bigbassctchr101

I use the high speed for traps, frogs, pitchin, and c-riggin. I don't like to use it on my bottom contact baits like t-rigs and jigs. Only because I feel like I fish them too fast anyway. When its comes to 27-29" of line per every turn of the handle, that would translate into about 3-4 ft of line everytime I moved the rod up and down. That's a lot of territory I'd be skippin over. Thats my fault and a failure of my patience, and realistically, moving to a 6.1:1 with 24" of line every crank, isn't much different. Its a mind thing for me. At one point in time, a 5.1:1 was a high speed reel. But I think 7.9:1 are out now. You could get by with anything and make it work, because everyone did before these higher speeds came out. It can just make things more proficient. When every cast counts, it could help out a lot.

I've caught several fish several times by picking out a backlash, or dropping my rod to net a buddies fish, putting a dip in my mouth, all while doing nothing to the bait and coming back to have a fish on the other end. I know that has nothing to do with what your technically asking...but if I wouldn't have bought that skoal, ..... lol

Very true... I was referring to page 2 about the spool weight. I read somewhere else about this same guy doing tests with various reels and lure weights and scientifically measuring the distances. He seemed to do a decent job with eliminating as many variables as he could help. Still not set in stone proof. But very interesting. If I was able to choose any spool types for any applications, I would choose a lighter ported spool for anything that is pitched, casted under the weights of 1/2 ounce (the lighter the bait, the more difference I think you'd see between lighter and heavier spools), and I like heavier spools for my deep diving crankbaits ==> It probably has hardly anything to do with distance casted, but more so to do with the type of spools that are usually in a beefier geared set up more prone to being used with my cranking. Being able to cast far has a lot more to do with spool weight. Brake set up, rod loading, bearing type or quality, free spool, and several other factors come into play. And they all work together. On the other hand, the same can be said for pitching and casting short distances lol

Sounds to me like the AR bearings have the wrong type of lubrication on them. In colder temps this may cause it to not work correctly. If you are able to clean out and service your reels often, I only run hot sauce oil with only a very small amount of hot sauce grease in the AR's. In the winter I have the time to service my reels a lot. It may not be needed, but I only use oil over all my reels (except for small amounts on reel gears and worm gears). DVT or JFrncho would probably be able to answer why and what to do better.

Not sure if I can legally post this, (sorry if I can't) http://super-tuning.home.mindspring.com/i1.html This talks about super tuning. But as far as casting distance goes it is a really good read and will really allow a paerson to grasp what the smaller functions of a reel are. Beware though...its tough on the eyes! lol

In what way is it cheating though? And why lose respect for anyone? Noone called the guy with the first reel on a cane pole a cheater? Or when braid came out? Sensitive rods? And if you lost respect for him you probably should lose it along with about 30 other guys that had one. The way I look at it, it wasn't cheating. If anything it was a loop hole in the rule book...one that will be fixed and one that I'd be willing to bet will be fixed to ALLOW the use of this rig. In my opinion, if the top ten finishers of the first tournament were using the Hydrowave, I bet people would call it cheating and stuff too,not because its breaking any rules, but only because ... People will have their own opinions, and I can always respect anyones opinion out there. I just think its a little uncalled for to call someone a cheat. And maybe I just have a lot of respect for a person that makes their living fishing because I only WISH that I could, so I want to try and defend their honor when I can, especially when they can not. I've already tried making one to use; I want to see what the fuss is all about. It works, there is no doubt. But it will not be the cure all. People will pay $50- and more for this and will never ever catch a fish on it. Because there is nothing special about it other than a very intelligent and proficient way to mimick a school of baitfish. I think this rig is only a fad. But so was the KVD crank baits and the chatterbaits (for that matter spinnerbaits, jelly worms, and everything else that "changed" fishing as we know it)... but they did and still will catch fish. I think its overpriced as it stands, but people will pay it, so congrads to someone that realized that. Sorry if I stepped on toes or anything. I hope the guy makes a fortune on it before the corporations take hold of it. I also hope that anyone that hates it because of all the fish it will "make you catch", gets to use it and then realizes it has almost nothing to do with the rig, but the location and the way you use it.

Who knows... The original rule was if 3 or more baits were being use on one line the hooks could be no larger than #6's. I guess its a decent compromise.

