aavery2

The transducer is part of the equation, the Head Unit must also have the software to support the additional or wider beam(s), as in the case of a dual beam or quad beam transducer.

Go with the 24V, you never know when you will need the extended battery life or the additional thrust.

Great post, very informative, my previous post was in reference to suspending jerkbaits, that is what in my opinion makes a great suspending jerkbait is the fact that they do not rise or sink but rather suspend. I also fish the MB 110's and if fishing a Silent Riser or a High Floater that is exacly what I would expect them to do, especailly at their price. Again very good post

Mike McClelland (SPRO Mc Stick) says that you never want a suspending jerkbait to rise, he went on to say that he tunes his baits with either bigger hooks or additonal splitrings to get the presentation he prefers. He also said that he prefers the bait to have a slightly nose down attitude while suspending.

I like Jackal Iobee frogs, good hooks, nice soft bodies, and walk as easy as any out there. The Padcrasher is cheaper and works well also.

I fish Falcon rods almost exclusively, I do own an NRX,I own and use both of the rods mentioned, if you are looking for a rod to pitch 3/8 and 1/2 jigs, the Head Turner is the rod you want.

PJ, of course I am here to learn and to share, as I would believe the vast majority of people that are here. IMHO most of your arguement comes from personal opinion and very little fact, with that said I would ask that you follow your own advice and keep an open mind. Your example of the swimming pool and a small piece of line is not a good example. Try it with 60 or 70 yards of line and I think you will see just how much difference in bouyancy there is between mono and FC. As far as misinformation and expected performance, I will take my own personal results and the opinion of many a pro over yours (no offense meant). I quess we will just have to agree to disagree on this one.

Joe I think you are only partially correct with your statement above, the fact that FC line sinks does help get your baits deeper, no it does not pull your bait to the bottom, but it does reduce the amount of resistance that the bait must overcome to dive. 40-60 yards of mono floating line creates enough resistance that it will reduce the depth that the bait can dive. FC line being dense sinks and does not create that same floatation. It is similar to what you mentioned with line diameter, thinner line will get deeper because there is less resistance against the water to pull it deep, combine the two, small dia. and sinking line will get you an extra couple of feet in depth with most deep diving cranks. Don't take my word for it, prove it to yourself.

I rig them tail down, it keeps the tail from getting tangled in the hook, the exception to this is if I want to slow roll a jig across the bottom, then I rig the tail up so it does not drag on the bottom and kill its action.

I prefer a moderate or moderate fast action rod. I use FC line for med and deep cranks and mono/copoly for shallow baits. I understand the discussion about line vs rod, but in my experience a mono line does not have the same ability to help keep a fish on with treble type baits.

That question is nearly impossible to answer IMHO, there are so many variables other than the type of CF used in the makeing of a rod that affect a rods ability to transmit vibration.

The thing about common sense is that it is not so common. Hard to believe that people with this lack of intelligence are employed at a level where they are charged with making these type of decisions.

Shimano North America typically does not stock parts for reels that have been discontinued for 5 years or longer. There are a couple of good aftermarket sources for the parts you are looking for. Dad'sOle Tackle is one that I have had luck using to find older parts. You can give them a call at 1-866-703-9852. Another is Sothwestern Parts and Service you can check out their website or call them at 214-630-8161. Hope it helps

Interesting, not to Hijack the thread, but I wonder what most are using when it comes to rod action.

I find it much easier to walk a frog with a rod that has a F or XF action, especially on long casts. Guess it just comes down to personal preference.

It's a fine setup, sounds like you just need to do a little research on how to properly adjust a baitcaster. Don't worry most of us have shared in your misery, it will just take a little bit to get the proper adjustments and you will be casting like a pro in no time.

Glad the previous post helped. Not sure you are using common terms to describe your problem, kinking is not something common to braid. My suggestion is make sure you are setting your reels brakes and spool tension correctly before you begin casting . There are many threads that give very detailed instructions on how to properly adjust a reel. Just do a little searching on the internet, or maybe someone here can post a link to a good thread. Good Luck

Thread about 6 or 8 inches of line through the thin wire eye at the end of the stop. Grab the disk with one hand and pull the rubber stop off the wire with the other, it will cause the line to double over so be sure to push the stop up the line and trim it above where it is kinked.

If your serious about buying one, Academy Sports has them on clearance for a little over $100.

I use and have great luck with the KVD L&L, spray it on the night before, and again when I get to the lake, works like a charm.

If you like the Falcon Cara line, take a look at the Composite Cranker II, I use this rod for my deep cranks, and like it very much.

Lighter Spool, brass brake pins instead of plastic, Ti coated line guide instead of SiC, larger grips, and an extra bearing for smoothness. Both great reels, the Citica has always been my favorite in that price range.

Congrats, 32 years is a real accomplishment, hope you have 32 years of good fishing.

Your correct they absolutely wear, but have nothing to do with his handle being loose, which was the reason you posted the information. I am sure it was just an oversight on YOUR part.

The handle and drag stack are on seperate areas of the crank shaft. Drag wear will not cause a loose handle, otherwise everytime you tightened the drag, and compressed the drag stack you would have a loose handle. I do agree that he needs to remove the cap and tighten the nut.