(='_'=)

for around $7 i spent on materials, i think this one works very good. or you can always buy this on for 20 times as much hahaha http://www.cabelas.com/product/Auto-ATV/Auto-Interior/Fishing-Rod-Racks|/pc/104796180/c/104697180/sc/104329980/Rodmounts-RodLoft-PRO8482-Rod-Holder/737406.uts?destination=%2Fcategory%2FFishing-Rod-Racks%2F104329980.uts&WTz_l=Unknown%3Bcat104329980 thanx!

i use a bungee cord on the front, tied to the grab handles... if it gets tight enough, it lightly pushed the rods against the ceiling, preventing them from moving much... thanx!!

thanx. thats correct. the only thing i need to load are the rods, which are always at home. they only stay on the truck if i went fishing one evening and will go again the next morning. but normally i unload them after getting home.

well, i have been fishing a lot lately, or at least trying to, and i was getting tired of having to load/unload the tackle every day. so i came up with these, a tool/tackle box, and a rod holder. jut wanted to share, maybe someone will find it useful. the tackle lives in the box, i just remove the rods if im not going again the next day...

once i had a locking pin fail. i pulled the boat 2 hours to a lake, fished all day, and when i was returning home, i noticed something was wrong. i got down and the trailer was hanging from the chains... fortunately this happened within 10 minutes from the ramp and we were still on a dirt road... i was able to find the pin, but not the locking part. so i put the hitch in place, put the pin, and tied it with ziplocks in place. im not sure if somebody messed with it, but i dont think so, as its a private ramp and i had never had any issue leaving the trailer there. however, if it was not installed properly it would have failed in the morning. so, i dont know what happened there...

thanx!! ill do that then, i already have the glue and standard tips but ill see if i can get me the micro instead....

hey.... some time ago i got me a Falcon Bucoo micro guide rod, which i use for cranks. last time i got it out, i noticed the tip guide lost its center ceramic piece. so the tip ss now only a metal ring. so, how do i fix it? i have this kit that has several tips, but i dont think they are micro guides. anyways, if i were to put one of those tips, how do i remove the old one? do i just heat it? i was thinking on using a hair dryed in order not to overheat the rod and melt it ( i have done it before with carbon arrows when i was into archery). thank you,

i thought i had replied in here, i guess my reply got deleted because it was advertising a store?? anyways it was the same store mentioned above, only i had included the webpage....

well, after working on it for the better part of last week, heres what i have now. first of all i made a trailer: then i made and installed pontoons. they made a huge difference, now we can fish 2 people standing up, and we can even lean to one side without a problem. then i made rod holders, installed an old fish finder, and made 5 shelves to put the 3700 trays so they are not laying around in the bottom. im in the process of carpeting the benches:

i used to work at Ford, and the motors came out of the factory tested, there was a machine that would test each one, turn it on and run it for some time. of course it didnt take 2 or 3 hours(i dont know whats the break in period for an outboard), but, the quantity of motors we produced was way higher than the quantity of outboards sold, so im thinking a similar machine could break it in perfectly. if i was going to purchase a new motor, and assuming the break in period is 2 hours running continuously, considering all the expenses i guess i would prefer to pay $500 extra and receive the motor ready to fish. considering tow vehicle gas (closes lake where i can run for 2 hours non-stop is about 1.5 hours away), outboard gas, oil, and time (time is also money), it add up quickly.... maybe not 1200, but 500 i would definitely pay for that work and the peace of mind knowing if anything happens, its not my fault and the warranty wont be voided because i didnt break it in properly...

thats a good point, i hadnt considered the labor cost...

well, i know some "new" rifles come with a group shot from them to test for accuracy, and they are still "new"... if i was going to get a new motor, and i had the 2 options, i would definitely prefer one with 10 hours of use, which i know were used by an expert to break it in, rather than a new ZERO hours motor, which i need to break in anyways, risking not doing it properly...

if all the motors need a break in period, why doesnt the manufacturer breaks them in before selling them?? just curious....

totally off topic here, but, thats also incorrect. a .410 bore would be a 67-68 gauge, meaning you could take a pound of lead, make 67 lead balls with a .410 diameter, and still have some lead remaining, but not enough for another ball. do the math, its simple.

