Tim Kelly

Thank you.

Thanks. I haven't been able to find a review on you tube that described the line from a users point of view. The limpness of the line is one of the main characteristics that makes a braid suitable for different purposes to me. I like a stiffer line when I'm fishing deep weeds as you have to throw a lot of slack into the initial pitch and soft line is more prone to tip wrapping, especially if there's a breeze. Soft lines are great when you want to cast a light bait as far as possible and will be keeping the line fairly taught.

Anyone?

For anyone who has used both types, is the maxquatro a similar stiffness to original or is it soft like most of the 8 strand braids and J braid x4?

I have mainly Daiwas with some shimanos and a couple of Abus. I prefer the daiwas overall, but found that they do require a little different casting stroke than the centrifugal braked reels. A slightly longer smoother casting stroke with less effort launches them perfectly where a shorter more powerful stroke which would work with the shimanos often leads to a backlash.

Bassmaster said they were the same price as the painted ones. Good business!

I imagine they are the same blanks, just a different build, and yet another hideous colour scheme! LOL

You need to either take guides off to allow you to slide a new locking collar on, or remove all the handle and re-build the handle. There isn't going to be a fix without surgery.

If the line's winding on unevenly it might very well be that the bail wire is bent. Bend it back into shape and see how that goes. If you can pick your nose, you can bend your bail wire.... (keep the theme going)

Is your prop bent and causing damage to the LU? Have you had the top of the motor checked to make sure the drive shaft to the LU is OK? Unlikely to be a bad run of LUs, check the constants.

I expect the mitchell 308 must have a very thick, or long reel foot. If you have a shimano or Daiwa reel compare the reel foot. If it's thick, then trimming the foot won't help you, if it's long, then you can trim it.

Have you tried it on the water, or just in the garage? It needs to be a little stiff or it will buck all over the place. I believe there is a tension adjustment screw which will help a little, but test it on the water before fiddling with it.

Utter nonsense as always. I've no idea how fly or casting reels ever got made as right retrieve as standard, but they did, so people learned to use them that way. I think that's about it, there's no more sense or logic to it than that. In more recent times that they've started offering the option of a left retrieve casting reel, those that weren't bought up reeling casting right have had the option to do it properly. I expect it makes almost no difference, and either way works if that's how you do it, but I do wonder sometimes when I see pro anglers who do everything possible to be efficient on the water, constantly swapping hands or contorting themselves to wind in a bit of line while the rod's in the wrong hand. It would just be so much simpler if they used left retrieve reels. My hand never moves on the rod whether I'm casting or retrieving, so I can't be in an awkward or unready position and can bring the lure out of the water at the end of the retrieve and roll it straight into the next cast in one fluid movement. Seems more efficient to me.

You could get some of that Winn tape and wrap it round to make a foregrip. If you have some rod building skills you could probably get a foam foregrip over the guides and if you built up the blank with masking tap arbours it would fit, but you'd have to do an epoxy ramp or something at the front of the grip to make it look neat.

Yep, and that's the internationally popular metric system. The regionally popular imperial system is 1/16 of a pound and the ounce is subdivided into 16 drams, so there is great accuracy to be had if you want to go there.

It's even funnier over here in Europe where rods are sold with lengths in feet (generally), or if they are sold with lengths in meters then they just the length in feet turned metric, rather than say a 2m or 2.5m rod. Same with the casting weights, they're given in grams, so you might typically get a 3.5 to 14g rating, which is 1/8 to 1/2oz, so again, the graduations are in fractions of an ounce translated into metric. Would all make perfect sense to Cheech and Chong.

Put a twist in the straps. Reduces the noise dramatically.

I was talking about the trailer, but it doesn't sound like the ideal boat for you. I expect you could improve things with some weight at the front, but I expect you're right to look to swap it for something more suitable when the opportunity arises.

Interesting. Sounds terrible, but interesting.

What on earth is going on with all these decimal fractions of a pound? Who decided that 16oz divisions weren't right and pounds should be decimalized to 10ths and 100ths of a pound? Makes no sense to me and it makes it much harder to compare weights of previous best fish to the current ones. Just a rant. Will it be long before feet are decimalized too?

Really, wow. How do you get any tongue weight? My trailer has a tipping cradle of rollers at the back and I can launch or recover from virtually no water, but the wheels are in the right place.

Thicker line and raising the rod tip as you watch the jig skip away from you. I find concentrating on making a good roll of the jig as I make the cast helps to send the jig out at the right trajectory too.

I think you need to go to a shop and try a few reels out. I can't see the zillion HD being a good swap for a Steez A. If you knew what you were buying a Steez A for, the Zillion or Tat TWS are a very different shaped reel.

Personally I wouldn't want a reel faster than around 7:1 for those apps. I'd get a Tatula SV in 6.3 or 7.3 and use it until the Steez is repaired, then see how you feel about the whole situation.

I'm intrigued to know what the stabilizing pin is more usually known as.