Fishing can be as simple or complex as you prefer and the question can't be answered completely because few techniques/presentations and lures are universal for all aspects of bass fishing. Orobass touched on what might produce depending on where you fish. Where meaning what body of water, which state (Fl, Tx, NY), river or lake and what climate, which season, what time of day? Where meaning where fish locate themselves in a particular body of water different times of year, depth and cover type which dictate lure types and presentation.
Shoreline anglers that know nothing of the lake or river bottom they cast to are at a great disadvantage. So, owning a boat or other craft with sonar is number one before considering tackle choices. Learn thy water.
The truism of only 10% of a body water holding active fish is as true today as it was 70 years ago. Active meaning fish that can be provoked into striking an artificial creature it doesn't have a clue of what it is or represents. Your lure is not used to convince a fish of anything but to provoke it into striking. Even less active fish via reflex strikes are prone to striking because the trespasser (your lure) just happened to be in the wrong place at the right time. Thinking of lures in this way doesn't clutter your choices with trying to guess what their eating and more about a specific selection of lure actions that simply provoke a fish into striking,
As you've already seen, over a thousand lures are on the market but not all have properties for specific scenarios. Lure provoking properties I speak of involve fish senses of sight and sound. Hearing a lure is a small part of lure detection; feeling a lure is totally different and probably the most used physical sense a fish uses to detect a lure's location, speed, mass, motion and size (even in pitch black water at night). Vision adds to lure location perception and visual qualities such as color and flash, shape and minute motions. These qualities determine how irritable a fish is and prone to attacking by trying different lure types out.
You put fish location together with the proper lure selection to catch fish and you will eventually master lures that can provoke the strike at different times of day.
My suggestion would be to go light at first. Light lures and tackle force you to fish slower and shallower. Too many anglers don't know when to slow down or use lures that finesse a strike vs. provoking only a reflexive strike to cover more water faster. Sure, there will be some days when faster is useful, but there will be more days when slower produces the most strikes.
By light I mean 8 lb test braid with an 8 lb test leader. Braid cast light lures easily and sets the hook more effectively than mono at a longer distance and fluorocarbon line has properties that excel when it comes to abrasion resistance and lure action. The simple jig-rigged grub can catch almost any predator species in any body of water. The jig can be swam, jigged off bottom, pitched to target areas and worked in and near cover as well as fan cast over large flats. Once you get the jig/ grub bite down, you may have another rod rigged with a heavier skirted jig with action trailer. Again, different jig presentations work and in different waters and locations.
If possible fish with others. There is no better or faster way to be convinced of a lure's use and presentation than seeing it and knowing when and where it caught fish!
There will always be a combination to unlock any day's mystery of where fish are located and how to catch them. Only those that diversify properly and effectively catch more fish consistently. Opinions vary (and there are always opinions on any fishing forum that try to refute other opinions), but experience is key and confirmation of what works, when and where. You will be surprised at the consistencies you can count on in future outings as well as surprises from doing things out of the box from the norm. We play by their rules and not the other way around.