Traveler2586

Looks like you got the same trim-tab anode I do; man mine was a bear to get off, I thought I would break the bolt. IMHO, annual maintenance is fine, the big thing is to clean the contact points between the anode and the housing it's mounted to; if the contact point fails the system fails and your motor is unprotected. Remember, we're talking about a very slow but steady process that only takes place while the boat is in the water; it faster in saltwater, and slowest in freshwater. Here on the Chesapeake Bay, I've seen boats that are water kept with anode failure where the lower unit housing is eaten up from the inside out, the outside paint usually shows bubbling. I don't think any of us will see anything like that on our bass boats though; we're usually not in saltwater, and we usually don't water-board our boats.

X2 on keeping things in their place. I also did the clear plastic worm boxes for a long time and liked it; in fact over the years I used every type of worm storage system available, bags, books, boxes, trays, etc. My problem was I could never remember what brand worm I had where, and therefore had no idea what I was using at any given time. I tried labels of various types but nothing really worked for me. Also, I could not stack the boxes vertically, the soft baits didn't like it and would get out of shape. If there was some way of holding the baits flat in a box I would try it again. But today, some soft baits come in a clam shell to keep them flat so they stay true to form and function and probably would not take kindly to a box. It's all a personal choice thing; what works for someone in their type of fishing. I don't think there is any one better way, but we do have choices.

As Jeff reminded me, don't for get your trim tab as I did; my motor does not have a standard trim tab, just a flat plate just above the prop and I totally over looked it. Also, look at your trolling motor, some have a bolt on the vertical fin that is the anode; there's usually only one on a TM. Your anodes are in great shape

Tell us what you end up with and how well it's working for you in your fishing style.

Here's how I've been doing it lately. It's just some Duct Tape, a two hole punch, and two binder rings. Best part is you can keep your soft plastics in their original packages.

I just had a thought (and it hurt).... This may be a dumb question but does the anode have a threaded sleeve inside? That could account for no mounting hole above the anode.

I think you nailed it. Enjoy fishing; if it takes your bait, set the hook......

A quick search on-line and pulled this for you........ Checking electrolyte levels of non-sealed (with filler caps) wet batteries every three months is recommended. In hot climates, checking the electrolyte levels at least once a month during the summer is recommended. The plates need to be covered at all times to prevent sulfation and reduce the possibility of an internal battery explosion. For non-sealed wet car and small deep cycle batteries (less than 200 amp hours), allow the battery to cool to room temperature. Then add only distilled water to the level indicated by the battery manufacturer, UPPER LEVEL mark, or just to the bottom of the filler tubes (vent wells or splash barrels) as shown in the diagram below. For large deep cycle batteries, fill to within 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler tubes. Avoid overfilling, especially in hot weather, because the heat will cause the electrolyte to expand and overflow. Do not use tap water or water from residential Reverse Osmosis (RO) systems to refill batteries because it could contain chlorine, calcium or magnesium and produce calcium or magnesium sulfate crystals. These crystals can gradually fill the pores or coat the plates which will reduce the battery's capacity. State-of-Charge (SoC) readings will be inaccurate immediately after the addition of water, recharges or discharges. ELECTROLYTE FILL LEVELS FOR SMALL BATTERIES Less Than 200 AH [source: Exide]

X2, if your boat has a good multi-bank charger, and you've been using it, you should be OK. Have it load tested and the cells checked with a hydrometer; then just keep the water levels correct, the terminals clean & tight, and you should be good to go. I just changed out my cranking battery that had ten years service on it; I also changed out my deep cycles that had six years on them. I only changed the cranking battery because my alternator went bad; I changed the deep cycles just for good measure while I had the boat in the shop. Properly maintained your batteries could last longer. If they start loosing power too soon, then it's time for a change.

I thought the same thing, then while on vacation, I took a State Park yak class and loved it; what a great way to get close to nature. Now, when I'm on vacation, I'll rent a yak just to paddle around a tidal marsh; I haven't fished from one yet but plan to.

Ya, you are "Mr. Snakehead" Want to go fight with some Marines???

I just found this on Ken Penrod's Fishing Reports http://www.penrodsguides.com/fishingreport.htm and just had to share it with you all. What are they thinking !?!?!? "The Quantico Marine Base intends to stock Snakeheads in Buffalo Pond, on the base for study. This is a very stupid idea since they will allow public fishing. Call them at 703-432-6776 and tell them to train marines and leave the fishing to studies to qualified biologists. How many other waters will “Marine-Snakeheads” show up in?" Why would the Marine Base be interested in Snakeheads???????????

