aavery2

So now you realize the difference between yourself and others, while you see it as work and stressful, others find it enjoyable and another way to make their fishing more pleasurable. if it is simple for you that is fantastic, if others want to make it a more in depth question and analyze it more so be it.

So what's the question?

We all look for different things in the reels we fish, some find the differences worth the price others can do without. Myself, weight savings through the use of better materials and a smooth drag are things that I look for in most of the reels I use.

I agree with your post. Sometimes cost is not the best measure of quality.

You forgot to mention the magnesium frame and rotor vs graphite, the XT is about 1oz lighter, extra spool, sealed drag system, but your probably right they use the same size spool so that makes them the same.

Two of the most common lines used for fishing jigs are braid and fluorocarbon, primarily because of their ability to transmit vibration. They both have their advantages and disadvantages, a quick search on the topic will provide you with more information and opinions than you will most likely care to read. Choose a line type and strength based on your particular fishing situation and needs.

That is where the problem is, it is not a cut and dry question, in some cases the rod may be more important or as important as the reel, in others it may be visa versa, one shoe does not fit all. If you feel that one is more important than the other always, then it is probably true for your particular fishing habits. But you should not try to shoe horn everyone into the same situation, as fishing is vastly different depending on how you prefer to do it and where you are fishing. This is an open ended question with no answer bearing more weight than another. It is far from cut and dry.

Simply because there is no correct answer to the question, it is only a matter of opinion, and caveats are a means of justifying your choice. Remember just disagreeing with someone does not prove your point or make your opinion any more correct than theirs. This is not the first or even 10th time this same question has surfaced here and many other sites, the discussion is always the same.

So you seem to have a good handle on your spinning reels, why is the Pflueger Supreme XT not worth the money but the Stradic Fj is. In your opinion why is the Stradic the better reel?

I have fished with Pflueger spinning reels for a long time, they are a great value. I have fished everything from the President to the Patriarch. I like the President for its value, but the frame does have some flex in it. Hold the reel by the stem in one hand and lightly twist the reel from side to side with the other and you will see what I mean. I choose the Supreme MGX as the best value, the magnesium frame is worth the extra money to me. The Patriarch is smoothest and lightest of the bunch and if you have the money, you will not regret the purchase.

Take a look at some of the Daiwa reels that excel in lighter baits, Pixy, Alphas, Sol, to name a few. These can be found used and in great shape for a reasonable price.

To me it is not about one or the other, it is more about a balanced system. The important thing to understand is how they work together, rod, reel and line. If you have a weak link in the system your fishing will not be as enjoyable as it could be. A good comparison is hot rods, whats more important, engine, transmission, rear end or tires. They must all work together to get the most out of the car.

Steez goes well with just about anything, very nice reel. Of the two NRX's you have listed, I would go with the 853, very good rod for lighter jigs and plastics.

I have a Patriarch and a Supreme XT both have been fantastic reels, as mentioned above, to anyone wanting to part with your 1 year old worn out Pfluegers, shoot me a PM. No where else are you going to get a reel with a Magnesium frame, extremely smooth, and good line management for 100 dollars.

He mentions in the original post, that he is a Union Stewart.

Turn it over to the Supervisor / Manager of the area, they are trained to deal with these type of situations. Do it anonymously if it makes you feel better. I understand the whole union thing and all, but ask yourself what is going to make you feel worse, asking someone to check it out, or him possibly hurting or killing yourself or another of your co-workers. This is a no brainer.

I use the Falcon Cara Jason Christie signature model, fits the way I fish frogs very well.

Sunline

I think to set up any reel correctly it is important to understand the equipment that you are using and how it operates. Magnetic braking reels apply braking force differently and are most effective at a different point in the cast than their centrifugal counterparts. Magnetic reels apply a magnetic resistance to the spool that is varied by moving the magnets closer or further away from the spool surface they affect. Magnetic brakes are most effective at lower spool speeds, or towards the end of the cast as the spinning of the spool has less ability to overcome the magnetic resistance. Magnetic reels are more likely to have overruns at the beginning of the cast when the spool speed is at its highest and the brakes have the least amount of affect on the spool. In my opinion setting the spool loose on these reels is not a good method, this only perpetuates the ability of the spool to spin even faster at the beginning of the cast. Instead, my preferred method and one that works well in my fishing is to set the magnetic brakes at their lowest setting, we do not want them to be a part of the setup at this point. I then set the spool tension high enough that the weight of the bait will not move the spool while disengaged. I then adjust the spool tension to a setting that just barely allows the weight of the bait to pull line off the spool. Setting the spool tension this way will slow the spool down at the beginning of the cast. Now set your magnetic brakes to a med high setting, 5-7 is a good starting point, and begin casting, adjust the brakes higher or lower as needed, if you have the brakes backed all the way off, then you will need to loosen the spool tension slightly and then set the brakes back at a medium high setting and start again. This method works, it may not be the best or fastest way to prevent overruns but I guarantee that if you follow this procedure it will greatly reduce the number of backlashes you will experience. I prefer magnetic based reels for pitching, or any other technique where the spool does not reach very high speeds, I find this braking more effective than centrifugal for these applications because centrifugal braking is dependent upon spool speed to actuate the brake blocks. Also try to make smooth casts, whipping or snapping the rod during the cast increases spool speed greatly and can cause overruns at the beginning of the cast. hope it helps

All of the reels on your list are based on the same internal design. The Lews Tournament MG is a magnetic brake only reel, and the Revo STX uses a different spool design called Infini II, which is a disengaging two piece spool design. There may be some material differences with handles some using carbon fiber -vs- aluminum, and gears duralumin -vs- brass, but the internal workings are largely the same. While I do think the dual braking reels offer and advantage over magnetic only I would just pick the one that worked in my price range and ergonomically felt the best and start fishing.

I say use backing for a couple of reasons. First to prevent the line from slipping on the spool, second, there is no reason to fill the spool with high dollar line. Use mono line to fill all but the last 50 yards or so of line then spool on your braid to finish filling.

IIRC, the speed spool is a mag brake reel, and the new orra is a centrifugal reel, for casting baits where distance is a benefit I prefer centrifugal or dual brakeing reels.

BPS Pro Qualifier, Lews Speed Spool, Shimano Citica E, with just these three you have the choice of either dual brakes, mag brakes, or centrifugal brakes, so it starts to become a matter of preference quickly.

For many of the same reasons already mentioned, I find the LC baits to be worth it. The 1.5 series crankbaits are fish catching machines, as are the pointers. The LC baits have a good finish, and most of all suspend, fish and run true. If you just purchase 1 or 2 a month, you will soon have a good assortment.

When I first started fishing we were using glass rods and monofilament line. I was taught to fish with letting the line run over the tip of my index finger. Today's rods transmit vibration much better than the old glass rods. I don't feel like its necessary to use this technique any longer but I still do. Old habits die hard.