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MattyIce

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Everything posted by MattyIce

  1. take a look at post Heat resistant tubes. Easy method explained that I use. Only a couple threads down
  2. I bake at 350* for 20 mins then dip in powder paint and then bake 20 more. Make sure you have a few wraps of foil around the weed guards. if you twist the top of the foil then so will the weed guards... so you can just fold over if you dont want the twist or fanning. I personally like to twist the top and get a twist in the guards.
  3. So what clears are some of the ones you guys use? I have tried most and the only thing I like is auto clear but its so darn toxic its scary. DN is just a pain along with any other moisture cure urethane. D2T is too heavy for cranks in my opinion and yellows... Brushing lacquers react with plastics... So I would like to know what some of you guys I look up to use if anyone is willing. :-/
  4. Pretty easy solution... I use regular joe schmo weedguards. I pour my lead with the weedguard in the mold then when i bake them I wrap tin foil around the weed guard from about half way up to the top. works like a charm! you can even twist the foil on and the weed guards will take the twist affect or you can fan ect. Play with it and have fun. Cheers Matt
  5. Nit to mention that's a rattle can paint job!!! You are amazing John!!!
  6. I am still a noob when it comes to painting but here is my experience..... My first brush I did what everyone told me and bought a good one... I bought an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS ($120) and love tha darn thing.... only problem is i seem to screw up the nozzle everytime i take it off and those are like $25 to replace...ok I kept droping them :-[ ... and not everytime but ruined 3 so far :-/. So that got me thinking and i looked around at some name brands to find one with cheaper parts but still a high quality brush... Found the Paasche Talon and bought it as i read good things about it. I was disapointed to say the least...Its a decent brush but nothing like my Iwata and about the same price ($100)... So, I would go Iwata but maybe the revolution series which is $70 and just be careful. That one from harbour Freight is a POS!
  7. Thanks guys....it was fun to make and yes just like everything about making your own baits I can see foiling is gonna be addictive! :-/ @ Big Bass Man.....I used the netting from a shower scrubber to create the 3D scales under the foil. Took 2 coats of epoxy to level it out though.
  8. My first foiled bait...
  9. The trim board I buy has very small ones and works great. It's a little less buoyant than balsa but more than like poplar. I recommend it!
  10. You can get PVC at lows or home depot if u have one near... What I get is PVC trim board u have to cut a flange off but it's still almost an inch wide and two high... Perfect imho
  11. An orbital or belt sander is nice to have too! Saves a lot of time sanding. I have the home depot orbital sander and it has been a workhorse for me.
  12. Those scales are pretty cool. Good job FW!
  13. Spine placement is the key difference right?
  14. Baits look great... Can I ask which circuit board that is? The g10 I get from mcmaster Carr is dull yellowish
  15. Where is the lure John? I see the pumpkinseed you are trying to copy.
  16. Great work
  17. Wow awesome!!!
  18. Hi Guys, My is Matt Moreau and I have been fishing for 20+ years, basically since I was a little tike. I would drag my grandfather down to the shore to catch whatever we could on a lake called New Melones. I bought my first boat, Monarch Tri-hull at 16 and it took me 2+ years to fix it up. I have been through a few boats since then and currently run a 2007 Nitro 901. I have been tournament fishing for 6 years and have an AOY title from 100% Bass. I have been making my own lures for about 3-4 years... My passion is swimbaits but I have dabbled in everything from pouring plastics to carving wood. I look forward to talking with everyone on here. Cheers Matt Moreau
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