smalljaw67

I'm posting a link to a video I did with a little larger jig. It is a 1/4oz football head with a 1/0 Owner 5304 deep throat jig hook. The 1/8oz is the same jig just a little smaller, I will use the 1/4oz if there is some stain on the water. The Netbait tiny Paca chunk works well on both jigs.

I don't have a pic, sorry. What I'm doing with that size jig is fishing gin clear shallow water. River smallmouth mostly but right now the local lakes have a winter draw down. Falling water and fishing pressure have the fish spooky, that small jig dragged over a shallow rock flat will get bit 10 to 1 over a traditional size jig and it isn't just small fish either. It works similar to a Ned rig but it will usually get bigger bites, and if the jig don't work then I go with a Ned rig.

It is just "smalljaw", simple.

I wire tie some and thread tie a lot and even have a YouTube channel with tying tutorials. A whip finish will serve you well and holds well but I really recommend using super glue or Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails clear nail polish to coat the thread. Most jigs don't make it long enough for anything to happen but jigs with finesse style skirts or hair jigs that have exposed collars can end up with damaged thread. It isn't expensive and takes a second to apply, if you are going to go the extra mile to tie your jigs instead of a rubber collar, then why not take a second to protect the thread and insure it won't get damaged and come apart.

The 5304 is a wicked hook, it penetrates easily and really holds well. I make a finesse football jig in 1/8oz with a #1 5304 that I have to order direct from Owner since most vendors don't carry that small size. Also the number is 5304, the number 5102 is a lure parts online SKU, I'm letting you know because if you look for that hook in other places you won't find a 5102. Barlow's actually sells that hook at a better price but if you only want to get less than 25 you have to use LPO. The last thing is the 5304 is a 2X strong hook but it is thinner diameter than the 32786. So if you get those hooks don't be fooled into thinking it isn't as strong as the 32786.

Do whatever makes you happy. The airbrush allows for detail but you also have to have a primer coat and then heat set each color before adding the next. If you are only doing a small amount of jigs and only have 1 airbrush it can become a pain as you have to clear and clean the airbrush every time you change colors. So it comes down to the fact of how much time and effort do you want to put into your jigs. There is nothing wrong if you want to make something a little more detailed regardless if it makes no difference to the fish. Just remember, doing a detailed paint job is more work but it can be more rewarding if you like doing that and want your jigs to be more detailed. Now if you just want a simple paint job and you are trying to decide on powder or airbrush well that kind of thing is a no brainer. Powder is by far faster as it is 1 coat coverage and when cured in an oven is a lot tougher and will hold up better than airbrush paint. The choice is up to you and what you want to do.

The only time I've had the bill separate was slapping the bait against the water to clear weeds, something I no longer do. I had a bill crack pretty bad after I wedged in rip rap but both baits I sent back to Rapala and received a replacement. If you truly want your heart broken fish a Megabass Flap Slap or Vision 110 around a rock, or anything harder than a blade of grass.

The only time I miss fish on a jerkbait is when they are just nipping the rear hook.

I like the Netbait Paca chunk in the regular size and tiny, really good trailers. I also like the Yum chunk in the 2.75" size and the Zoom Super Chunk Jr. and I'm really starting to like the Berkley Powerbait Meaty Chunk in the 2.75 size.

The Bagley Rattlin' Honey B and the Bomber Square A are both killers for me, especially post spawn and fall transition aka now!!!! During the summer I often use a discontinued Sebile Crankster 50, it is a small 1/4 shallow cranks that is close to a small wake bait. That bait along with the Yo-Zuri 3DS wake and 3DS flat cranks are what I usually try when fish are active but just following larger baits.

That is an old Rebel Humpback in the "Camel Joe" novelty pattern. I got one in the early 90s as a gag gift and tied it on as a joke. It turned out to be one of my better river smallmouth cranks.

The bottom one is a Bomber Waterdog. Hellbenders only have 2 segments and a heart shaped diving lip. The Bomber Waterdog has the round lip with 3 segments.

Not bad, a good first effort for hard baits. For painting just remove the split rings and hooks and mask the hook hangers, much easier. Use on of these to hold the bait to paint, just remove the magnifying glass - https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html?_br_psugg_q=helping+hands Also, don't just use any old piece of wood, especially for a topwater, Balsa works well and you can buy pre made crankbait bills or purchase circuit board or Lexan sheets and make them yourself but a Plano divider isn't ideal as you have discovered.

I use it like a crankbait but not fast. I make my own and have found that a small 1/8oz works well when I swim it using a small swimbait like a Keitech 3.8 as the trailer. Most of the time I use 1/2oz with a sweet beaver trailer and I reel fast enough to maintain bottom contact. Bites are different that you'd expect, I've had maybe a dozen bites over the last few years that I've felt, most of the time I'm reeling and the rod begins to load up and I just lean back to drive the hook all the way in.

Losing fish on topwater baits happens even with the best hooks. If he lost the fish because the hook bent straight that is a different story but if he just lost it then it is a missed fish. Bass don't always get the bait really well and if you use braid for topwater a lot of times you end up pulling the bait away a split second too fast. What then happens is you only "skin hook" the fish and one or two head shakes or a jump and it is gone. I'll echo what primetime just told you, and that is stay with the same size hook as some topwaters will lose action if you add a little extra weight from going with a heavier hook or a larger size. I have a half dozen of the Rattling Chug Bugs, they are fantastic topwater baits and the first popper I ever used that walked the dog without me even trying.