Congratulations Jspoone, nicely done. The down side of this time of year is my truck is now GREEN

It appears the mounting bolt #50 comes up from underneath and may be covered by the trim-tab plate. Could it be the bolt hole is plugged, maybe by a broken bolt?? If you can't get the anode remounted on the lower unit gear case, and the trim-tab is not a anode, you may need to run a stainless steel strap from your lower unit housing to the mounting bracket anode in order to have a good electrical connection. The pivot pin on the transom bracket will prevent proper protection of the lower unit by the brackets anode. If the trim-tab is a anode as I believe, then you should be OK as long as you look after its maintenance.

If I'm correct it should be part number 51 in the exploded parts view here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1997&hp=200&model=J200STLEUB&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Gearcase+-+Standard+Rotation+-+20+In.+Models From my readings, your motor was made for use in saltwater and as such should have an anode or two or three...... Check the transom mounting bracket (the midsection) for part number 33 here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1997&hp=200&model=J200STLEUB&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Midsection You can get a manual in PDF format (soft copy) for $9.95 here: http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/116879558--1992-2001-johnson-evinrude-65hp-

Thanks Whisperer, I have that PDF; they need to preform monthly feeding studies, throughout the infected area, for a couple years to get a decent picture of the SH feeding habits. But that takes time, resources, and money which I know the DNR is lacking. I would gladly volunteer my time if asked, after all I not doing anything useful now, I'm retired. BTW, how did you get your photo on the DNR's SH web page? I now think of you as "Mr. Snakehead"

It could be a redesign where they just abandoned the mounting site in favor of another elsewhere. What year and model Johnson? I'll look it up for you. Any photo's would help. Do you have an owners manual on the motor?

????

Negative Sam, all three jurisdictions on the Potomac (MD, VA, & PRFC) have ordered the fish dispatched on capture. Unfortunately, VA has confusing directions when they say it may be released, but then in the next sentence they say to dispatch the fish. I have talked to VA DG&IF about this - ".......................We are confused and perplexed by the amount of misinformation on our forum concerning the Northern Snakehead fish, and your own web page “Northern Snakehead - Frequently Asked Questions” that was last updated July 1, 2010 is confusing to many. Your page states: “Anglers are not required to report Snakeheads nor are they required to kill them if caught, but the Department asks that the fish be reported and killed if possible. However, if an angler wishes to keep a legally caught northern Snakehead, the fish must be killed to be in possession, and the angler must call the hotline and report the angler's last name, date of catch, location of catch and size.” [ The first sentence is the source of much confusion ]...................." The reply was "...........Of course we wish to contain the fish, but there is really no way that I know of (through regulation or code) to force anybody to kill something that was caught from public waters…(it was there, you caught it, how can we force you to kill it?). Where we can exert that effect is to mandate that if you keep it; it must be dead. (No live Snakeheads in possession). ...................." I have talked with two MD DNR Police officers separately that told me "if it's inside the gunnel's of your boat, you are in position"......"you catch it - you kill it".... If we don't work to control their numbers, they'll spread throughout the Bay and it's tribs (in truth, it's only a matter of time regardless of what is done). And truth be told, no one really knows the full extent of the impact the fish will have on the systems in the long term. The feedings studies reported failed to address the SH forage percentage by time of year, therefore all we can say is they (SH & LMB) feed on each others young. If anyone knows of any data (raw or otherwise) on feeding studies of the SH that gives forage percentages by time of year, please let me know; I keep looking but have failed to find anything.

They just bolt on. Very true. Some trolling Motors also have anodes in the form of a bolt on the motor housing.

It was a cold winter day, when an old man walked out onto a frozen lake, cut a hole in the ice, dropped in his fishing line and began waiting for a fish to bite. He was there for almost an hour without even a nibble when a young boy walked out onto the ice, cut a hole in the ice not too far from the old man and dropped in his fishing line. It only took about a minute and WHAM! a Largemouth Bass hit his hook and the boy pulled in the fish. The old man couldn't believe it but figured it was just luck. But, the boy dropped in his line and again within just a few minutes pulled in another one. This went on and on until finally the old man couldn't take it any more since he hadn't caught a thing all this time. He went to the boy and said, "Son, I've been here for over an hour without even a nibble. You have been here only a few minutes and have caught about half a dozen fish! How do you do it?" The boy responded, "Roo raf roo reep ra rums rrarm." "What was that?" the old man asked. Again the boy responded, "Roo raf roo reep ra rums rarrm." "Look," said the old man, "I can't understand a word you are saying." So, the boy spit into his hand and said, "You have to keep the worms warm!"

