I have always loved Robin Williams, I saddens my heart to think that it finally come to this. Great, great actor, Dead poets society, Good Will Hunting, Awakenings, Patch Adams, Mrs. Doubtfire and many others.
Nanu Nanu
Why do you believe they are aftermarket drag washers and not he original dartanium drag washers that are factory installed by Shimano? The dartanium drag washers are known to deteriorate and come apart if not properly maintained.
The drag star on the Type R is also different, it is made of Zaion and is a single piece design. The regular Tatula uses some other material and the drag star is designed like that of a Shimano, with a nut on the main crank shaft that it tightens to apply pressure on the drag washers and disks. Aside from the obvious cosmetic differences, spool, and spool tension cap, ported frame, I think you have the rest covered.
Only you can decide if any of these things are important to you and make the Type R worth it. I will say that if you do any looking around the difference in price is much less than 50 dollars.
I went with the Type R and for me and my use I felt like it was an easy choice.
I have no idea, I can't find out much about the reel, I do know that they were offered as a prize in some type of facebook photo contest on the Daiwa page. No idea on how many were made or if they were available in LH retrieve.
Most of the people that I see using them are those with the very high end BFS reels, these bearings require a very low startup inertia, and when paired with an ultralight spool and magnetic braking are allowing guys to cast some very light baits comfortably.
This is one of the brands that I have heard of people using.
http://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/page/24
This page has a little more information about them
http://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/548
Many of the guys that have the enthusiast level gear are moving from the standard Abec 7 and 9 ceramic bearings to the Micro bearings, I have not tried them yet in any of my reels but I hear some very good reports.
There is another book that is highly regarded, it is named Precision Cranking, it is an in depth study of crankbaits and how the react to line diameter and casting and trolling lengths. The book was designed to be a Bible for the walleye fishermen. Here is a link to a small excerpt from the book, certainly worth a look.
http://www.bassmaster.com/tips/guide-precision-cranking
You could always employ the Paul Elias kneel and reel method, for every foot you extend your tip beneath the water surface you gain almost the same in running depth.
Maybe I am missing something obvious, but why not just purchase the DT-16, it is going to get you a couple extra feet in depth for a few dollars vs changing line? The bait is the same length and weight as a DT-14.
Here is an easy tip to get a little extra depth out of your crankbaits if you don't already do this. Hold the tip of your rod at water level during the retrieve, for every 3 foot above the water the tip is you lose 1 foot in running depth. Do an internet search for precision cranking, there was an article written with a ton of good information if you read through it.
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