Tywithay

I just had two reels arrive within the last week from ebay purchases. Both were flawless. I've ordered dozens from there, from several different countries, and I've yet to be bamboozled. Clearly, there are some deals that seem unrealistic, especially if it's from China or something. I just try to stick to the old rule, "if it looks too good to be true...."

I've had the same issue with my Tatula SV. I have 12lb Trilene on mine, but if I'm throwing a bigger crankbait, I've managed to spool it on a few occasions.

I know a few guys that grease all their bearings, except for the spool bearings. Mostly for saltwater use, because it helps keep the salt from corroding the races. Levelwind bearings and line roller bearings (on spinning) especially take a beating from the moisture and debris.

If you're just fishing freshwater, and the price isn't a huge difference, I'd say go for the Core. The 50e is a great little reel, but there's just something special about that Core.

People like to tinker with reels in the stores. They're not being used to just click the thumb bar, then reel. People remove cast control knobs, open hatches, etc. Any number of issues can arise when uneducated people are messing around with a display. It's not really a good measure of a reel's quality. I've been using my K since the day they got in stock and it hasn't even begun to let me down. If I didn't like my Tatula SV so much, I'd probably have only K's.

I'd probably look around for a good deal on a Shimano Sahara. I don't think I've used anything in that price range that felt nearly as good. Maybe a used NASCI.

All reels are like that. You can buy $299 Lew's reels for like $219, or a $199 Tatula SV for $135. That's just the nature of the reel business. Most brick and mortar stores need a higher markup, to keep the lights on, than some guy on ebay just shipping stuff out of his garage.

A faster tip and slightly heavier rod helps hook penetration when using senkos, in my experience. The hard part is finding that balance of light enough to still cast them well, but heavy enough to dig that hook in, and drag them through cover.

I had my Calais DC on a similar setup, except it was an 8' Phenix rod, and I had similar results. It's just an absolute beast when you're throwing anything aerodynamic. The only reel I've had that was comparable is the Daiwa Z2020, which may very well be the best reel I have ever owned.

It depends on the DC reel. Not all of them were created with distance in mind. Most of the newer models are all about backlash prevention. They cast like any other reel, but you can tune the settings to the point you don't really even need to thumb the spool. The older Calais/Antares models had an extreme distance setting meant strictly for bombing it out there. Conditions had to be pretty good, otherwise you'd have a bird nest the size of a buick, but they can outcast pretty much anything on the market.

For all purpose rods that can do everything, the Megabass Destroyer series are hard to beat. They throw a much wider lure weight range than the NRX, which are more technique specific, in my opinion. You lose a little sensitivity (probably not enough for most humans to discern), but one rod can do a variety of tasks.

I don't think they're that great as all-purpose rods. If you need something when sensitivity is paramount, there's very few that are on par.

Graphite is non-porous. The only water that's going to freeze will be on the outside of the rod, or the eyelets.

I have been working in aircraft composites for over a decade and have never once heard of an issue brought on by cold temperatures. I assure you, it's much colder at 35,000ft than it is in your garage.

Black may fade into that environment better when viewed by human eyes, but bass do not have human eyes.

Used curado 200i, or new tatula ct. I don't think anything else is even in the ballpark.

I use 6lb Tatsu. It's the best line I've found as far as abrasion resistance, lack of stretch (sensitivity), strength, and manageability. Nearly all the lakes around me have too many rocks and logs for braid.

I have long thought that the KLX were the nicest blanks for the money, for any brand. The Mags are good rods, but those Winn grips aren't very durable, if you fish a lot.

I've used several DC reels and they are spectacular. Though, they have gone backwards in recent years. The original DC on the Calais was one of the furthest casting reels ever produced. Nowadays, it's all about backlash prevention, rather than distance. That being said, the Daiwa Mag3D is easily on par with the DC system. It doesn't have the fancy electronics, but the science behind it is equally as impressive. It also performs just as well, if not better, in some reels. The Z2020 is the best reel I have ever used, better than the Calcutta DC, Calais DC, Metanium, etc. I don't have any loyalty to either brand and use reels from both, but to say one is light years ahead of the other in terms of technology is way off base.

Once you get past a certain price point, you're not paying for more performance. The mid-tier reels like the Curado and Tatula perform basically just as well as the Antares and Steez. The difference with the high end reels is refinement. They're smoother, cast a little easier, lighter, etc. Reels can only cast as far as bearings and spools allow, and there hasn't been any world changing additions in several years. The Curado K has many of the features that were only available on the top of line reels a few years ago. Same is true of Daiwa reels.

I don't think either company is necessarily better in the high end, though Shimano's DC reels do have a little something extra that just makes them more fun to fish. Once you get past a certain dollar amount, all the companies are putting out nice gear.

Notice I said, "can" drag the front of the bait down, not "will." Not all baits are created equal and some fluoro is more dense than others. The buoyancy of the lure makes a difference. The knot can also make a difference. There are a lot more variables than just mono vs. fluoro. Red Label isn't thin for its rating, it's just properly rated. Japanese lines are rated at actual breaking strength for the diameter. Most american lines are rated well below, so they can say things like "strongest 10lb line in the world!" Of course, the line actually breaks at 14lb, because it has the same diameter as 14lb line. Knot strength for fluorocarbon is always a hot topic, but if you wet the line properly, and tie a good knot, it's every bit as strong as mono.

Don't pay attention the line's breaking strength. 15lb Red Label has a diameter of .33mm, the same exact diameter of 12lb Trilene XL. The line you're using is just fine. I only prefer mono because the extra stretch seems to keep the fish pinned a little better with trebles. Fluoro sinks as well, which can kind of drag the front of the bait down.

I haven't found any Loomis that I felt was on par with other rods in the same price range, save for the GLX and NRX. If you can find either of those models on closeout, or demo special, they're 100% worth it. All the other lines, I feel like you can find something comparable, or better, for less money. I've seen numerous people compare rods like the Kistler KLX and 13 *** to the IMX line from Loomis and they're considerably less money. I'm all for made in the USA, but you're definitely paying for that as well as the name, while some of the lesser known companies have to put out a superior product (value-wise) to compete with the well-known companies.

I have 7 rods in my Altima right now, including a 7'6" flipping rod. If you put them in on the passenger side, you can get a 7'+ rod in a Focus pretty easily.