Capt.Bob

Great casting reels but have reservations about their spinning, I have heard they have improved though. If you get one keep us informed!!

It is quite easy to learn how to use a freshwater rod properly to play a fish, we don't hog handle and run em down,,,,it's come to papa time usually, in time one can get the hang of it if he works at it a little bit.

Gill a couple fish and hang em in the water while bleeding, they will swarm if there near.

That was well said, I can only add that I could have never said it better,,,,,very good post Teal!!!!!! and so very very true!!!! Thanks to each and everyone that cared so much!!!!!!!

I don't know how many they buy or build, but Fly rods Spinning rods, casting rods, offshore, inshore, etc. etc. and the many models in each category, I think I am going to be very very conservative as I will be with the cost!!! Lets say they buy for 100,000 rods a year at minimum,,,,, so if they pay 1/3 rd of what custom rod builders do, 50 cents a ring, ( my builder pay's over $1.35 per ring for the best cork flor grade he can get and buys 1000 at a time) they average probably 10" on a full cork rod,,,,grip and for grip,,,, that takes 20 rings, this isn't counting gluing reaming and turning and assembling,,,,,all required on top of buying it. Granted they use trim pieces, (as do I where I can on custom rods) that are cheaper even on the best factory rods. so lets say just in material it cost 15 pieces X .50 that's $7.50 a rod if they build 100,000 rods a year it cost the $750,000.00 just for handles, if they can buy other materials and I can for 1/3rd that price that is a savings of $500,000.00 if it was only $1.00 a rod cheaper which I am positive it is more than that, they would still save $100,000.00 a year or one million in 10 years,, I assure you that you need to look and do some checking and reading on prices and availability of premium cork that isn't full of filler like most rods that you are referring to use. Just the rings for my handle and forgrip was over $20.00, that is just cork rings, then my builder will work his magic on them and I get to pay for that, but it will be nicer than the best factory grip, however I doubt my builder can get the quality of cork St. Croix uses in there Extreme and Elite lines, Fly rods or conventional!!! I don't know, but I do know how they build them and what they use for the best. I will assure the cork on cheap rods is going to have the same kind of cork, and I will assure you it wont be near the cost of cork on rods such as St Croix uses on Legend elite's or Legend Extreme's, I can tell the difference in my Avids and them, they really get cheaper on the imported rods. They buy rings usually 1 1/4" diameter and 1/2" thick, this is pretty standard. But I can buy rings that need filler much like a 100 or 130 rod even, for less than 1/3 what I pay for the best I can get, and I it doesn't mater if I want 1 of each kind or 1 million of each kind!! Most experienced rod builders know the very but of a rod is the least preferred place to start chopping weight, they would either have extremely tip heavy rods, overly long handles, or very heavy components building them ahead of the blank. Making a expensive rod cost wise,,,,a cheap rod performance wise!! I do know a 4" long 1 1/4" dia. peice of cork with a 1/4" hole in it that will have to be reamed larger and make it even lighter,,,,,weighs less than 1/10th of an oz!!!! This is an example of what they want you to think!!! These are all things that keep me building different rods ofter having dozens,,,, oh so much goes into a rod that make the difference between a great rod and one that looks and feels good, Function is everything and it's quest is endless!!!!!

Yep!! and as quality cork becomes more and more scarce,,,and the price rises, we are going to see fewer and fewer rods built with it. We every season see more and more new rod and models that use other or less materials to build there rods. For those like me that want nothing else,,,,better get em wile you can. The same thing happened with firearms. Walnut and other exotic wood was the once a standard material for quality Rifle and Hand Gun Stock's. Today manufacturers have brainwashed many into believing synthetics are better,,,,,,in some ways it is,,,,if you don't like to take care of your equipment, but to many that use wood and know how to take care of it, it still better than synthetics,,,, kinda like everything else, they cheapen stuff up using less expensive products to manufacture products,,,,raise the price,,,,,and we are brainwashed into believing it is all because it's better, while profits continue to increase, and stockholders smile,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I see, that sounds like a single issue, as that reel and all current Stradics use the same type bail, it may have been an isolated issue as you never here about them failing, and if it was common we would have all known it,,,,but that part of the Stradics is known for it's extreme reliability, and certainly would have nothing to do with making you think the frame or the rotor were at fault. 2500 size would be considered ultra light for any saltwater work for me. Most others, myself included would go to the 4000 size for Snook and Bull Reds!! Very reliable, I like I said, have till now stayed away just because I find the Aluminum framed Stradic smoother, but Hooligan a man who uses spinning a lot, has both and says the new C14+ is as smooth as the Sustain, with that in mind it makes it the smoothest out there under $500.00????? I may just find out myself. At any rate I am sure any current model Stradic would be hard to to upgrade from in a spinning ree for the OPl!!

