Will Wetline

When I first started wacky rigging 4" and 5" Senkos I used heat shrink tubing and inserted the hook through the 1/4" - 3/8" length of tubing so it was perpendicular to the length of the bait. This worked fine although if I was in too much of a hurry to remove it from a deeply hooked bass, I'd cut the worm on the edge of the tubing. Then I came across Wacky Saddles. These are gizmatics comprised of two O rings with a web of rubber between them so I can still rig the hook perpendicularly. This is what I use now. However, I had debated two other long-experienced bassmasters about the perpendicular vs. inline orientation. Seemed to me that logic dictated perpendicularity; these two guys said, "Stop worrying about it!" I eventually tried the single O ring/inline arrangement, got bit twice and landed both fish. So I say to you: "Take your pick." I'm sticking with the Wacky Saddles . . . or - I haven't tried these yet but they come highly recommended - http://www.ecoprotungsten.com/pro-wacky-weight/

Good read. Thanks.

Here's a favorite pic of a 4.5 lb. smallie which is a decent fish, of course, but memorable because It took a bait I had doubts about: the Duo Realis Spin Bait 80. This is an unusual looking lure which I researched fairly extensively and then decided to spend $12.99 on (in 2013) and try it out using the presentation I had read about and watched on video: 7' ML rod (St. Croix Avid) and light fluoro (6 lb. Sunline Sniper on a Stradic 2500). This was my first fish on the Spin Bait! It's been a go-to bait for two years now.

Well, you can't buy just one of each, of course, so I bought multiples of: Bevy Shads in 3 colors Fat CB GDS MINIs in 2 colors and Slim Shad D-7s in 3 colors. I'm confident that smallies will be pleased to meet them and eat them.

Thank you! Couldn't pass up assorted LC baits @ $4.99. May I send my credit card bill to you?

I like 'em.

Yeah, I buy some of the latest and greatest in baits (Gotta get me some Shadow Rap Shads!) and have collected way more gear than I'll ever need. What's important is that I'm enjoying all fishing related activities. I don't have to pre-order say, a Duo Realis Pencil Popper - I've got plenty of topwater baits already. I'll do this one from Duo in due time. I also don't have to have a bigger boat or catch more and bigger fish than you do. I'm well satisfied with the size and number I catch from a rental boat on my home water. Being relaxed rather than driven is the way to go. I'll go so far as to say you'll be a better fisherman if you don't get neurotic about it. So what changed to make me lighter and brighter? Experience and maturity. I can look back five decades as a fisherman and remember the days when I had a "Gotta get 'em!" attitude. I'm having more fun now - and catching more fish. So. . . Go fishing, all. Bring your sense of humor.

They're all going to catch fish. I'm guessing you come from a fly tying background - no one ties jigs that neatly or as well proportioned right off the bat.

Perfect execution on that tie.

Guys, the Danville that OE and smalljaw67 use has worked fine for me too. I also use UNI-Thread in 6/0 and 3/0 as well as Ultra Thread in 140 and 210 denier. (Don't waste money on GSP - it's not needed because you don't need to crank down with extreme tension, right?) After I've tied off I saturate the wrap with a drop or two of thin super glue. Don't get carried away with this stuff. It helps to keep a scrap of paper towel handy to absorb any excess. Topcoat with penetrating head cement or Hard As Nails or topcoat the entire head including the wraps if you want a gloss on the collar. I buy thread in one of the many fly shops where I go steelhead fishing or from Barlow's: http://www.barlowstackle.com/Thread-Tinsel-Ribbing-Cord-Wire-and-Floss-C167.aspx The 1/8 oz. jigs in the photo below were tied with UNI-Thread 6/0 and Ultra Thread 140 denier. You may find general information that's helpful in this post from a couple of years ago:

Ghost Gill Komochi Wakasagi

I'd like to encourage everyone who wants to go on a clean up campaign and get organized. Put your mind and your mop to it and persevere! Here are before (2012) and after (2016) photos

Yet more outstanding work from CJ!

Yes, that's from Do-It's Poison Tail mold as well as the two skirted jigs at the top. There are two more above the ball on the left. I filled the cavity to eliminate the ring and barb and bedded Owner Centering Spring Pins in epoxy.

