BradH

Yes. It's a great cold water bait. It's also what I'll tie onto a spinning rod anytime a novice steps onto the boat. In the summer I'll add a soft plastic bait to bulk it up.

That's just the way it works. If you feel like the rod is working to hard point the rod straight at the crank, or at least straighter than you are currently holding it, on the retrieve.

Straight Rock Bass

Hmmmmmm..........I did not know it was possible to use a baitcaster without thumbing the spool as a form of braking . I learned something new today.

For whatever it's worth I've bought skirts from him with no issues.

Casting shad raps in the #5 to #7 sizes with a casting rod requires a rod that won't be much good for anything but light, treble hooked lures with the ballistic coefficient of a piece of Styrofoam. That less sensitive action is what allows it to cast those lures. I also fish finesse worms wacky style and light jigs on another casting rod. It's a ML/F rod that won't cast the shad raps as well.

First, I have that same exact Fenwick 6'10" MF. For what it's worth a 50e fits on it and the rod performs great. Second, I cast Shad Raps all the time. You don't need to light money on fire to get it done. Look at the ML BPS Crankin' Sticks. I have 6' and 7' ML Crankin' Sticks and that's what I use them for, casting shad raps, flicker shads, small topwaters, scatter raps, etc. That's all I use them for. That buggy whip action allows them to cast light lures very well. One wears a Curado 50E and the other a Revo Premier. Both are spooled with 20 pound braid (6 pound mono diameter) and a suitable leader.

Yep, other than the BCX and the 7000 and up reels, the round ABU reels are still made in Sweden. http://vimeo.com/69813193

That will work.

If you are spoon fishing an open eye siwash hook between 2/0 and 4/0 seems to get the job done. Just close up the eye around the split ring that originally held the treble hook.

Carry small bolt cutters, split ring pliers and extra trebles.

My Dad towed a Tracker 175 with a Chrysler Town & Country. It had the tow package. It did just fine.

I sprayed my car down with KVD L&L. It's faster and it gets better mileage.

I've fished them and they do catch fish. They hunt as advertised. That said, they don't catch any more fish than say a KVD 1.5, shallow shad rap or other baits that dive to a similar depth and they cost more. I'm sure someday I'll find a situation where they outfish other baits, but I might be waiting a long time. When they start showing up in the $5 Rapala treasure chest at walmart I'll pick up a few more. They are now in my "overrated hype box".

That WS reel is fine the way it is. The spool diameter is larger to reduce line capacity, you pretty much answered your own question. It's a great reel for baits on the large end of the bass spectrum and up from there. Use it and enjoy!

You can make setting the drag as complex or as easy as you want it to be. I just do it by feel, I like to do it the easy way. Generally in heavy cover with single hook baits like a spinnerbait, bass jig or Texas rig go tighter. For crankbaits and other treble hooked lures go lighter. When fighting/moving a fish I use the rod, not the reel. I will almost always make adjustments when fighting a fish of any size and/or thumb the spool. Ten pounds of drag will get almost anything in fresh water to the boat.

I always use a leader for the reasons posted above. I also fish around rocks and pike so I like the resistance to abrasion and bite offs.

Me until I tried a 5:1 reel. I like to learn the hard way.

Every plastic framed $50 reel I have purchased over the years is no longer being used. On the other hand every quality metal framed reel I've got (BPS, ABU Revo & round, Shimano, etc.) is still being used. When you consider that, all those reels are a better buy, at least to me.

Sounds like a Salmon rod. They usually have a much more moderate action than a Musky rod. 10XD cranks?

I have about a half dozen Curado Es (50E, 200E5, 200E7) and a Citica 200E in regular use. I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. I suspect I fish quite a bit more than the average user. Try using a heavier grease on the gears after cleaning if the feel bothers you. That has worked well for me. I had used Cal's, Penn and Super Lube. Now I'm using whatever marine grease is in my grease gun. Before I stepped up on the grease the geary feel in no way affected the reels performance. It did not bother me.

You're dead on. Those are the sizes I run, give or take 2 pounds for certain situations. For the casting if I'm running cranks I go 20-30 with a 10-12 leader.

I use the stock hooks until they need to be replaced. I also sharpen them if they need it. They are fine. I replace them with a Mustad 35647, #6 out back and a #4 up front (on a 1.5). Most spinning rods are a little more forgiving than an equally rated casting rod. You should be good with your medium fast. Even when you do everything right you'll still loose a few.

I'm using a 50e on the 6'10" Medium Fenwcik. I agree, hands down, with everything stated above. I'm running 8 pound fluoro on mine.

Anything a bass would eat a walleye will eat. It's about location and time. My favorite setups are jigs (plain ole ball head & curly tail, bucktail/hair jigs), dropshot rigs and pulling/casting cranks. Live bait on bottom bouncers, lindy rigs, jigs, etc. work great too but I get lots of little cigars when I do that. Still a great option when the bite gets though. I've caught plenty on senkos and other "bass lures" by accident.