X2 great stuff, I wouldn't even use it till I treated it, most rod bulders worth there salt sell it or can steer you to it, try Mud Hole I am pretty sure they sell it, or do a Google search for U40 cork sealer. I redo my cork every couple years.

Run it, if you open it up and have problems later, because of you or factory defects,,,,its on you. Once you screw with it is your baby and you have relieved the manufacture of any liability. Besides most reels worth their salt will perform just fine right out of the box, get used to your new reel then decide what to start throwing money at. Also if you don't use it before opening it up you have no idea if you wasted your money or time to begin with!!! Good Luck,,,,,enjoy

The 2500 is the same size spoolas the 3000, the 3000 is just cut deeper for the line capacity in the Shimano lineup anyway, my concern would be balancing the outfit, and weight wise there is no difference. On most 7' M rods it will require at least this size reel to balance it, my MHXF 7' with the 4000 size reel balanced great. If this different and there is an oz or more difference, see what balances best would be advice. If one of those two are your preference and balance isn't an issue, you just need to decide how much line capacity you want. I use the 3000 on Lake Erie and big reservoirs because I like to pay out 100 yards or so to drift riggs on the bottom for Walleye, sometimes you get big cats, drum, or other large fish and the capacity gives you enough to play the fish instead of pulling all lines in to chase them before you get spooled. Usually you can tire the fish enough to start gaining on him before this happens. But for most Bass fishing and cast and retrieve applications the 3000 is a waste of line. Just the way I use em,,,,,,,

The Stradic is designed engineered and manufactured by Shimano, for more years than most any other spinning reel at its price than any other, I would say they got something right,,,,,and I believe their popularity has always been at or near #1, not many can say that for over 20 years runn'n

Use em! I would never open a brand new reel before I fished it and new it had no issues,,,,,,if you do, you could own it. Opening a reel can void any factory warranty. Besides, chances are it will have you smiling from ear to ear just as it is out of the box,,,,,,again, unless it has issues, then I would want it made right by the manufacturer!!! Good luck enjoy your new tools!!!

I never was a fan of the Ci4, which one did you have. Even for a finesse reel I thought they were questionable. The Ci4+ though has sparked my interest.

Warm water and soft cloth is what I use and my rod builder suggest. The Q-tip is good but I every so often use a piece of nylon stocking to run around and thru my guides to check for crack or nick's, least wise the ones that use inserts in the guides, the recoils are wipe em, and forget em. The tip top and guides are easily replaced and very inexpensive to have fixed by any reputable rod builder.

Cabelas ,,,,,,,better or more durable than a Stradic,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Hmmm,,,,,,another first, like I've said before, this is the kind of information we can only pickup on the internet!!!!oh well?? I would suggest the Stradic, but only been using them for the past 20 or so years, for some reason mine work when most other models have problems. I was never a fan of the original Ci4, but the FJ and the Ci4+ would be on the top of my list if I was looking for a new Spinning reel, I think they are the best bang for your buck, and the FJ can be had off sale for $140.00 well below advertised retail, the Ci4+ is still new enough and in high enough demand they are still over $200.00 usually,,,,if you can find them in stock,,,,,a problem you probably will never have if you are after the Cabelas!!!!

Lews Super Duty,,,,,,,solid reel, power handle, solid gears, plenty of capacity, 7'6" H if really thick cover , 7'6" will give you a lot more leverage.

I also use Berkley Big Game and it gets the same treatment with no ill affect, I use the 1 lbs bulk spools and after 2 or 3 years still have no problems, like I say they are always in a tackle bag, boat compartment, bait bucket, whatever but always kept out of daylight. Never really worried about keep it air conditioned, been this way for 20 years I don't worry about my line on my reels as they are all 832 Sufix, before that Fireline, totally unaffected by heat, UV, water, you name it. But always start a day with new leaders 18" to 12' with my old drug around spools of Fluoro, or mono.

The BB1 and Pro are great crankbait reels, but the Tournament Pro is more suited to jigging and working plastics, and is easily found under $150.00 if you look around. The BB1 is great for 3/8 and heavier casting, but the TP shines under 3/8 oz and will satisfy most with the heavier riggs......

for your purpose I like 7.1:1 but for a rod that is for all round use I prefer the 6.4:1 for it's versatility. In reality I doubt many notice a big difference in 3" per turn of the handle, which is all there is with my Lew's bass size reels. But take advantage of it for burning Buzz baits, spinner baits, Rap's, and picking up slack in deep water, what little it is. For big Cranks I do prefer the 5.4:1 and fighting big fish in heavy cover!

