I almost always put a quality ceramic bearing in the line roller. It helps alleviate line twist, adds durability, and has better corrosion resistance, on one of the hardest worked bearings in the reel.
I fill it up with cheap line, tie on a half ounce sinker, and cast as far as it will fly. Pull off about three-four full arm lengths, cut it, then put on the good stuff. Few lures have as little resistance as a sinker and the arm lengths add a cushion. It'd be hard to cast to the backing. I keep a cheap reel around to reel up the cheap mono I cut off, so it can be used again.
Fluorocarbon is nearly impervious to UV rays. It would take years to break down from the sun, under normal conditions. Most cheaper fluoros will break when they're kinked because the resin is not very pliable, same applies to stiffer fluoros. It will also burn up and break easily if knots aren't wetted and tied properly. It's definitely a bit finicky, and has to be used with a little extra care.
The Edge 705 is the best balanced, most sensitive rod I've ever handled. I'd take an NFC HM over any other blank on the market. It's easily on par with the NRX, with better build quality.
A properly built custom on an SC5, K2, or NFC HM, will be as sensitive as any person would ever need. At that point, any difference is basically just personal preference, as far as action, power, balance, etc. That's why I recommend custom. You get exactly what you want.
37 casting, 14 spinning.
Favorite is probably my Daiwa SS SV 103H on a 6'10" Med. Expride. Stupid light, and just a joy to fish with. Second favorite is an Antares HG on an Orochi XX Extreme Mission. It will throw a 5" senko into orbit.
Having used both, the CI4+ is 10x the reel the Premier is. The Gen3 Premier doesn't really feel like a $200 reel to me; retail it's ridiculous. I'd buy a Gen2 before a Gen3, but the CI4+ and Curado I are both better reels than the Premier.
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