For me I often do better with the Luck-E-Strike RC STX jerkbait over the regular Megabass Vision 110. It is a direct copy and I have a few original Vision 110s that I paid $25 for each one. I think the main reason I do better is I'm using jerkbaits around rocks mostly, the 110s have thin bills which break surprisingly easy so I tend to throw them when I'm in more open water.

Owner ST-36 for size #6 hooks because those are usually smaller and a heavier hook could affect the action. Walking baits in the 1/2oz to 3/4oz range get Mustad KVD 1X strong 2X short shank trebles. I like the way EWG style hooks hold when you hook up, I started using them on topwater baits and lipless cranks a good many years ago. I tried them and the number of fish I was landing versus throwing the bait was noticeable. Last year I added VMC Hybrid short 1X treble to a super spook and super spook Jr. and so far I really like them. I have only used those two baits on 5 outings since I put those hooks on but so far they seem great, hook as well as a round bend and so far they seem to hold like the triple grip. I need more time with them but I am buying more over the winter as they seem to be a great alternative to the EWG style.

If I have wind or stained water then I'm throwing the spinnerbait. You also need to realize there is trial and error involved here as well. If the water is clear but I'm seeing swirls or minnows breaking the surface I'm going with a spinnerbait wind or no wind. For me the swim jig is a more subtle spinnerbait, the difference is it doesn't have flash and the vibration is different since it comes from a trailer rather than spinning blades. I like the swim jig for grass and if I'm in grass that is what I use first but be mindful of how fish are reacting to your bait. I've had perfect spinnerbait days and would get a follow or two or maybe some short strikers and then change up to a swim jig and immediately started catching the same fish that were following. Sometimes there is no rhyme or reason for why they will hit one and not the other so do your best to make an educated guess but if one doesn't work try the other.

Smoking a mold does work but it isn't perfect. Candle soot works as a release agent but it won't help with lead flow, at least it never has for me in over 20 years. I have a brush jig mold that in order to get a complete pour needs to be extremely hot as well as the lead. I'm talking lead temps at 825 degrees in a really hot mold to get a complete pour and that is with candle soot, a quick spray with Drop Out and I get a complete pour with my lead back down to 725 degrees, a 100 degree difference. The same issue for some of the molds I modified to take a larger hook or a different one altogether, these modified molds typically needed to be red hot and have super hot lead poured into the cavities in order to get a complete pour. With the mold release spray they pour a lot easier than they do with just candle soot. You are right in that smoking a mold will work and is cheaper but it isn't a replacement. Drop Out will help stubborn molds pour better and it does so a lot better than candle soot and if it didn't nobody would buy it. I agree smoking a mold will help but sometimes you need a little extra and that is what Drop Out is for.

The skirted ball head jig (Eakins Jig) is one of my favorites. I make my own and to me it is the "jack of all trades and master of none" type jig. As others have said, it works ok in most environments but it isn't as good as other types. They are great for hopping and what I call skittering, which is just letting the jig on the bottom and giving the reel a quick crank or two and then stopping with the rod in the 10 o'clock position. I use those jigs around docks, bare banks and light brush mostly.

A fluke, simple, easy to use and can be worked fast or you can let it drop down in high percentage areas.

Would you tie a 2lb lure to your MH rod? A 2 pound bass isn't small when dead lifting out of the water and boat flipping fish even with proper technique isn't what the rod is designed for. Seriously though, take any MH rod and tie a 2lb weight to it and lift it up, a 2lb fish in the water isn't big, dead lifting it 2' or 3' out of the water is a different story.

What baits are you using? I'm asking because I fish a lot of rock and I beat my square bills pretty hard and I've only broke maybe 3 bills over the last 15 years or so and I shallow crank a lot. I'm not counting jerkbaits because I'm using those in cold water and I have had my fair share of broken and cracked bills. I was wondering if you tried any baits with the circuit board bill? They are thinner than a normal Lexan or plastic bill but they are touted as being much more durable.

I purchased a 6'9" Heavy power Hammer rod 3 years ago for larger topwaters. What I soon discovered is the rod is a killer for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits in the 3/8oz to 1oz range. I have also used it with every walking bait I own from 3/8oz and up and I'm super impressed. What I like is the rod is a heavy power but has a moderate fast action and Hammer rods fish about 1/2 power under the rating so it is like a heavier MH rod. Being it is a little heavier than a mod fast MH rod makes the tip section a little more stout so I don't get the tip lag so I can work a bait fast but that mod fast action really helps keep the fish buttoned up and prevents me from pulling the hooks out. In 3 years I have not lost a single chatterbait or spinnerbait fish with it, if it is hooked I land it. Now I have lost a couple topwater fish but far fewer than I have when using a regular fast action rod and I can work baits better than I can with a full blown cranking rod.

I tried a bunch and I narrowed it down to 1 hook. The Owner Mosquito hook just works for me but I also like the Gamakatsu drop shot and Octopus hooks and the Trokar drop shot hook.