Thanks guys.
Plenty of bass in the southern part of Africa with international competitions between South Africa and neighbours Zimbabwe, Namibia, Swaziland keenly contested.
I fish for all species in fresh and saltwatee with lures and flies.
Chris
The presto pot is more effective in keeping larger quantities of plastisol at operating temp for long periods.
I collect the sprue and leftovers in a pyrex cup to reheat in microwave before adding to the presto again.
Pyerex cups can also be placed on a hot tray or in an oven but I never tried that.
Chris
Hi. I have been a member for couple of years but live intervened and social media and groups were placed on the backburner.
Unfortunately fishing time also suffered. This year things are looking up and I hope to learn more from the great people on these forums.
Thanks for having me back.
Chris
The dam wall on one of my favourite dams was lifted by 5 meters (+/- 16 foot).
This created lots of interesting structure with my favourite being a brick outhouse/toilet with a porcelain throne.
It feels like I say this every year but I need to get away from the bank and start using my electronics.
I have started making my own shaky head jigs and plan on using them a lot.
I have just read a very good review on the bleeding shad swimjig by BR's JT Bagwell, on a local ( South African) forum. Will Siebert jigs be available here and if so who will be carrying them? I would love to use them but shipping cost and the quality of the local postal service has thus far prevented me from placing an order.
I have been using jigs for the last 2 years and am gaining confidence in their ability to produce nice bass. My main struggle is that I hate losing jigs and will often fall back on a Texas rig in an effort to save some money. Losing 5 jigs in 6 casts turns me off rather fast.
Try a big spook or other large topwater. I break out a super spook or big buzzbait when I need a kicker. Something about a big loud topwater annoys the .... out of big mean bass.
6.6 to 7 MH/F rod and 6:1 baitcasting reel.
You don't mention a budget so I will tell you what I use.
Rod Powell Max 6.8 MH/XF , reel Chronarch 100BSV, Line PP or 832 40# for "grass" lakes or 15 17# Big Game mono.
I believe line diameter is more important for diving depth than material. Thinner diameter braid will let the same lure dive deeper than a thicker flouro. Cranks are cast and retrieve lures so there is no time for a sinking line to pull a floating/diving lure down far enough to make a noticeable difference. In my opinion the statement that flouro let's a lure reach deeper falls in the same category as non stretch, totally invisible line claims designed to catch anglers not bass. I'm not slamming flouro and would consider cranking with flouro because of improved abrasion resistance and lower visibility but not because it makes my lure run any deeper.
I have recently switched from 12# mono to 30# braid. My first observation was that I got stuck a lot less cranking lay downs. I could feel the line going over the limb and was able to "finesse" my crank trough spot I was never able to before. So far I'm liking it. I also prefer braid when ripping lipless cranks through grass.
Braid handles better than flouro and you don't need to thrash the line after a birdsnest. For anything involving soft frogs I would recommend braid in 50# and up.
While I already have an understanding with Santa regarding the new chronarch I made an exeptional score today. I managed to pick up 2 NIB 100bsv Chronarchs from a local store that had them on the shelve for years. I believe that for under $100 each they should be able to entertain from now up to Christmas.
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