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I guess I can avoid backlashes.. I've gotten pretty good at it (throwing high $$ baits on braid will make you good at it). But I don't know how I can avoid snags when fishing jigs. And the cost factor is one of the reasons that's keeping me away from trying fluoro again.

I have a 7:1 on my dedicated jig rod since I feel I need to pick up line real fast before setting the hook. I also fish jigs on a (semi)slack line. So usually I need to do a little catching up. I have a 4.6:1, and a 5.0:1. Both reels are on setups almost always used for soft swimbaits (weedless hudds and 8" hudds respectively), and I want to crawl those baits along the bottom, slow as I can. I personally find it easier to reel faster than slower. Others might find the opposite easier. It all boils down to "your" personal preferences, A 6.x:1 is usually thought to be a good all-around ratio I believe.

And when that happens, should I change the line? You see, I get snagged several times a day when I fish jigs, and I have to break off jigs once in a while.

I have a question for the fluoro users in general. When you get snagged and have to break off, does that kink up the line? What about after picking out backlashes? Last time I spooled a reel with FC was a year back, but I'm getting the itch to try it out again...

6.X : 1 should be fine; you can always reel slower or speed up..

The PQ is good, but IMO Citica E is better. I sold my PQ long ago, still have the Citica that was my first baitcaster. If you don't mind buying used, Curado B, and Citica D's are great deals. All can be had for $70 or less... EDIT: I'm looking at my setups as I type this.. I see a curado B, a curado E, a citica E, a citica D, a cardiff and a revo toro winch...

Get the longer rod. You'll learn how to do side-arm, underarm, lob casts; as well as casting from the wrong shoulder if you feel the need. I frequently use a 8 foot rod from the shore with little or no problems. No idea about the rod, but the pro qualifier is a pretty good bang for the buck.

I thought catching them was the easy part? Now only if killing them was as straightforward..

Told ya it's a noob question. I barely know how to clean and lube my reels, that's why I don't take them apart.

Noob question: Why do the Zillions not have that pawl to begin with? I thought Daiwa reels were the real deal, and Shimanos are for beginners? :P

**It aint low stretch but neither is your leader** The leader itself isn't low-stretch. But leader + braid mainline is. **I would think the fluoro would drag the braid down with it** Not what I found.

Against my better judgement, I'm back posting in this thread. Whatever. Which part of my arguments do you not follow? I want a low stretch line => braid I also want the line to float so that I can watch it => braid I also would like to have a low memory line => braid I want the abrasion resistance => leader I want to be able to break off easily when I get snagged => leader

Keep at it folks. Who says only the swimbait forums have the drama? :P

And fluoro sinks. So of course I can't see it jump. (I'm outta here)

^^ Let's just agree to disagree, shall we?

The hand you reel with.

That cracked me up.. Thanks for the laugh. P.S. I thought you said "drunk", not kidding.

See I don't flip, and hardly pitch. But braid is a must on my two jig rods. Just something that has worked for me. I don't need the strength (30 lb on a spinning rig, 50 lb on a casting rig). For all I care, it could break at 8 lbs and 14 lbs respectively. What I need is the very low stretch, and the floating quality (line-watcher here). The castability of braid is a plus point too, but not a deal-breaker either way. Once again, it's just something that works for me.

A bit too early to say, but I'm very impressed with an used Citica 201D I bought from here. I cleaned and lubed it, and was making 50 yard casts with it the other day. Might well become my favorite reel, considering that it's on my jig rod..

Maybe sometimes one would actually want to negate the strength? It sure isn't fun trying to break off 50 lb braid when you get snagged, apart from the fact that you might damage your rod or reel. About the stretch factor; a little stretch is actually beneficial (at least I find it beneficial), and the stretch in a 7 ft leader is obviously pretty low compared to that in 50 ft of line.

Sounds like the OP is talking about the brakes, not the spool tension...

Great post. Mono or copoly leader works well for me. No need for fluoro where I fish. As long as the connecting knot doesn't get into the reel, I'm good.

I have caught many many bass on a 3/16 oz booyah baby boo jig with a rage craw trailer (regular size, not the baby or the lobster).

Seriously, I have gone out many many days with a spinning set-up and a couple of 1/4 oz jigs (in case I lose one) with a bag of rage craws this last year. I don't even take a tackle box most of the time; everything I need fits in my pockets. Jigs are one of the most versatile baits out there.

I have had one for over 2 years. Works fine, but no better or no worse than my $50 Shimano Sonora. If you have any specific questions, I'll be happy to answer them.