aavery2

If I can replace a bushing with a bearing I usually do it. Spinning reels because of their design do not benefit from ceramic hybrid bearings the same way that casting reels do. Primarily because the spool does not spin and develop the high speeds during the cast like the casting reel. One reason for upgrading to ceramics would be if you have a bad bearing and it needs replaced, but even then unless corrosion is an issue a good quality SS bearing is more than adequate. If you want your reel to perform at its full potential, send it to a pro for a good cleaning, you will like the difference it makes.

Norman NXD will get you there.

I have been using the Jackall Iobee frog for a few years now, one of the easiest to walk frogs out there. I also use the SPRO Bronze Eye Frogs on occasion.

I am running into inconsistencies in what the reel mfgs are reporting for line capacity and what this formula says the reel should hold. I am trying to get better information from the mfgs to see if it because of conversions from mm to inch and rounded numbers. For instance, using the numbers they report for capacity at 10lb test my math suggests that the spool would hold 116.25 yards of 65lb test PP line. On their website they report that the spool will hold only 80 yards of 65lb test PP line. Considerable difference. I will try to see where the math is off.

Another thing that you can do by using this technique is determine how much line a spool will hold of any line. Say you want to run 65lb braid on a reel and want to know what the capacity of the spool would be. You just figure your TCF with the information that your given on the spool. In the case of the Curado I that we used in our example above we know that the reel holds 155 yards of 10lb test mono line and 10lb test mono line has a diameter of .012. 155 X .012 = 1.86 You then take the diameter of the line you want to use, in this case 65lb Power Pro with a diameter of .016. You just divide your TCF by the diameter of the new line and it will tell you how many yards it will hold 1.86 / .016 = 116.25 The Curado I will hold 116.25 yards of 65lb Power Pro braid. It would be great if the reel manufacturers would adopt using TCF as a standard for rating their spools, then with simple math we would easily know how much line of any type a spool would hold.

Remember when your 7th grade math teacher said, "pay attention" now you know why.

That would work well.

This just about sums it up.

If that works for you then I would not change. It does suck though when you don't put enough backing on a reel and then spool the braid on and come up quite a bit short of filling the spool.

I would use no more than 75 yards of the braid and the appropriate amount of backing so that I could fill the reel at least twice. If it was going to be used primarily for pitching/flipping I would use no more than 50 yards of braid and the appropriate backing so that I could fill the reel three times.

What we commonly call a pegged T-Rig, is properly known as a Florida Rig. The Florida rig uses a weight screwed to the nose of the bait, or a weight pegged to the line at the nose of the bait. The rig was developed to fish heavy grass in Florida.

Don Shula

How much backing to use when using braided or other expensive line is a question that is asked often. Many people have come up with clever ways to get the job done, but they sometimes don't answer the question. Several years ago I was taught a method that uses a cheap line counter, basic math skills, information from the reel and line to come up with a very accurate answer. It may seem a little complicated at first but after you do it once or twice it is very easy. When I worked for Gander Mountain and would spool braided line onto new reels for customers this is the method that I would use. The first thing you need to know is what is the Total Capacity Factor (TCF) of the spool you are filling. This information is right on the box of the reel, sometimes it is even printed right on the reel itself. In this example lets use the new Curado I, as it is a very popular reel right now. The spool of the Curado I holds 155 yards of 10lb test mono. line. We need one more piece of information to determine our TCF, the diameter of 10lb test mono. Mono line are fairly consistent in diameter and you can use a common line to get this information. For this example I chose Suffix Elite Mono, and it has a diameter of .012. To figure the TCF we simply multiply the capacity of the reel by the diameter of the line. 155 yards X .012 diameter = 1.86 So our TCF for this reel is 1.86 In this example we are going to determine how much mono backing we will require if we want to spool our reel with 55 yards of 50lb test Power Pro braid. The next thing we need to figure is our Braided Line Capacity (BLC) it is very easy to figure this, all that is required to know is how much braided line you want to put on the spool and its diameter. For our example we are using 55 yards of 50 lb test Power Pro braided line and it has a diameter of .014, the diameter comes right off the box. To figure BLC we just multiply the yards of braided line we want to use by the diameter of that line. 55 yards X .014 diameter = 0.77 So we now know what our Total Capacity Factor (TCF) is and our Braided Line Capacity (BLC) the only thing we have left to figure is how much backing to put on the reel so our 55 yards of braided line fill it perfectly. The way we do this is to Subtract the BLC from the TCF or 1.86 - 0.77 = 1.09, this is the Remaining Capacity Factor (RCF). To finish the job we just need to know the diameter of the backing line that we are going to use, in this case we are going to use 20lb test Suffix Elite Mono with a diameter of .018. We then divide the RCF by the line diameter of the mono. backing line. 1.09 / .018 = 60.5. We need 60.5 yards of 20lb Suffix Elite mono and 55 yards of 50lb test Power Pro braid to properly fill the spool. As I originally said, it seems a little complicated at first, but if you work through it even a couple of times you will see how simple it really is. One of you smart guys could probably whip out a spread sheet that could make this very easy. Good Luck.

