WookieeJedi

I do not know why they work, just that they do. I rejoice in it.

Sometimes, you get the urge to use a more lightweight setup, that is usually cured by a 20+ crushing your jig 15 ft. from you and going straight under the boat.

I was thinking similarly. I would think there would be some gear ratio differences in the foot section as well.

x2 on Yellow Tail

With some colors, some fading and matte texture can make the colors pop a little more in the water. Some colors get toned down using the same method. Shad-colored baits will sometimes need this if they are really glossy. Once the finish is a little rough, you can take some small drops of red paint and rub them in for a really nice "battle-damaged" look. I like craw patterns to be a little rough, too. Especially the green ones.

I don't really like to mess with them. Just a little repainting, sanding, fading, trimming, modifying lips, dressing hooks, slicing soft plastic, adding rattles, changing rattles, removing rattles, changing or adding eyes, changing hardware, moving line ties, adding weight, or removing weight. Other than that, they are fine right out of the box.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontestpg6.html This is the best comparison I have yet seen. You can see that most brands fall below 90% on knot strength. I like flouro line, but I want to see some improvement in knot strength.

Joe Satriani

I love the Speed Craw, but it isn't as durable as the Rage Craw.

I have seen a lot of expensive rods meet their demise on a striper. I use Ugly Sticks on them. I have one 6'6" MH Ugly Stick Lite and a 7'6" ML inshore popping rod just for them. If one of them breaks, I'll be surprised, but not broke.

The Buffalo River is a good smallmouth river. I used to take extended float trips there. There are quite a few canoe rental outfits up there that will drop you off and pick you up. Crawfish crankbaits and grubs do the job there. Just find the big rocks in the water. The water ought to be up high enough in June to float just about any section you want.

The main problem I have with fishing shirts is the sleeve length. I wear a 38" sleeve, so if anyone knows which brand will fit me, it would be appreciated.

If there had been NFL players on the other boat, there would be a team of lawyers waiting at the boat ramp.

I had to repair the hull on my first rig. I had to take it off of the trailer and then flip it over to do the work right. Start by removing the motor, then move on to everything else that isn't bolted on. I used a couple of A-frames and several heavy yellow tow straps to get it off of the trailer, then to flip it, I just pushed it up on one side while a friend held another strap on the other side to keep it from slipping. A glass hull slides fairly easily on the nylon straps if you keep them flat. It was harder getting it flipped back upright after.

Wildbillb is correct. Depending on the rocker and beam of your canoe, even an inch or two can make a difference. You may want to replace the seat with a lower one before adding the swivel seats. You could make them pretty easily with some basic woodshop power tools. I have entertained the idea of lowering my fore and aft seats. All that time in the kayak has me wanting to ride as low as possible.

I voted Lake Erie. I can be at Fork in under 3 hours. I would rather try something different.

Maybe discount stores like Dollar General or Fred's? I'm not sure. Maybe Ebay. My grandfather loved those things.

I use the Red Cajun line on my bigger line, 20# and up. All of it is on two reels I use primarily for stripers. I want my line to have a little bit of stretch for those guys, and knot strength is critical. I do have one rig with some 12# I got on sale. It is very low-stretch and highly abrasion-resistant. The red line is awfully hard to see once it is in the water, I'm sure the clear stuff is as well.

I use Flouroclear. I used some straight FC, but the knot strength is not what I want it to be yet. If I was shopping FC again, knot strength would be the #1 consideration.

Learning how to catch them is easy. Finding them is another story.

In the Las Colinas area of Irving, there are some small lakes easily fished from shore, and they get very little pressure. I wouldn't dream of eating a fish out of there though. White Rock is another one you might try. Look around on Google maps at some local parks, I know a few of them have lakes.

I like the video, except for the jackfish! And tell your bro not to ever lean back in a canoe or kayak when going under any obstruction, even a bridge.

It seems to me that the spirit of this particular rule is to prohibit the use of the outboard for trolling purposes. If you get into legalism for a rule like this, then every angler is going to need to put down poles or anchor before making a cast. Doesn't sound like much fun, does it? As far as long-lining goes, I use the technique, and it takes time to do; and from what I can tell, time is a precious commodity when fishing a tournament. You need to be very confident that you are on the fish, and that they will take the lure using that presentation. At 10 minutes per cast, that gives you about 6 casts in an hour. It isn't an unfair advantage, it's a gamble.

Nice fish!

I start mine off on trout, with no bobber. They catch a lot of fish and learn to detect a strike. I can also do a whole fishing trip in under a couple of hours, so they don't get bored. When I want to get them on bass, especially when they are young, I put them on a slug. It is easy to cast, weedless, fairly easy to get out of branches, and nearly impossible to fish wrong. It will get bit, too, especially in the summer pattern when fish come up shallow early and late. Smalljaw67 is right on about the bettle spin, too. I still fish with them, don't judge me.