Two thnigs to consider:
As stated by Hank Parker, it doesn't cost anything to set the hook.
Second, you understand how the bites are transmitted to you so you will know when somelthing is "wrong."
From the bait through the line via the rod to your finger or hand to your eyes on the line you recieve information about what is going on with your bait.
If anything feels different, you set the hook.
I suggest you watch the Big Mouth videos to note how fast the bass can inhale your bait and then spit it out. This is why we use scent so the basss will retain your bait for an additional second or two.
Check out this one of the three videos and you will improve your hook sets.
Here are the web pages to locate clubs in your area:
FLW - https://www.bassfederation.com/about/state-federations/
BASS - https://www.bassmaster.com/content/join-bass-nation
Bass activity is controlled by water temperature, among other variables, but mostly water temperature.
When the water temperature is on the cold side, under 40*, the bass' metabolism slows down and they eat very little as they move very little.
When the water starts to warm the bass will become active and start to feed. (Remember, the north and western banks heat up the fastest in the mornings from morning sunlight)
Here is a simple chart regarding how long it takes for a bass to digest a minnow from the late and great Ken Cook who passed away in 2016. Ken won the 1991 Bassmaster Classic and is one of the top 50 all time BASS pros based on winnings and tournament placements.
Ken graduated from Oklahoma State with a degree in zoology and his studies of the bass continued during his lifetime.
I was fortunate to hear Ken give a fantastic presentation on bass behavior at the old Bassmaster University seminars. Here is what Ken told us:
Bass are cold blooded and optimistic predators. With that in mind, here is the Speed of Metabolism chart Ken presented:
TEMPERATURE DAYS/HOURS TO DIGEST A MINNOW
40* 8 Days
50* 7 Days
60* 2 and a Half Days
70* 24 Hours
80* and Higher 18 Hours
The most efficient temperature is between 73* and 75*.
So to directly answer your query: It depends on the water temperature and the amount of forage the bass can eat as the water gets warmer into spring and summer. Add to this the length of time the water temperature was on the "cold side" in January, February, and March and you can figure out how aggressive the bass will be after a "hard winter."
The longer and colder the winter the more forage the bass will be seeking to eat.
So take this information and parlay it into your spring fishing. Good luck.
The only way you are going to change the homeowners associations position is to try to have someone from Virginia Game and Inland Fisheries present a program on pond management to the entire membership and follow the conservation officer's recommendations.
After hearing the presentation the membership can consider what to do regarding good pond management, if anything at all.
If VG&IF will not present a program on pond management then you will have to find a professional pond management company or call Virginia State University's fisheries department to find someone willing to meet with your association members.
Otherwise, no matter what you say or do the neighbors will stick to the catch and release position.
I did not take the time to read everyone's posts above but I will give you my advice on baitcaster backlashes.
Once upon a time at the old Bassmaster University seminar, one of the pros showed us the method to avoid baitcaster backlashes.
You do this every time you change baits, in a boat or on the bank. Every time.
Set up your rig making sure the reel's line test matches your rod's line test and bait weight.
Point tip of rod to 11 AM and drop the line.
Your goal, after a few tries, will be to have the line stop as the lure hits the ground or bottom of the boat.
By doing this the spool will stop when the bait hits the water.
Using your spool tension and drag you can set up your baitcaster for each bait you will be throwing.
Once you get the hand of this you can throw a buzzbait all day long and never get a backlash. In fact, you can stop the buzzbait right above the water's surface and start your retrieve immediately.
Just remember to do this every time you change your baitcaster's lure.
In nature, real, live frogs usually travel on top of the water, lily pads and grass.
Sometimes they do swim underwater but mostly they swim on top.
The bass know frogs swim on top and therefore will not think anything is wrong when they see a plastic frog on top of the water acting strange or injured.
Since frogs can swim underwater, too, an underwater swimming frog should also present a natural appearance to bass. However, I would think a frog on the surface would be a better and easier target to a bass and it is a natural presentation.
Yes, big time. You can lose that monster bass if you do not have the correct hook for your bait and technique.
You want the hook to be stable in your plastic and have enough hooking power to tag the bass and hold it on the hook. Some guys like to have the hook at the end of the plastic. Others in the middle. Some don't think it matters.
Lay your plastic down and place the hook below it and see where the point will emerge on the top of the bait. Then decide if that is the correct size, style and weight for the bait, your presentation and if you are fishing structure, cover or a flat bottom. Just remember you need to balance the hooking power with the plastic's natural movement.
Hooks will add "weight" to your bait that can help or hinder the bait's action.
There are "light wire" hooks and "heavy wire" hooks and each has a place in your arsnel.
Using a light wire hook will not give you the penetration you may need to get the hook through a fat plastic and into the bass' mouth. But it will have less effect on your bait's action.
There are no "standards in the fishing industry so what one manufacturer calls a 2/0 hook may not be the same size of another company's 2/0 hook. This is why we all have our favorites and stick with them.
For Havoc's and Ika's you need a heavy wire hook. For the drop shot a light wire hook. In between you can use anything you want.
I wish there was a simple answer but the guys and gals on this site have their favorite hooks and you will bet bombarded about "this hook and that hook, etc."
Experiment. That is part of the fun of bass fishing.
Think about your presentation; view any YouTube videos you can find on specific techniques; check out Glenn's YouTube productiions - they are outstanding; read about what hooks and techniques the pros use in books and magazines; watch weekend fshing shows to note the tackle the pros and even Zona use (when he shuts up); and talk with the guys in your favorite tackle shop about what hooks they use for what presnetations.
Just remember each company's hooks are not identical to other hooks and sooner or later you will have your favorite hooks for different presentations.
I like Owners for treble hooks and Gammy's for all others although I do have many brands and styles in my tackle box.
And remember the hooks' points can get dull after a few fish so always be sure the hooks are the sharpest at all times and on't be afraid to change them out as you fish during the day.
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