aavery2

E2 had fished the BPS branded gear for a while, he will leave it behind this coming year as he is now sponsored by Megabass.

The IMX series are great rods, if it were me I would pick up an 844 for jig fishing instead of two 843.

Just got back from Amistad for a week of fishing, used the 3G Winch quite a bit. Casted very well and performed flawless.

For me it all depends on the technique that I am building the setup for. Moving techniques can be fished with a less sensitive rod than bottom contact techniques. My spending is based on what I enjoy and nothing else, I could care less what someone else uses or what they think about what I use. I have rods that cost 400-500 dollars and I have rods that cost a lot less, I have reels that cost 300 -400 dollars and I have reels that cost a lot less. This is a sport that anyone can enjoy and there are levels for everyone, get in where you fit in.

I fish the Falcon Cara Jason Christie Frog Rod, 6'11'' H F, works very well for me.

I carry the XDs .45, I like the .45 round a little better than the .40 seems to be a little less snappy to me. I also own a Glock 19 and a Sig 2022 both are 9mm, the XDs is easier to conceal.

Daiwa Sol Shimano Citica E Abu Garcia Revo Premier Gen 2 BPS Carbonlite - Gold Model Shimano Chronarch B Abu Garcia Revo Winch Shimano Curado E Pflueger Patriarch Lews Tournament Pro Daiwa Zillion Maybe not the best, but certainly worthy of consideration.

Equipment designed to fish deep cranks and high resistance lures is a major factor, rods over 7ft moderate or moderate fast, lower gear ratio /IPT reels, I prefer FC line in 12 or 15 lb test, I can get a bait 1-3 foot deeper and it has great abrasion resistance. Use your knowledge of the thermocline to limit unproductive water, no need to fish 20ft divers if the TC is at 16 ft. If your bait is not digging into the bottom, bumping rocks, logs, whatever is there, it needs to be. Lots of great suggestions already.

You will see it both ways in many of the ABU reels, I have around 20 and they are a mix of shielded and unsheilded bearings under the cast control cap.

Very nice, the Sig 238 is tops in .380 IMHO.