I buy the filler spools of Seaguar Invisx and Abrazx for leaders material to my braid, it sits in my tackle bag, a bucket with seat, the back of the truck under the cap, you name it, below zero to 100 degrees, but still will last me 2 or 3 years and seems to be as strong and abrasion resistant as it was when I bought it,,,,,,but I always keep it out of any sunlight!! UV is your worst enemy. Never used P-Line but would do as Tiwithay suggested, if it isn't,,,,,, I would switch!

Whewwwww,,,,,,,I like my Lews as well as anyone, as I said they make better choices at this price point, but to be honest, the MG is one of the worst reel Lew's make for casting 1/8 oz anything, it is built all wrong for that!!! I'm sorry but I have owned and or service nearly every reel Lew's has made, Super Tuned several, and I own a highly Super Tuned Lew's Team Pro that has trouble casting a 1/8 oz jig much past 25 yards, 40 in the perfect wind maybe at my back and I do everything perfect on 20 832 Sufix, and this reel was built to cast light finesse rigs. I have to call bull when it smells like this!!! neither reel is capable of this performance and even tuned I doubt the Mg could do close to that with it's factory spool and other part's. The guy asked because he want honest facts to decide how to spend his money, not buy something and think he got a dud or is not capable of using something as others can,,,,,,,,lota this here,,,,,the facts are the Pro's have said the Tatula is not capable of much below 1/4 oz with any kind of consistent results!! Here are some Pro's reviews on the Diawa,,,,, http://anglingauthority.com/2013/11/daiwas-new-tatula-reel-product-review/,,,,,,,or http://www.tackletour.com/reviewdaiwatatula.html, I have never fished with one and personally don't care for the feel, I also think the Mg is the more dependable and better feeling bass reel, but would add 10 or 20 bucks and for around $125.00 get a Tournament NBS over the Mg, not so much for the braking although it is made for whatever braking system you want, even dual if you want to use both, but it has a much better spool for most bass fishing situations and improved line guide over the Mg, just the way they build them, and the Tatula has had some complain about the line guide system not being reliable!!! But 1/8 oz 40 yards,,,on Fluoro,,,,,stock,,,,,on the Mg,,,next time don't forget that 60 mph gale force wind you had at your back!!!!!!

Like I said, the Tournament is very close to the Tournament Pro, which is probably the most popular of the Lews series. The spool as you mentioned is one reason I suggest the Tournament over the MG, the Tournament uses the same spool as the Tournament Pro does, the lighter shallower drilled spool, which give much better performance with lures down to 1/4 oz and lighter as it has much better startup with lighter weight lures. The forged Duralumin gears and one ball bearing being the only difference besides the Carbon handle on the TP, from the Tournament that has dual braking. The Mg has the deeper spool that is harder to startup and needs more to get it rolling, no titanium line guide like the Tournament and Tournament Pro, Contrary to what your dealer said,,,it does come with the same handle as the Super duty it just isn't anodized,,,,,,Which is the only thing it has in common with the Super Duty!! The Super Duty has a larger frame, and larger spool than the the other three reels we are referring to, and a much more robust gear system, as said the anodized power handle same as the Mg only the Mg handle isn't anodized, and the Super duty has the titanium coated line guide same as the Tournament and Tournament Pro, and it has 11 bearings---same as the TP,,,the other two only use 10. So you see it has nothing in common with the Super Duty except the Handle,, and the Magnetic only cast control. The spool, frame, gears, line guide, and amount of bearings are all different.

Sorry RW,,,,,but I gotta believe that thousands would have just been spent a little sooner,,,with fewer regrets,,,,,,,

I am with flyfisher, for Bass and trout even Steelhead I'll take my 7wt over the 8wt any day, great for Largemouth and would be my pick for smallmouth. If I was doing a lot of Northern Pike fishing then I would think about a 8wt, but for freshwater the 7wt. would be my pick since you already have the 10wt it would be much more versatile. I personally have sold my 10 wt. as it is to much work anymore and I am slowly getting out of salmon Pike and Muskie fishing, more of a young mans game. I have downsized my arsenal for fly fishing to a 4wt, and a 7wt, takes care of anything I want to chase and still gives em a little room to get sassy!

I agree, my 7'MM Avid probably gets the most use for bass lures, but I am usually not throwing big deep diving cranks.