smalljaw67

The Elite Tech Walleye is the rod you would want but if that is out of your price range I'd go with the HMG. I know a couple guys that use only high end rods that swear by the Elite Tech Walleye rods for fishing hair jigs and grubs, I was told the action is perfect for light wire hook but it has the backbone to deal with large fish. That said, I am a fan of Fenwick rods and the lowest model I like is the HMG, the handle is thinner than the previous model but it is also a touch lighter, if you are going with Fenwick and don't want to go past the $100 mark, the HMG is the way to go.

Technically they don't have the same flex, but what you want to know really can't be answered accurately. Every manufacturer is different as there isn't a true industry standard so it would depend on the rod. If all things were equal, the medium power, fast action would probably have a similar amount of forgiveness because it is a lighter power so it takes less force to make it bend but the mod-fast bends further down the blank providing extra cushion.

I'm a big fan of the Eye Surrenders, I have 3 pair. My first pair are gray lenses I got 8 years ago, yes they have been around for that long at least. My other 2 pairs are copper lenses and green lenses and the frames are awesome as is the optical quality. I had a pair of Maui Jim sunglasses, great glass for sure but they were heavy due to the glass lenses and after a few hours on they would hurt the bridge of my nose and my ears. The Costas I had 15 years ago were like the Maui Jim glasses, they were heavy but now they make a light weight plastic lens but I don't know what they are like. I can tell you that glass lenses offer the best optical quality but because of the weight they just aren't the most comfortable, especially in summer when sweating. That said, the Eye Surrenders are the best sunglasses I've tried under $100, and my buddy told me to get Strike King S11 polarized, well I tried his and I like my Eye Surrenders better, I have no scratches on any of my lenses, even the first pair I got and I use all 3 pairs, the only thing is now they changed the warranty, my first pair had a $10 lifetime replacement fee, the newer ones have a $20 replacement fee but at the rate they are holding up I doubt I'll have to use it.

They look good but they have a micro finesse jig that is just mislabeled. Micro finesse jigs are finesse jigs that are micro sized which usually refers to 1/32oz to 1/8oz. I know, I'm splitting hairs but I was expecting to see a micro finesse jig, not a full size Eakins type jig, 7/16oz is not micro.

I'm strange, I use two different rod for different reasons. For spinnerbaits I now use a 6'9" Heavy power Hammer rod, the heavy power is because Hammer rods all have a Mod-fast action so they fish as if a half power lighter. For swim jigs I use a 7'2" MH-XF casting rod, the main reason is because I'm typically throwing them into heavier cover and they have a stiffer weed guard and I don't use braid. So given that my line has some give, the stiffer rod really helps in my getting a solid hook set in cover especially with a heavy weed guard.

I also believe that a square bill and 5XD need different rods. That said, I'd look into a MH power with a mod-fast action, something in say a 7'4" length. The 7'4" length is a little bit longer than what I'd use with a square bill but will work with the 5XD just fine and the MH power is perfect for both. The mod-fast action favors the square bill more but for having one rod for a bait that typically runs 5' or less and another than runs 15' is going to a compromise. For my preference a square bill rod runs from 6'8" to 7'3" and is a MH power with a mod-fast action, while the deep diving baits that run less than 20' deep go from 7' to 7'10" and are MH power with moderate actions.

I use a lot of different material but when the water goes into the low 40s down to freezing I use bucktail. I sent you a PM with information on where I get my hair from and the brands that I like to use, I'd also recommend flat waxed nylon thread. I don't know how big or small you want to make your jigs but I use 210 denier for just about everything but if you end up with heavy collars on smaller jigs you may want to drop down to 140 denier.

To mix the strand colors is easy, it just depends on the colors and what you want. If I want to make a jig with 2.5 tabs of material and I want 2 colors like black and blue, well just take your tabs and cut them in half so instead of 2 tabs of 22 strands you now have 4 tabs of 11 strands. For the half tab, cut 5 strands off of a blue tab and 5 strands off of a black tab then take all your tabs and alternate them. If you are using bands for the skirts you'll take the half tab of blue and pair it with a half tab of black, then the 1/4 tab or 5 strands of blue, then for the top layer pair a half tab of black then blue then the 5 strands of black, now your strands will alternate color and be mixed together. I didn't know how to put it in words too well but I made it sound complicated but it really isn't, just imagine a full a tab of skirt material but instead of it being 1 color, one half is black and the other blue and the same for your second tab only when you put them together the black and blue are on opposite sides, simple but hard to put into words.

That cork issue happened early on with some of the Aetos rods and it was fixed but I imagine there are still some out there. The problem is that the cork is covering the lock nut on the reel seat, it is made in a way that it doesn't work well without the cork so it will eventually cause him problems, likely the first time he uses it as I'll bet just having it vibrate on the decok of a boat while running would be enough for it to come off, once that cork begins to crumble you can't fix it.

It depends on the manufacturer since there is no real industry standard. Falcon rods are spot on with their specs, if it says 1/8oz to 1/2oz you may be able to lob cast 5/8oz but that is as far as I'd push it. I have a Hammer rod in a heavy power rated to 1oz but I've thrown 1.25oz and could probably do 1.5oz but most rods you'll feel how the rod begins to strain when getting to the upper limit. That said, most rods can safely cast a little over the projected max weight but not much, this is something you have to feel in the rod but be careful, as I said some rods are fine but others are right on the mark, 1/8oz is what I'd consider the safe amount over, 1/4oz is doable, and after that you are asking for your rod tip to break.