The edited article appears on page 58 in the June 2006 Edition of Saltwater Sportsman The following is the full article before editorial shortening. Braid and Mono Capacity – How to figure just the right amount of Mono backing for the quantity of the Braid you want to use – or visa-versa. By Adam Wilner Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use the thinner and far more sensitive super braids to find their dinner.This type of line offers greater strength, much smaller diameters and the key – Unbelievable sensitivity.The down side it is that it costs 3 times the price of mono.Most anglers I know don’t want to spend upwards of $50 to fill the reel with line.The solution is simple.Put 150 yards of braid on the top and spool the rest with good old-fashioned monofilament. The problem occurs when we try to get just the right amount of monofilament backing to add the amount of braid we have decided upon.I have heard of many methods to accomplish this.The best one I have heard requires a second, identical spool, where you put on the braid first and then add the mono until the spool is full.At this point you would take the end of the mono that you just put on and tie it onto the second reel.Now wind it on and you are done – perfect.Except you need another spool or in the case of most bottom rigs another reel.That is a costly way to add line. With a little info and a calculator you can get the same result for free (or at least real cheap).However, you must remember that your results will only be as accurate as the information you use.If you are looking for perfection then I recommend that you take precautions.For example, test your line counter. The first information you will need is how much line the reel will hold.It doesn’t matter if the manufacturer tells you a capacity in a different line size than you are going to use because we are going to convert all the numbers. In the following illustration I am going to use The Penn 113H, 50 lb Power Pro and Ande 30lb mono for the backing. The 113H has a capacity of 475 yards of 30 lb line.We need to know the diameter of the 30 lb. line Penn used in “their” calculations.I could have called them or sent an e-mail but Penn also printed the other capacity numbers (metric) on the Penn website https://www.pennfishing.com/. It is 435 Meters at .55 millimeters (mm).Don’t be frightened, like many of you, I don’t think in meters or millimeters either.The conversion tables are easy to use or you could simply go to www.onlineconversion.com and plug in your numbers.In this case I have converted meters to yards and millimeters to inches.These are the terms I am familiar with.You will also need to know the diameter of the lines.Power Pro has the specs posted on their website at www.powerpro.com.It says there that their 50 lb. test line is .014 inches in diameter.Finally, I will use Ande 30 lb. Monofilament as the backing www.andemonofilament.com.I found that 30 lb Ande is .022 inches in diameter. Let’s jot down some conversions. 435 meters = 476 yards (rounded) .55 mm = .0216535 inch 50 pound Power Pro = .014 inch Ande Premium Monofilament 30 lb. = .022 inch 1 mm = .0393701 inch 1 meter = 1.0936133 yard Total Capacity Factor The total capacity equals 476 yards with line of .0216535 of an inch.To get the total capacity factor we do the following:476 x .0216535 = 10.30 So 10.30 is the total capacity factor. The Braids Capacity Factor The capacity factor of the braided line is done the same way:Remember, 150 yards of 50 lb. Power pro: 150 x .014 inch = 2.1The braid capacity factor is 2.1 So the remaining capacity (or mono needed as backing) is:The total capacity factor minus the braid capacity factor or:10.3 – 2.1 = 8.2This is the Remaining Capacity Factor.This is the reason we went through all this.The remaining capacity factor divided by the diameter of the mono tells us how much backing we need or:8.2 ¸ .022 = 373 yards of the monofilament backing. Simply load the reel with 373 yards of this mono, join the mono to the braid and wind it on.If you are interested to know your new line capacity just add the two numbers 373 yards of mono + 150 yards of braid = 523 yards of line. Want to add capacity to a spinning reel (or any reel)?Trying to figure out how much braided line the spool will hold?This method makes short work of it.Of course we start with the manufacturers information.Most often it is printed right on the spool itself.Lets say we have a spinning reel that holds 195 yards of 20 lb test.We want to keep 20-pound test but here we want to increase the amount of line on the reel. Remember:Line capacity multiplied by the Line diameter = Total Capacity Factor or 195 x .018 = 3.51 Then the total capacity factor divided by the “new” line diameter (the braided line)= The new capacity Or 3.51 ¸ .009 = 390 yards of 20 pound test braided line.In this case we have doubled the reels line capacity.You may decide that you do not need that much line and opt for a little more strength.Simply take the total capacity factor (you already figured this out) and divide it by the diameter of 30 pound braid or: 3.51 ¸ .011 = 319.Perfect.You now have 319 yards of 30-pound braid vs. 195 yards of 20 lb. Mono.Look out Spindlebeak – I’m a commin’. So with an inexpensive line counter and a calculator you can get you reel spooled to the brim without wasting any of that expensive braided line. Fill your reel with line, fill your cooler with pop and fill your boat with fish. The following is how it appears in Saltwater Sportsman June 2006 TOPS FOR BOTTOMS: Braid with mono backing draws raves from bottom fishermen. Photo: Joe Cermele Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use superbraid lines to help them catch fish. Rather than spend up to $50 to spool a reel, top-shot with mono backing. Here's how to calculate the amount of mono to use. The first information you will need is the reel's line capacity. For this example, I used the Penn 113H with 50-pound PowerPro and 30-pound Ande mono. Penn lists the capacity of the 113H at 435 meters of .55-millimeter-diameter line. I like to convert all metric figures to English (see "Conversion Table"), so the reel holds 475 yards of 30-pound mono. You will also need to know the diameter of the lines. PowerPro's 50-pound-test line is .014 inches in diameter. Finally, Ande 30-pound monofilament is .022 inches in diameter. To find the total capacity factor of the reel, multiply how many yards the spool can hold (476) by the diameter of the line, in inches (.022). 476 5 .022 = 10.5 yard-inches. Use the same formula above to find the braid capacity factor. Only in this instance multiply the number of yards of 50-pound PowerPro that you want (150) by its diameter in inches (.014). 150 5 .014 = 2.1 yard-inches. The total capacity factor (10.5) minus the braid capacity factor (2.1) gives us the remaining capacity factor: 8.4. Now, to figure out how many yards of mono backing you'll need to finish the job, divide the remaining capacity factor (8.4) by the diameter, in inches, of 30-pound Ande mono (.022-inch). 8.4/.022 = 382 yards—the amount of mono needed as backing. — Adam Wilner Conversion Table 1 mm = .0393701 inch 1 meter = 1.0936133 yard 1 yard = 3 feet 435 meters = 476 yards .55 mm = .022 inch 50-pound PowerPro = .014-inch diameter Ande Premium Monofilament 30-pound. = .022-inch diameter Note: numbers are rounded

Love them both, Yamamoto makes a laminate Senko that has both colors in it. I find myself using the green pumpkin a little more often, as a lot of the water I fish has color to it, when the water is clearer I usually start with the watermelon colors. A couple of my favorites are the Zoom watermelon and green pumpkin magic.