I think if the QB wants protection under the rules, then he needs to remove himself from the play, trailing the play like he did makes him a tackler in my opinion and open to legal blocks.

Walleye guys like to be as precise as possible and have went to great lengths to determine diving curves for crankbaits. My point was to show that there is a science behind it, but in the end the only way you will know is to tie a bait on and try.

With shallow crankbaits it makes only a few inches difference to use straight FC as apposed to straight braid. In testing crankbaits only reach their maximum depth when cast at least 100 feet. It is difficult to know the exact amount of difference it will make but if you use the conclusions reached in the book "Precision Casting" they state that crankbaits using 8lb test mono ran 20% deeper than crankbaits cast on 14lb test mono, they also state that crankbaits using 20lb mono ran 10% less deep than crankbaits using 14 lb test. So it would probably be safe to say the small amount of difference between 10 lb braid (.006) and 10 lb FC (.010) would fall somewhere between 10 and 20 percent. If you figure a shallow square bill designed to run at a max depth of 3 feet or 36 inches and do the math, you are looking at a depth difference somewhere between 3-7 inches when cast at least 100 feet. This is not exact because it does not take into consideration the difference in density between FC and braided lines and the original tests were conducted using the same type of line. Also you are planning on using a leader and these numbers probably represent what may occur if using line with no leader. But I feel safe saying that it should fall within that 10% window. With all of this said the only way you will know for sure is to tie on your bait and give it a try, no one is going to be able to give you an exact answer.

The Eagles as a team under Buddy Ryan were also notorious for these same tactics. Don't know how old you are so you might not remember Bounty Bowl I and II.

Some of the Bagley Kill R B crankbaits had large lips with a small lead weight on them. There are a couple of them that are small and get very deep. These baits only reach about 8ft.

dry

TSI 301 is extremely thin and only contains 10% of the lubricant that TSI 321 contains. It is also harmful to some plastics and will remove the anodizing from custom parts if it comes into contact with them. It is also expensive to have shipped because it is considered HAZMAT. TSI 321 is thicker but is a much better lubricant, it bonds well to metals and does not need frequent re application. It is easy to ship.

Bob, I have tried twice now to bow out of this conversation, so I am just going to say, I stand by my statements based on using the product for several years, I have tried using it in the same method that you would other oils and it just does not work for me when applied that way ( required frequent re oiling) . If it works for you I would not change. I can cast all of my personal reels between 35 and 45 yards easily and they are smooth and work wonderful using the method I suggested, I might have to re apply oil 1-2 times throughout the entire fishing season depending on how heavily I use the reel and the environment that it is used in. I choose to follow Alan Tani's methods as he is the expert on this product and while his site is heavy on Saltwater reels, many of the people that are asking questions about the TSI-321 are freshwater fishermen. There are many other sites with reputable users of the product that dip the bearings as well.

I rigged it on a VMC spinshot 1/0 hook with an 1/8th oz weight and 6lb FC line. I ran the hook in on the flat side, I move back off the head about a 1/4 inch and start the hook in the flat part of the bait until just the very tip of the hook is exposed. I had good luck with two colors, morning dawn and green weenie. I fish in clear water with a green tint, this bait worked well for me and was durable. I don't know if it is as good as the crosstail shad as I have never used them.

Been a while since I was on his site, the most current information that I can find on the subject (2014) is when a member here (OE) asked how Alan preferred to apply 321. His response was to lightly drip it into the bearing while slowly spinning it. Did not mention how much. Alan Tani is the guy that made these products popular, I would take his advice on this subject over anyone else, if this is the way he does it now, it will be the way I do it also. Here is an older link where he advocates dipping the bearing, seems he is still revising his methods. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3573.15

And this post was made three years later http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=9060.0 . There is a lot of information on the subject at his site if you spend more than a few minutes. The primary reason for dipping the bearings is corrosion prevention and the bonding properties of the 321, 1 drop of oil in the bearing is not going to offer much corrosion protection, if you let it sit, most of what does not bond run off or spins out. Anyway, we do it differently, let's leave it at that.

Seems like every conversation you have deteriorates into an argument. Well we have been through that and I have made it clear how I feel. Good Luck