality reel, send it to a service tech and have it checked out.

My favorite rigs for the river and small creek's is a 6' LF Loomis IMX with a 1000 stradic FJ, I run 10# test braid and 6' 6lbs or 8 lbs test fluoro leader. If I am in big fish rivers I like my 6'3" MXF St. Croix Legend Elite, with a 2500 Stradic FJ and 14 lbs test braid with the same leaders. When I( really want to have fun though I use my 9' 7wt St. Croix legend Ultra with my Redington AL 7/8 loaded with SA WF7F flyline and a 6 to 10 foot 6 lbs test fluoro leader,,,,,,,with wooly buggers, egg sucking leaches and crayfish patterns, early and late in calmer pools I like a grasshopper pattern on top!!!!! FUN,,FUN,,FUN,,,,

I would have to think it is user error, as this seems to be one person having this problem with a particular rod that everyone else seems to be having zero problems with. I would change the way I was using my equipment, if you are swinging fish in with the rod and breaking them or fighting fish at extreme angles like some do on TV,,,,,remember, theirs are free, and I have never seen a more irresponsible display of the use of fishing equipment as I have on some of the fishing shows on TV,,,,,,,,,does anyone believe TV is actually "reel world" ,,,,,pardon the stale pun!!!

I like 5.4:1 rears for hard pulling cranks and dragin big fish out of heavy salad, and 7.1:1 when I want fast retrieves for lighter pulling lures or when fishing long lines in open water with finesse baits to pickup line quickly, and When I want a reel for anything goes,,,,,,6.4:1,, this is the most versatile general purpose do everything gear ratio,,,,,,,,,,as .RM. said, it's your choice it is all personal preference!!!!!

What a rough way to salvage a fishing trip!!! We should all experience such spoils! Very Nice, Very Very Nice!!!!