my 3 biggest have been caught using a spinnerbait, either white or chartreuse

actually I do.... at least i went out fishing!!

well, the motor is an old 85 HP Johnson, from 1980 or so... the old pump was leaking, it was sealed so i couldnt replace a gasket or anything. it was leaking bad, so i inspected it and saw it said UNIVERSAL FUEL PUMP, it was similar to this one: so, i removed t and got another universal fuel pump, it looks like this one: i didnt think about GPH at the time, i just installed what i had, it was sunday and autozone was the only store opened. the problem is i live 2 hours from my boat and i can only work on it saturday afternoon and sundays. therefore i have to do most of the work myself. so, do you know which pump do i need?? is it a special pump that goes inside the motor? or maybe a smaller universal pump like those above?? i dont know the output f the old one, it didnt say anything except universal fuel pump, same as the new one.... so, assuming the pump is sending too much pressure or volume, shouldnt the primer bulb get hard and stay hard?? it doesnt, as much as i pump it, it will never get totally hard, and when i run the boat the primer bulb will get empty... to me that indicates air in the system... however, i cant see the leak, the hoses seem OK and there is no evident leak....

last time i used my boat, the electric fuel pump was leaking, so i got one from autozone and replaced it. im not really sure bassboats use this same pumps, but the one that leaked said "universal fuel pump" and thats what i got, one of those you install externally on cars. after that, i noticed the engine was not running properly. it would start quickly, but when i accelerated, it would gain speed for the first 10-15 seconds and then it would stop accelerating. it never stopped completely, but it did slow down considerably, and it didnt matter if i was going at WOT or barely faster than idle, the speed would be the same and it would have bursts of speed and then slow down again. i thought the filter was dirty and maybe the engine was not getting enough fuel, so i replaced it, and also cut a section of gas that seemed to have a small leak, i though the engine was getting air instead of gas. however, the problem continued. i had trouble starting it once, and when i opened the motor i noticed the carbs were leaking gas. after i let it sit for about 15 minutes, i started quickly again, but the problem persisted. i also noticed the hand pump was not getting hard, it didnt matter how much i pumped it, it wouldnt get completely full. from the fuel tank first i have the filter, then the hand pump, then the electric pump. could it be the pump it sending TOO MUCH fuel?? or should i replace all the hoses to eliminate a possible air leak that could be letting air in the motor?? thanx!!

same here.... rainy days and a white spinnerbait have almost always produced good numbers...

i think thats the one, thanx!!

as the title says.... some time ago i saw a members signature, that said something about practicing C&R because you are giving a gift to another fisherman, and maybe the fish you just caught is a gift somebody else gave you.... but i cant remember who it was nor can i find the exact quote... if someone could help me with that, i would really appreciate it. thanx!!

and where is the picture??

i used to wonder the same, until i fished here: we were catching the fish right in the middle of the trees, so anything under 50# braid was just useless. in fact the first day i had my worm rod spooled with 30# braid, which is what i normally use in our local lakes with a 12# leader. the first day i just removed the leader, but that night i removed the line and spoled with 50#.... when we got snagged we could pull hard and most of the times we would straighten the hook... with lower # we would be loosing a lot of line, hooks and sinkers, not to count the fish that got tangled in the branches...

i know, but that was the Tm that came with the boat (we got it basically for free), and since it worked, we didnt change it as we had to fix a lot of other things....now that we fixed the motor, painted, carpeted, and used the boat for a couple of seasons, i may change the TM... if i ever get a jon boat i may end up putting the 30# in it and get a bigger one for the bassboat...

thanx. i have not heard about the "digital" vs non-digital TM so ill check that out. the TM i have on the bassboat is very old, in fact it may get replaced this season. its 12V and i think its only like 30#, and with that one i would move the bassboat in this lake when they still allowed it. so, with 2 people, tackle, gas, and the 85 HP motor hanging on the back, sometimes that tiny TM was enough. this lake is really small, i can and have rowed from one side to the other in an inflatable kayak in 15 minutes. however i do want a boat because there are some parts that are impossible to reach from the bank, so i would be basically the only one fishing there, and those parts used to produce in the past. a kayak is another option but i normally dont like fishing alone.... thanx.