TWRA amended the rule for Tennessee. We'll be able to throw it...with 3 hooks of any size. The other two baits would not be able to have hooks.

I have several older abus that have no brakes in them at all that I cast 1ounce bucktails with....I also have a citica that I took out all the pins and the brass collar that I throw 2.5 squarebills on. The brakes are not needed at all, neither one of them (magnetic or centrifigal pins). The cast control knob doesn't do anything on these reels except keep the spool from knocking back and forth on the reel casing. But, on almost all my other reels, I can let a lure fly, switch hands while its in the air, and simply hit my thumb on the spool when it hits the water. Maybe not needed, but surely appreciated!!!!

I really like my patriachs as well. I have 3 and use them in completely different ways...when throwing traps I use only the mags. The cent brake pins were keeping my casts limited, with the mag brake I feel like I have a free spool with only that added bit of friction when I need it there the most. When throwing frogs, I use only cent. brakes. I don't know exactly why, but it works out well for me. I think its more because of the way the braking works when roll casting, and skipping frogs and possibly the larger line diameter has a hand in it. I have two curados and like them both, I use every other brake on the E7, but I use no braking pins on the E5 unless I am in the wind, which I still only use 1. After adding only 2 brakes on the E5 my cast would decrease. I'm using an 8' rod that loads up great, but it will cast a mile. So I'm happy with my 1-0 brake pins...although I think if I had the dual braking system I could just turn it up a notch and find a happier medium like the patriachs. I have found that a down side to a pin system is that sometimes after many years the pins can come lose, especially after changing your settings with the brake collars alot and repeated and repeated use and cleanings...this has caused some wearing and grooving in the brass brake ring. I've only have a couple reels do this, pflueger trion, shimano citica, and a calcutta. I guess it probably don't happen with everyone though. On the flip side, I've also had a magnet come our of the patriach when I first recieved it...I bought it used however so its hard to know how it actually happened... But, I have serviced many black and silver maxes and they were missing 1-3 magnets in them. (Usually the person using the reel never knew) I think you can easily train yourself to use minimal inertia braking by practicing with different reels, lines, and rods with the baits you will be using.... A combo used for close quarter pitching is not going to benefit as much as one used with lipless baits and spinner baits etc...

I use braid for frogs, (hollowbody and moving type) and sometimes on a c-rig. I like the sensitivity on the c-rig, I do not personally like the non stretch factor of it when fishing the c-rig however...I fish in places I get hung up a lot and the bow and arrow technique just doesn't work the same as mono. I also have to use a bigger diameter leader because I break off on a hookset with light line. I do like the non stretch part when fishing a frog, for hook ups, long distance hooksets, and just being able to toss in cover and know your going to get it back. I use flourocarbon on texas rigs and jigs. The sensitivity is pretty good. I seem to have problems at times with knots biting into itself and breaking and I don't find the same abrasion resistance as with mono... To me it seems like when the top coating is broke, the line is surely going to break. This is why I will not throw flouro on a crankbait. I find flouro to be much stiffer (non limp) unless you buy limp line which I find to have even less abrasion resistance... Most will not have this opinion about flouro...I may be in the minority,or just had many bad experiences, but its how I view it. I use mono for most of my fishing. One...the cost. But even if cost didn't matter I would personally prefer mono for any moving baits that sensitivity is not absolutely the most important factor. Topwater (other than frogs) because it won't sink a bait as bad. Spinnerbaits and crankbaits I actually prefer a little stretch in my line. I can find a wider variety of lines easier... I may have the exact same rod, reel, and bait on my deck but one may have 17lb mono and one may have 10lb mono (especially true in fall and spring when fishing a trap) Also, again with the price...but I can get a limper type line with some abrasion resistant in the same pound test and know how they are going to perform without paying a fortune for it.

Won't be any problem. I use line thats at least 5 yrs old. Keep it stored out of sunlight, and at a cool constant temp...(basement, closet, etc..) No worries.

Sent you an IM

I agree with this... BUT, searching in a tackle store is sometimes the problem. They just cannot carry every size of every brand. Almost all of them can usually order one in for you though. Most people just simply have < 5 rods so they try to get a rod that is more "ALL PURPOSE", the rods in the 7'ish range usually fit their needs better than others.

