aavery2

My understanding is this, as the night temperatures drop and begin cooling the water at a greater rate than the day sun can warm it, the upper level water temp drops. As the upper level water temp drops, the water becomes more dense and starts falling and mixing with the lower level water as it now rises to the top. In some lakes there is now not enough difference in temp. for a thermocline to form. However in colder areas, as the upper level water starts nearing a temperature that is very close to freezing, it again becomes more dense and sinks to the bottom, bringing slightly warmer water that is just above freezing temps to the top until is freezes and becomes ice, lighter than water. In the later case it is possible to have a winter thermocline, but in a lot of cases it is impossible to fish in a typical manner because of the ice.

Gander Mountain

I guess I am the odd one here. I much prefer the dual braking of the Abu's to any of the single braking systems. The next would be the Diawa reels and their Magforce brakeing, centrifugal actuated magnetic. If I am casting a reel with only one brake system then I prefer centrifugal brakes.

Truthfully a guy only needs to upgrade the two spool bearings, the one under the tension cap actually has very little effect on casting in reels of this design. If a guy does that it makes it very affordable, somewhere in the neighborhood of $35 dollars.

Dean Rojas was in town last year pushing this line, he was saying that he had specifically designed it to work well with his signature frog. The price was a little steep for me at the time so I stuck with what has worked for me. Let us know how you like it if you end up getting it.

If the fish there are feeding on shad, find the warmest water in the lake, a couple of degrees is enough to make a difference. The shad will migrate to this area and bass should not be far behind.

Check your local G.M. ours still has a few of the Shimano Citica E model for $89 dollars. It has always been a top reel at the $100 dollar price point.

Man turnover can be a tough time, now most of the lake is rich with oxygen and we can't use a thermocline as an additonal guide/boundry to where we might locate fish. Seems like they really scatter during this time, I catch one on a crank and another on a spinner, a couple on a jig, just all over the place. Fortunately someting else occurs during this time as well, the shad start moving to warmer water to find their own food source, the main lake is too cold now to support the plankton so they start moving into the creeks to find warmer water. These fish are a lot easier to catch, square bills, swimjigs, t-rigged plastics lots of things work well. I like the square bills, easy to cover lots of water. If they are hugged close to cover, I go in and get them with the plastics or arkie type jigs.

The 50 series of reels by Shimano, the Sol and Pixy by Daiwa, The MGX to a degree by ABU are all just tools. Just like the many other reels you have, they all excel at different things. It just so happens that these reels are good to great tools for casting sub 1/4 ounce weights. You say "Just casting lighter lures" like it is a small thing. In fact the materials and technology used to create baitcasting reels that are capable of performing this task on a repeatable basis are expensive and timely to machine and manufacture. So like you said, they are great at casting lighter weights and maybe thats enough.

Sorry for my part in the childishness, sometimes I forget that I am an adult, and let little things bother me more than they should. Please accept my apology.

Sometimes I write things I wish I could take back. This is one of those times, fishing reels are not worth getting bent out of shape over. I could have made my point without offending anyone, and wish I had.

Cool, I understand your view, but I will digress and ask you what the 50G would be. To bring it in at the price point you suggested, it would have to be more similar to a Citica in features, or possibly even a composite framed reel. There you go, the Caenan 50G.

Assumuptions will get you in trouble. ........

I'm very familar with Chronarch E, and going backwards does not seem to be an issue with Shimano, seeing as we are now fishing a Curado 50, and Curado 200 E, both now with Chronarch badgeing, it is you who needs to open your eyes, and stop drinking the cool- aid.

How about an aluminum version of the Core, we call it the Chronarch 50G, we then take the now Chronarch 50e and call it the Curado 50g. Man this all seems strangely familar.

What would the 50G be? With the Curado 50e, the Chronarch 50e, Core 50mg7,and the older Chronarch 50mg seems like they have it covered.

Braided fishing line works well

I prefer tied skirts, it allows the skirt to move a little more naturally, the bands can also become dried and a break, or loose and slip off the jig. It is a very easy process to wire tie any jigs that you purchase with banded skirts.

OP, sorry for the Hijack, my Son's first rod and reel was an Ugly Stick and Zebco 33.

They are holding up well so far, the first Bantam was made in 1978, so they have about 35 years on them. I have a few South Bend reels from 1907, that can still be used, and an Abu Matic from the Mid 50's that works well, so they still have a little to prove yet.

If inflation and devaluation of the dollar stays the same, by the time your first born can fish, Shimano will be labeling the Snoopy Casters as Chronarchs.

Not saying that it can't be done, just that it is on the edge of its capability, and there are other reels that would easily out perform a Curado 200e when throwing 1/4 oz on 12lb line.

The 200E Curado would probably not be the best choice with 1/4oz and 12lb test line, certainly pushing it's capabilities. Have you considered a high quality spinning combo?

Step up your reel to a 200 series. The Curado E series reels are the same basic design as the new Chronarchs, if you want an actual Chronarch take a look at the B series reel, it is a little heavy but extremely smooth and it will have the line capacity your after. You could also look at the Chronarch D series, but they are a little harder to find.

When fishing contact baits a guy should get as sensitive a rod as his budget will allow, this type of fishing is where a rod that conducts vibration well earns it's price. Entry level rods have come a long way in their construction and components that are used to produce them, but they fall short when compared to true upper end rods. My suggestion for a rod would be to keep an eye out for a good used Gloomis IMX or GLX if your lucky, 844 series rod, they have been the benchmark for jig rods for a long time. Dobyns Champion is good and the DX line is even better a good used 735C would make a good jig rod and should be available in your price range. Don't short yourself on quality when it comes to a contact bait rod, you will regret it in the long run.