jkarol24

I did an lab for my physics class in which i tested line stretch under loads of 5, 10, and 15 lbs and got some interesting results. Results, from least stretchy to most: P-line Cxx copoly Berkley big game Mono Seaguar Red Label fluoro

Blade baits are very good in cold water, especially up here in the north. They are kind of a secret tool for cold water, most arent familiar with them... The most popular method is jig/rip them in fairly deep water (10+ ft) rather than a cast and retrieve. They are very effective in deep water due to their fast sink rate, heavy weight, and nice action.

Always peg in anything except open water with no cover. I would be flipping a 1/2-3/4 oz tungsten weight with a beaver type bait (extra appendages are bad in grass). If you are looking for a bigger profile, then add a punch skirt. A frog is another good choice if the water is semi-warm, big fish love 'em. You may also want to consider ripping or burning a spinnerbait.

Sorry to threadjack, but how bad would it be if you didnt fix it. What does a broken skeg cause?

Seige is very good stuff, ive never had any problems with it.

There also is usually a plate by the driver's console under the throttle that also has max occupants and load.

Correct. Make contact with as much stuff as possible, rip through grass, bump stumps, and twitch the rod tip to make the skirt flair.

Yes! As it rains, runoff occurs and all sorts of yummy little morsels are washed into the water. As well, the rain water/ runoff tends to be warmer than the lake water. Both of these factors attract baitfish to the banks, and the bass arent far behind. Personally, i would be throwing around a spinnerbait but keep a flippin rod with a blue/black jig or creature on the deck so you can make a few quick flips to visible cover.

You deffinantly loose some transmission with slack braid, but this is made up by the fact that you will see the line twitch much easier because it floats. On a side note, if using braid on a dropshot or shakey head, you have to shake the tip alot more to get the same action. The braid bends and doesnt transmit energy while fluoro will stay more taught and pushes the bait.

I use the clinch knot with mono. However, it is not good for fluoro as it kinks and burns the line, and the knot can slip using braid because it is slicker. I use a palomar for fluoro and either a palomar or uni knot for braid,

The selection at mine was awful and the "regular" prices seemed to be a few bucks more than what you can buy it for... I was fairly dissapointed, ended up not buying anything.

Great video! The whole series with the G-man has been fun to watch, and very informative too! Thanks a bunch

Most likely your braking system. Loosen that braking up and make easy casts- dont whip the bait out like on a spinning rod. The bait will go further on a light cast with low brakes than it would with high brakes and a big cast. You shouldnt neccesarily rely on the reel brakes. The best brake is a well-practiced thumb.

They sort of look like Xcaliber baits...

If i had the choice between the garlic, powerbait, and coffee i would take the garlic all day. Powerbait makes me gag and dry heave and the coffee has a sickening sweet smell to me. The garlic is tolerable (hey, im Italian!). And there is an added bonus: Lets say you've got a tourney and you are launching at 6:30 and your real tired. One wiff of that garlic will wake you up guaranteed. Almost as good as smelling salt

Do NOT waste your money on this bait. It will cause arm soreness and a terrible case of "bass thumb"

hmm.... Never had that problem myself, but i am a religious hook sharpener. I would suggest either setting the hook a little easier or backing off on that drag so when you do set the hook some line comes out. You have the right line and i doubt its the rod...

If you are going to be in wood cover while pitching then 15-20 lb fluoro would be fine. If you get into grass and weeds, go to braid.

The only thing i would be worried about is if there is a loss of sensitivity (more contact between the reel foot and rod = more sensitivity). If you are not having problems with the sentitivity you should be fine

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone was associated with the University of Florida bass fishing team or could help me contact them. I did a google search and a search of the UF website but couldnt find any contact info. I am leaning towards attending the school starting fall 2012 and am VERY interested in joining the club. Any help or direction would be appreciated! Thanks, Jason

Yeah, just posted for an idea. That one on craigslist looks real good and a decent price too. Its not gonna go too fast with only a 50 HP motor with the whole family, but otherwise very nice and a good lake boat.

this one: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/98128-2005-triton-190fs-loaded-200-optimax-must-sell/

a fish and ski is the way to go. For an idea, check out the triton fish and ski in the flea market section!

If i'm fishing weeds and grass, then tie straight to the braid. A sharpie is your friend, recolor as needed. Anything to do with rocks, docks, wood, open water, or anything clearer than slight mud i will use a 20 lb fluoro leader. As jfranco stated, if you tie yourself a good connection knot, you will have almost zero problems unless that leader is too long (more than 3-5 ft for pitchin) and the knot is catching on your guides. Even this shouldnt be a problem, but some dont like it and/or use micro guides.

Obviously you like the revo premier for flipping and it IS a great reel, just not what i would choose for flipping. I like a heavier reel, say a curado, for this. Just personal preference i guess. For me, this would put the exo out of the equation as well... As well, i am suspect to the ability of those lightweight gears to hold up to heavy winching. On a side not, i have the 2009 model premier (not sure if this is the first model you were looking for) that i would consider selling or trading for a RH curado or chronarch...