You think the same thing would have happened it you wasn't using as much drag??? ---Sorry, i just actually read that. Do you think they would have the same results if they did not use as much? Or will braid always do that under a certain strain if connected directly to the spool? If the bending of the spool only took 15lbs, and the striper is pulling 15lbs, will you have a bent spool wether the drag is set properly or not?

Just wondering...But did you do this by fishing. Or trying to pull in a snag?

The deals are out there.. I bought an E5 and an E7 two weeks ago from a member on here for $150 total. But, they are rare and you have to jump with no hesitation when you find it. The main part of our froggin season is over, not sure if yours is or not. But, if you can wait to buy, the winter time is always a great way to pass the time on the forums. There are a lot of great deals with people getting rid of the old to go buy the new. I have several pro qualifiers and they are a great reel. They perform in a very high bracket. I'd ALMOST venture to say they are as good at casting and retrieve as the shimanos (especially sense you typically loose that buttery flow when throwing heavy braid with a frog), but the curados are made much better and lighter. The components in them will out last the PQ's and other lower end reels. (You can find curados all day long for $105-$110 right now though if you can't wait) It'd be worth saving up your fast food money for a couple days to splurge on them if you could.

Anglers choice marine... they may be a good place to start. I'm sure if you do a little searching you will find some on the net though. This was just one place I remember seeing after a few boats were listed on their sites. I don't think there is nothing wrong with financing a boat. Has nothing to do with status...I'd much rather pay a monthly payment on a boat than I would a truck. If your priorities are in line, its noones business where your debt is and why you have it. I personally cant wait to go in debt on a new bass boat when the time is right.

He is basically saying that, but, when you tie it to something with a bit of added tension it will help it feed correctly. Make sure when your reeling the line on the reel that your holding your reel flat. It may not seem like much, but having the left side turned down will sometimes result in more line on the left side and less on the right and the reverse if you hold it down to the right.....its a gravity thing You can use that in your favor too, if you have more on the left side, hold your right side plate to the ground and keep spooling up until its back to even. The best method I use it similar to tying off to a tree or post aftr spooling up... but just works easier. You can use a rag with line conditioner like this too. But, make sure your line is going between the pages of a book, and stack a couple books on top of it so you have constant steady pressure. Keep your reel facing the line and keep it flat. If you still have issues, You probably have made your knot on the spool too big. (you can tape the line on the spool and this may help that problem) OR- you may have something catching in your worm gear.

Man.... That one makes me wanna cry. Thats pretty rough.

I knew I used a lot...but I could think of about twenty more lol I guess thats a bad thing on my part.

I've had the bottom drop out of you, stomach hit the ground, gutfeeling many times... Here's some things that'll get ya. Trying to get your boat motor to start for close to an hour before...... you figure out the kill switch is attached to your jacket. Pulling up off the ramp to see your boat floating away with noone in it because you unhooked the winch. Tossing your buddies keys to him from boat to boat just to hear a ....ka plunk. Not being able to figure out why your entire butt end of the boat is submerged under water and not coming off the trailer....until you hear, did you unhook the boat???? A cold early winter morning when your pumped up about that first really good jerkbait bite, until you step down in the floor and get ready to take off and hear a splash. Thats when you realize you forgot to screw in the plug. Hot summer night when that buzzbait bite is rockin', you decide to take off across the cove to hit another shaded night bank. You hit the hot foot and get a big spray of water all over you!!! The trolling motor is in the water. I may not have done all of these....most of them I do admit lol. But I have witnessed all and many more! How about you guys?

I like the article, very imformative... How about the excalibur or manns wake baits, or the smaller non jointed ones (crankbait billed). When do you guys use these? Same way and same conditions as the big swimbaits/wakebaits?

I could see it being useful if you needed more weight in a tighter space. But, the butt ends look to be the same size as most other rod butts. Its a good idea,and I agree, a well balanced rod feels better than a lighter non balanced in most cases. The use of Tungsten is probably not needed however. But as a business, I ain't gonna say its a bad idea to incorporate it into the rod or into the selling slogan. I actually thinks its smart as a business...why not get as many people as you can to jump on the Tungsten train? lol Hopefully the people that buy won't be getting the rod because they think it will transit extra sensitivity because tungsten is being used.

I'd be willing to buy several of them off of you when your willing to sale? Message me when you decide to.