I had a CR721 GLX, it is no longer made as you can only get it in the IMX now. I used it for fishing small finesse plastics, the short length made it perfect for underhand or roll casting up under overhanging trees. I loved taking a 4.5" Slug-O and cutting it down to 3.25", the 3" wasn't on the market yet, then fishing it on a 1/8oz ball head jig and I like doing the same thing with a trick worm, it was a different action than the T-rig. The rod was perfect for that close quarters finesse fishing and I think it would make a great BFS rod.

The one time I had to use the warranty I called customer service. What I was told to do was email a picture of the broken area of the rod(reel seat), a picture that showed the model number and specs, and a picture of the original receipt. When I did that I called back like 45 minutes later and they confirmed they got everything and all I had to pay was $9.98 or something close to that and my new rod arrived in 5 days. They didn't make me ship the old rod back so it saved me money and time.

If you ever wanted to fish a lipless crank with a bill there is one you could try. The Bomber Flat A and the Deep Flat A, it is a killer cold water crank and the best part is there aren't many that still use it.

Size #2 for most baits and oval split rings are for line ties only.

I like a Zoom Super Chunk Jr.

Like Bluebasser, I make my own and 1/8oz is my main weight but in cold water under 5o degrees I'll go to a 1/16oz.

I fish the 5" Senko T-rigged weightless most of the time. Wacky rigging is what I do with more finesse baits like the 4" slender Senko and the 3" Senko.

You still might be able to find the G.Loomis Bronzeback 811S-SP at American Legacy for $165.75. I like the Avid X too but I mention the Bronzeback because it is a great deal and that rod is perfect length and action for what you are looking to do. It is listed as a light power but that is in that series, I'd say it is a medium light, 1/8oz to 5/16oz and it has a nice tip with a good amount of backbone. I haven't had it on the water yet but based on other rods I've used I can tell you it is a true multi purpose stick.

Buy the tabs separately and make your own skirts to go on your jigs. If you go to fishing skirts or TW you can buy a skirt making kit for like $26, it will have I believe 10 tabs of each color and 10 different colors so you get 100 tabs plus bands and a skirt making tool with a box to keep the stuff in. As for how many tabs to put on your jig, well there is no right or wrong but I go by the type and size jig. For example, if I'm making 1/2oz flipping jigs, well I like to have 2 and a half tabs which comes to 55 strands, if I'm making a 1/4oz finesse jig I may use 2 tabs or maybe even 1 and a half tabs if that is going to be a clear water jig. The important thing is to have fun with it and be creative.

I think paint actually helps with certain conditions. I know when the one river I fish gets a heavy stain or muddy, a black grub fished on a chartreuse or blaze orange jig head will out produce a plain jig head every day of the week. The same thing when the water is low and clear, a green pumpkin, brown, or black jig head will get more bites than a plain jig as we have experienced. I find that it seems to matter more for smallmouth than it does for largemouth but even when catching them on a plain shaky head, I still have more confidence in that colored one and confidence will help you catch more fish.

Jeff H, never said they were inferior, I said they have been passed by others in the workhorse segment. I'll give you an example, the Daiwa Exceler has been redesigned and is a good solid reel at its price point, but Lews has the LFS Speed spool at the same price, it has close to double the bearing count and weighs almost a full ounce lighter and is as reliable with better performance. This is typical of Daiwa in the mid tier segment and you can go to every other manufacturer and find a reel that has better or more features, weighs less and performs as well with the same reliability as the competing Daiwa product up until you hit the $250-$270 price point, that is when Daiwa takes over. Make no mistake, Daiwa makes a well built product but they are behind when it comes to the workhorse reels.

The Shock is made specifically for braid, that is why they all have moderate actions.

I'm telling you guys, that SM Killer is by far the best finesse worm I ever used! I use them on a shaky head and a simple ball head jig but I've also had a lot of success with them on a drop shot last summer, my buddy calls it the "Skunk Killer" since we've had days were that was the only thing we would get bit on.

I have an old Quantum Kinetic (silver model) that is still going, it is 10 years old and is used hard. I also have an older Catalyst (orange model) that is 8 years old and is a good reel but the 1st generation Smoke 150 is, IMO, the best casting reel Quantum made. Now, I never had bad problems with any brand casting reel but if I were you I'd return the Energy and get your money back and get something different or try a new one, it may have been a reel with no lubrication or too much lube, Lews over lubes their reels. I say this with no offense to Daiwa guys, Daiwa makes a great high end reel, probably the best but the Fuego is a brick, it is a full ounce heavier than the Quantum and it can be as smooth as butter, that weight is unacceptable. My biggest problem is Daiwa is the only manufacturer that can't make a sub 7 ounce reel for under $270, and while weight may not be an issue for some, I can tell you that after using reels 7oz and below for any period of time and then picking up an 8oz reel, you will notice it big time. I'm so use to light weight reels that even the old Kinetic and Catalyst have been put on the back burner and they are 7.5oz and that is still heavy for a casting reel. Lews, and Pflueger make solid aluminum frame casting reels under $200 that are light, dependable and perform at the same level if not out perform every Daiwa in the same price range. As I said, Daiwa makes the best high end reels available but just about every other manufacturer has passed them by when it comes to the workhorse models, $100 to $200 price point.

If you go to FFO they have a Berkley AMP 6'6" M-MF rated 1/4oz to 3/4oz for $19.00. That maybe a little shorter than what you want but it will actually be a good length as an all purpose cranking rod since you intend to use jerkbaits and square bills. The other rod in your price range is the Berkley Lightning rod Shock, it has a moderate action and is a decent build for the price. If you want to creep up to $80, the Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 Winch cranking rods or a Berkley E-Motion, either one will be a good buy.