A tackle room is an angler's refuge. It's a place to shut out the clamor and clutter of everyday life and turn thoughts to fishing tackle. Join me on a tour of my Fortress of Solitude. I designed and built this bench and shelf unit for R/C model construction. It now accommodates a miscellany of articles of interest to the lure builder/fisherman. The tackle boxes, used for storage now, give you an idea how long I've been wetting line. The Old Pal on the floor was purchased circa 1965. It was my second tackle box. Couldn't pass up this steel locker at a tag sale. Face shield, goggles and 3M respirator with organic vapor cartridges are on the top shelf. The middle shelf holds Do-It molds with hangers detached and I.D. labels on the end of the handles. Non lead alloys are boxed on the bottom along with the Lee Production Pot IV. This solid oak rod rack, sold by Cabela's, is better finished than most of my furniture. There are more than a few feathers in the cabinets on the top shelf. The Sterilite shoe boxes await filling with the packages of soft plastics on the floor to the right. I'm sure you're familiar with the footprint of 3700 boxes, but maybe not with the big plastic box below. I bought it from a big office supply company which had it mislabeled, "sliding letter/legal file box." How could they not have noticed that it holds six Plano 3700s perfectly? It's my office afloat! The utility carrier (see sunscreen and MegaStrike sticking out) also fits in the 14' aluminum rental boat that takes me to where the smallies swim. A fan blocked in by a double layer of 1" insulation foam is essential if you're using vinyl paint. Use it when you're molding jigs or spraying mold release. All fumes including super glue and flatulence will go out the window. How about this slide-on stainless steel bench top? Friend and bassmaster, Fred, a fine craftsman of many materials, fabricated this from a hood that once hung over a commercial oven. Here's where everything comes together. Good lighting is a great friend to the craftsman. Not shown is the full spectrum desk lamp that I use when tying flies and jigs. Magnetic strips work well for tight-packing tools. Before I stack any more Sterilite 3 drawer components cabinets, I'd better check my town's building codes for a height limit. I'll leave you with a photo of some of the products - (Aargh! I forgot to sprinkle some steelhead flies into the picture!) - that leave this room and find their way into a fish's jaw.

You've got the chops for tying hair jigs, no question. If I didn't look closely (and know better) to see the threads in the collars, I'd think you had pushed the hair into tubing. Do you have bionic parts that enable you to tie that consistently?

That'll get 'em.

Excellent report, Paul.

Thank you, Paul. Those are the 3/16" 3D adhesive eyes recommended by Barlow's for their 5/8 oz. Vibrating Blade Bait. I like eyes on a bait. They add a spot of contrasting color and please my aesthetic sensibilities. (Well la-de-da, hey!) I don't think the fish care one way or another.

What I wanted was a greater range of movement for the hook. I tried a size 5 oval ring that I had on hand but that was not quite long enough to permit the hook to swing up over the tail of the bait. I wanted this distance because I wanted to tie a thin strip of foam material which would float the hook. Have not found the right foam yet. Sparse bucktail looks good but while bath tub testing, found it dampens vibration somewhat. Let me leave it with you this way: Come late April I'll be testing . . . testing . . .

You're looking at what was once a Gamakatsu G Finesse treble attached by a size 6 oval split ring. I would have used a less expensive hook but the ring in the other brands I had on hand didn't align with the ring properly. I'll report on how this arrangement works in a couple of months.

Here's a link to Barlow's "Vibrating Blade Lure": http://www.barlowstackle.com/Vibrating-Blade-Lure-P2631.aspx and here's a photo of one I assembled: Crestliner2008's description of how to work this bait is right on the money. And you will hang a few in a day's fishing which is why it makes sense to buy Barlow's blanks and assemble a bunch yourself.

First I've gotta tell ya you're tying is immaculate. Now I don't mean to be critical or cantankerous, but it's not quite spybaiting unless your retrieve is dead slow and that lead body is rocking side-to-side. The whirring of the prop may add interest. If I were retrieving it I'd grip the rod firmly because I'd be expecting a big bite! Fine, creative craftsmanship, CJ.

I throw crankbaits less often than any other category of lure, but when I do it's likely to be one of Rapala's DT series.

Here are a few of Quabbin Reservoir in central Massachusetts: