Tim Kelly

OK. thanks for that. That wasn't the way I understood it, even from wading through the "seminar" you linked. Glad they have finally caught up with the other manufacturers and I wish I had understood this a couple of weeks ago as I would have bought the 7ti I was offered at a great price!

As I said above, to use sonar chart live, you need a permanent internet link to get it to function, so data can be transferred to Navionics while you're on the water. Humminbird and Garmin with just create a map in the unit without any other complications.

Don't fill the hull with water unless you've exhausted every other option. Puts a huge amount of strain on the trailer and the hull adding all that weight!. Firstly, check the drain plug. If it's the screw in type, put a little silicone grease round the O ring and tighten it up really snug. If that doesn't help, then pay close attention to the livewell hose connections and the through hull connections. Do a process of elimination of the fittings. The least likely place for a new boat to be leaking is through the construction of the hull.

Yes, both Humminbird and Garmin offer this, even on their lower and mid priced units. The Lowrance system needs a permanent internet link, via your phone, to create maps as you drive around.

I don't know the answer to your question, but I was researching a new sonar unit, and had a chance to buy a Lowrance Elite TI at a great price, but passed on it as Lowrance's map drawing capability is pathetic. Such an unnecessarily complicated system to achieve what Humminbird and Garmin can do live and immediately on the unit. They really need to improve that part of their game.

I have a my wedge on my little motor. It was too long, so I cut it down to fit.

Getting there. The season opens next Saturday and it looks like I will just about be ready! A couple of bits needed to finish off the electrics box and the plate to mount the rear seat needs to arrive, but otherwise, it's done! Still need to take the plunge and buy a decent sonar for the rear, but I've spent enough for now, Will manage without for the first few weeks.

I think there are 4 pairs of rollers on a swinging cradle at the back. which allows shallow launching and recovery, then another couple of fixed rollers further forward. With all the extra weight I've added to the hull I hope the rollers don't cause a problem, I'm half thinking of changing the rear rollers on the cradle for bunks, just to spread the load a bit.

Got the decks fitted today. Not long now. Quite pleased with it so far, despite the adversities of a lack of appropriate materials!

Sensitivity is a blend of a good blank and a good build. You can have a fantastic blank and ruin it's advantages with too heavy a guide train.

Reels with line on them are usually rejected by the TSA. Hooks, I wouldn't. Bags of soft plastics, no problem.

I have a rod built on the Avid 7'6"ML and really like it for tubes and drop shot. From experience with other avid to SCV comparisons I would guess the SCV version to be significantly crisper, and a little more powerful feeling.

The avid series are a significant step up from the premiers. The Mojo bass rods are built on the same, or very similar blanks to the avid, so there are options if you like the avid blanks. The Avid x use smaller guides, which make the rod feel better than the standard sized guides. If you compared a standard Avid spinning rod with an Avid X of the same spec, the difference in sensitivity would be obvious. The SCV (legend) blanks are a real step up from the Avids, but at a significant price increase. Personally, I think it's worth spending the extra on spinning rods, or rods you use for finesse applications as that's where the extra sensitivity has most benefit, For casting rods that are fishing moving baits or heavier baits I think it's less worthwhile. I'm not a fan of the Loomis rods I've used, but many are, so you'll need to get an overview from them. I dislike the way most factory spinning rods are built, so prefer to make my own, but the casting rod builds are fine in any of the ranges, so choose the built you prefer.

No. But as a note, if you have one of the lighter gauge extension cords you ought not to use it coiled up as the coiling of the cord adds to the resistance.

Great picture.

What a great trip! Makes working the rest of the year seem worthwhile.

I seem to remember a "Have you got the kill switch connected guvnor?" too. ?

Beg your pardon, I didn't notice the thread title. Good luck with the search, that would be my dream rig.

A 16 or 17ft boat with a 150-200 rating isn't going to be easy to find. The nominal 17ft boats with a 150 rating are all closer to 18ft in reality and the boats rated for 200 are going to be 19fters. Colour choice on second hand boats, now you're getting fussy.

When I first read that I thought it said shards of meat. Now that would be a disaster! ?

Nice choice AJ. The 200hp motors have been a bit of a tough choice until now, especially on Brunswick boats where the choices are limited. The new V8s look very interesting. How does the weight compare to your Opti? The V6 200 is another interesting new choice. Famine to feast!

Got the last bits of construction done on the boat today! Cut the hatches in the front deck without any errors, big relief. Just need to cover them now and we're pretty much ready for the start of the fishing season on June 16th.

It would only take a few moments to remove the brake blocks and find out. I expect I'd know what would happen, but as you say, there must be method in DVT's madness.

I think removing the brake blocks completely would be a bold move. I've never felt the urge to do that.

!4ft? That's a whopper. Mines only 12ft, but it's a tight squeeze getting it in the garage.