Unless you did not epoxy over all the thread and you have thread showing there is know need to put a second coat on, because all it does is add more football effects and more weight to your rod build.
The best way that I found to stop the ink from running due to epoxy is to first use a metallic pen or what ever works for you. After you have signed you blank just put a piece of clear tape over your writing and epoxy away, and you will never even see the tape.
I would bet that the damage was done by something other then a hook set and the rod was damaged even before it broke. That is a very strange place for a rod to break because the break is at the thickest and strongest part of the whole blank.
You should be fine with just using a sharp razor blade to cut the guides off the rod. Simply cut as much as you can of the guide wrap off and you should be good and just peel the epoxy off the guides. You can also do like in the video and use a heat gun on a low to mid power setting. On the grips you can just cut the EVA or Cork grips off there is not much chance to hurt the blank. When it comes to getting the reel seat off if it is metal or aluminum you can use heat and channel lock pliers and just heat and twist.
I don't have the Daiwa Tatula Elite Ehrler but I do love my Daiwa Tatula SV/TW and I have always used Shimano over Diawa but once you try the Daiwa Tatula you become a bit hooked on it. The Daiwa Tatula Elite Ehrler looks to be almost the same as the Tatula SV/TW and i think that you will love it and I use mine for everything from 1/8 oz and up and it is great for pitching and spinnerbait fishing.
I am looking a the Minnkota Power Drive controll type of motor and the standard foot control stearing type of motor which one has the best stearing control.
How much of a difference is there between the two a ( Mod/Fast tip and Extra Heavy Power) over a standard fast action tip with (Extra Heavy power.) as I. Needed for only flipping and forging but no punching in the 5 pound weeds.
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