Don't trust the lives of your wife and yourself to a firearm of questionable reliability. Hi-Point guns are good for going to the range and shooting holes in paper. But when you need to trust your life to something make sure it is something that is reliable. I suggest either Glock or Sig Sauer.

Academy Sports H2O baits are inexpensive and work well. Rick Clunn STX jerbaits are good too, might need a hook change.

Congrats on the new rod, it is a rod that will be good for several techniques. IMHO, it is not a great rod for crankbaits, it is a little too fast for treble hook type baits. Typically you would want a slower rod, something in the moderate to moderate fast for crankbaits. Xtra fast is a good single hook, bottom contact type rod. Congrats again on the new rod.

I understand what your driving at, but there is a little difference. Lews and BPS are not apart of Pure Fishing, they are big enough that they contract their own reels built to their designs. There is no doubt that they are being produced in the same factory in Korea as the Abu and Plueger reels of Pure Fishing. There is another large Korean mfg of fishing reels also, they produce reels under the Silstar, Pinnacle, and I believe they are the same that produce some of the Daiwa reels like the Lexa and the Viento, W&M. Pure Fishing consists of these brands: Abu Garcia® All Star Rods® Berkley® Fenwick® Johnson® JRC® Mitchell® PENN® Pflueger® Sebile® Shakespeare® Spiderwire® Stren®

IMHO, jigs work well in almost all conditions, you have to match how you fish them to the current conditions. In cold rainy weather, I would use a swim jig much more like an arkie, or football jig, throwing it into heavy cover and dragging in very slowly back to me. Obviously there are better jigs to use than a swim jig for this technique, but if I was limited to just one, I think I could make it work for me.

RW, I have had these reels apart several times and looked at their design and construction. I have not found any reason why they would not be just as reliable in everyway as the PQ. In fact I think it may be a slightly better reel for the money. I will probably ruffle a lot of feathers with this comment but when you take them apart and compare them piece by piece they are almost identical to the Lews reels, and share a lot of parts with the Revo family of reels. I have pitched a lot of baits with these reels and they work well for that, they cast heavier baits in the 3/8oz range as well as you would expect, but what surprised me was their ability to cast 1/4oz and lighter baits fairly well. In short I have had no issue with these reels, and have not heard of any problems with them outside of the normal range of issues for any reel. I looked last night to see if I could find negative reviews and there were a few,but I was surprised at the number of people who use these reels regularly and have nothing but positive comments. I will stand by my original comment of a great deal.

I did mention the Sig 226 and P2022 in an earlier post

Man that is a tough question. I would have to go with a 3/8oz swim jig, black and blue, or green pumpkin.

I agree the build quality of the Mojo is equal or better than a majority of the other rods in it's class. I have always felt that these rods make much better moving bait type rods, then bottom contact type rods.

Not to be over critical, but it is important that you understand that Medium and Medium Heavy are power ratings and not actions. Actions are typically Moderate, Moderate Fast, Fast, and Xtra fast. Pick the power of your rod based on the weight of the bait you intend to use and enviorment that you will fish. Choose the action of your rod based on the baits you intend to use on it. Slower actions for treble type baits (moderate, moderate fast) and faster actions for single hook type baits (fast, xtra fast) is in good rule of thumb, you can fine tune your preferences for different baits as you become more aquainted with rod power and action combinations. Good all around rods that cover a lot of techniques are med. hvy / fast and med / fast, just match the power of the rod to the weight of the bait you intend to fish.

In, towards the center of the hub is the off positon, out towards the rim of hub is on. It only takes a little pressure to adjust these brakes, and you should feel a positive click when they are moved to either the on or off position.

The Pro Qualifier has dual brakes as you know, the dial on the palm plate is for adjusting the magnetic brakes, the dial on the handle side plate is the spool tension, not to be confused with brakes. To adjust the centrifugal brakes you will need to remove the palm side plate and adjust the tabs to the on or off position to your likeing. Sounds like you may have several on now, if you are familar with baitcasters, try casting with two on and the mag brakes adjusted about half way.