Anodes are mounted on an outboards lower unit, and sometimes on the lower edge of the outboards mounting bracket. referred to as Sacrificial Anodes, they are simply a disposable metal block attached to your boats underwater metal parts, that will sacrifice itself (corrode) first in order to prevent the important parts of your motor from corroding, such as your lower unit. For Example, if two dissimilar metals are touching underwater, such as a stainless drive shaft, bronze bearings, and the aluminum housing of the lower unit, a naturally occurring transfer of electricity carries through the water from one metal to the other and causes the more active (softer) of the two metals to corrode. A sacrificial anode secured to the aluminum housing of the lower unit is now the most active metal in the system and corrodes before the aluminum of the lower unit. When the anode reaches 40%-50% of its original size, it is replaced to continue the protection cycle. Sacrificial Anodes are commonly referred to as “a zinc”; however zinc is not the only anode type that protects underwater metals, aluminum and magnesium are also used; your outboards manufacturer will specify the proper material for a given environment. In order for the Anode to do its job it must be able to conduct the electrical current from the water into the metal housing it’s protecting; in our case the aluminum of the outboard’s lower unit. As the Anode preforms its duty it will begin to “pit” and form a crust of oxidation that appears dull grey in most cases. The pitting process is normal and indicates the anode is doing its job. In some applications where the water is stained or muddy, the anode will form a coating of silica from the water. These coatings (silica and/or oxidation) have an effect to insulate the anode and inhibit its ability to conduct efficiently. Therefore anodes require periodic inspection and maintenance. The electrical connection between the anode and the outboard can be easily checked using an Ohm Meter; there should be zero ohms between the anode and the mounting surface on the outboard. When maintenance is required, the anodes should be removed from the outboard and all surfaces’ cleaned to bear metal; the outboards mounting surface should be cleaned to bear metal also. Cleaning is accomplished by a vigorous buffing with a stiff wire brush until all oxidation or silica is removed, and bear metal is seen. (see photo’s) Never paint a sacrificial anode, or the surface it mounts to. There needs to be a solid physical electrical contact between the anode and the metal requiring protection. If there is a break in this electrical continuity, the protection stops, resulting in corrosion of the important outboard parts. Generally these are the rules for each body of water: Salt Water: Use Zinc Anodes. Brackish Water (Salt and Fresh mixed): Use Zinc Anodes. Fresh Water: Use Magnesium Anodes. Note: The fresher the water, the less electrical current is transferred, requiring the more active anode. Magnesium anodes are ideal for fresh waters, as they are both economical and highly effective. They have excellent properties for corrosion protection in the higher resistive fresh water environment. Bottom line, Anodes need to be clean and tight to efficiently do their job, so when preforming seasonal maintenance........ Don’t neglect your Anodes. Notice the mounting area is cleaner that the rest of the anode but still oxidized Before & after cleaning. Wire brush can be found in painting or wielding departments of hardware stores. Don't forget to clean the lower units mounting points. IMHO, annual maintenance is fine, the big thing is to clean the contact points between the anode and the housing it's mounted to; if the contact point fails the system fails and your motor is unprotected. Remember, we're talking about a very slow but steady process that only takes place while the boat is in the water; it's faster in saltwater, and slowest in freshwater. EDIT 04/20/2013 15:18 EST - Added two pic's to cover items I missed above. Thanks for the reminder Jeff. This is the Trolling Motor's anode on my MototGuide This is the Trim-Tab anode on my Merc. I don't have the common vertical fin, just a flat plate. This was a real bear to get off, I don't think its ever been off for maintenance; in fact it is so heavily covered with oxidation I could not get a meter reading, and the wire brush couldn't cut through it, I had to use 100 grit sandpaper.

Unfortunately, I probably would not be surprised from what I see boaters doing out on the Potomac. When I purchased my boat (used) I asked the gentleman why he was selling it, he replied he could no longer fish his club tournaments, running & gunning on the upper Chesapeake Bay, his back couldn't take it any longer. I'm not up on new boat technology, but what if anything are the boat manufactures doing to cushion the shocks to the spine from bench seats? I see pic's where they "look" very comfortable, but do they have any shock absorbers or similar technology built in these days?

It's 23:26 L and time for bed, how am I going to get this subject out of my head so I can sleep? I bet I know what I'm going to dream about tonight; luckily I know how to change channels.

Also, look up your PA Dept of Natural resources (or whatever they are called in PA) and contact their fisheries biologist. EDIT: I found this for you; they should be able to answer some questions for you. http://fishandboat.com/environ.htm