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deep

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Everything posted by deep

  1. If I were you, I'd buy a Citica D/E/G, or a Curado B/G (Curado D and E's seem to be pretty expensive these days) to go with a Shimano Clarus/ Compre or a Powell Diesel. Several other $100 rods and reels seem to get good reviews, but I like to stick with what works for me.
  2. For your first baitcaster, I'd recommend an aluminium reel with a centrifugal braking system. Be on the lookout for Curado B's or Citica D's. Absolute workhorse reels you can get for relatively cheap ($60-$80, maybe even less). Buy a St Croix Triumph, or a Powell Diesel, or one of the many BPS housebrand rods and you should be set.
  3. Agreed. The thing I like the most is how well they stand up. The single most important thing I look for in casting jigs. The snaglessness is remarkable too.
  4. Interesting excerpt from an article on crankbaits (message me for link to the original article; it's good). ** David Fritts’, Mr. Crankbait, contends, that not all crankbaits are made alike. That only special baits, generally 5 or 10 out of 100, possess such characteristics. He jokingly says that they were made at 11:30 on Wednesday morning, when the workers were performing at their highest levels. Well, he was right. Mr. Fritts’ also contends, that when he finds one of these baits, he puts it in a special place, and of his special baits, he claims he would not take $1000 for any one of them. I have to agree with him on this assertion. I have 34 baits that I consider special. These are the baits I use when I need to catch fish. A short observation is in order. In September 2002, a friend asked me to help him pattern some fish for an upcoming big money tournament. He said we would be fishing mostly crankbaits. From the back of his boat, my big 5 fish weighed 15-9, while his big 5 fish weighed in around 2.5 lbs. All small dinks, that were under the size limit for Texas. THAT is what I consider a special crankbait. Now, back to David Fritts theory, lets do the testing now. Pool testing at one facility revealed, that out of 100 identical crankbaits (not the same color, but the same body style and type) only 7 were considered to have the unique actions that catch more fish, according to the test anglers. These lures dove quicker, stayed down longer, went a little deeper, ran straighter, and/or came up on a steeper angle when nearing the point of retrieve. Twenty-two additional test baits were considered almost perfect, but needed some additional testing/modifying to get them to that special level. Many lures never reached the desired level of performance, and unfortunately, these are often part of the lures sold in stores. Even after extensive tuning, some of the 22 baits never made it into the SPECIAL category, but they still exceeded the other 71 baits in performance on the water. The on water application of these 100 baits was quite startling. The original 7 special baits, out caught the next 22, at about a 5 to 1 ratio. The 22 baits that were close, out caught the remaining 71, by about a 3 to 1 ratio. Was this due to applications? Or was it true that these special 7 had some unseen attributes? Or were we fishing them differently, with more confidence? Perhaps, but the final numbers made believers of the 2 of us. These tests were run in the spring, summer and early fall of 1999. We always had one of the 7 tied on, and then went through the other 22, then the 71. So, it couldn’t be done in a shorter time period with 2 people fishing both at the same time. Did the differences in season effect our results? Well, remember, we always had one tied on, and we fished one of these 7 against all the other baits, rotating about every 30 minutes on the other baits, and about every hour on the 7. Another startling observation, was that the big 7, didn’t catch near as many short or under fish. Most of them were keepers, not so the other 93. We never kept weight numbers, but did measure each fish. We made at least 500 casts with each bait. So, did we fish the 7 that much more than the others? Yes we did, but we were keeping track of casts and fish caught within certain time periods.. The 7 still won, hands down. We then tried to identify what made them special (an exercise in futility). We even X-rayed the 29 baits, dry rattled them for distinctive sounds, examined with a magnifying glass. We never found anything that we could identify that made them special, except the qualities mentioned above. ** More expensive baits are generally more consistent. If I lose a Lucky Craft crankbait that I caught a bunch of fish on, I know I can buy another of the same model and go back to catching fish. If it's a Strike King (just an example, sorry SK fans); maybe, maybe not.
  5. Try a wacky rig maybe? Or just set the hook earlier.
  6. Good job! Buy some mend-it. Stuff pays for itself.
  7. Good reel. I'd buy one if I needed a reel.
  8. Could you post a pic of the bait bigbill? I do know of a certain "producer plug" and that one isn't a silly lure. Myself, I like quality baits. Better than buying a dozen POS baits that may or may not run straight and may/ may not catch fish. My fishing time is important to me, and I don't like spending money just to be a beta tester or sharpen my lure tuning skills.
  9. Wish there would be more topics like this so that we could all learn the nuts and bolts. Thanks for posting. I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to structure fishing, but I'd like to exercise my brain a little. I don't think I have ever fished a natural lake (I spent quite a few minutes trying to find the dam on your map lol); and this certainly looks more than a hole in the ground. What sort of baitfish is in there (pelagic/ demersal)? Are there any runoffs into the lake, I'd think there are from the topo map. If there are, I'd mark the inlets on the map and follow the (deepest) contour line to substitute for the main and feeder creeks around which man-made reservoirs are built. Locating the deepest water in the area and in the lake always seems to be a good start. Next I'd find the points, ridges, humps and flats. I see a couple of nice looking humps, one associated with the deepest water (60' I think?) and one with that prominent point (roland top?) with a couple of deep water areas close by. Might start there just as well. Where do the bigger fish spawn?
  10. Got it; thanks guys.
  11. I didn't read all the posts, but is the rod capable of handling lighter baits? Meaning, does it load up well? When I'm fishing <3/8 oz baits on an MH casting rod (not often), I keep the spool tension the same (usually set pretty loose), and increase the number of brakes from 1 or 2 to 3, or even 4 (Shimano VBS).
  12. Maybe I just have way too sensitive fingers (or maybe I fish bottom bumping baits way too much), but it's easy to distinguish between different kinds of cover while dragging baits (for me). Yes, even on mono. Not sure how to put this, but a fish "feels" different from inanimate objects. FC does seem to transmit vibrations better when the bait is sitting still. On a semi-slack line, there's almost no contest between FC (or mono) and braid. Being a line-watcher can help with braid. I watch the line all the time anyway.
  13. Depends on the cover you want to me. 15# is a little to unwieldy for me; and a real pain to break off when snagged. P.S. http://seaguar.com/download/seaguar_catalog.pdf Check out the top left part for comparisons. P.P.S. San Diego Jam works well for me. I tested 12# Tatsu to break (at the knot) at close to 12# or over.
  14. Looking for a 7'6"-8' casting rod, medium or mag-medium power (1/4 to 3/4 oz lure rating say), fast action; and here's the kicker- I want to spend no more than $70, prefer to spend less if possible. Sensitivity is not a big concern, of course. Thanks for any inputs.
  15. If I were you, I'd go with 50#. Less chance of digging in the spool, and better shock strength. If concerned about visibility, I'd tie on a leader.
  16. Looks like neither is an aluminium framed reel.. You might have better options for the money you want to spend.
  17. Here's a budget suggestion that works for me: Berkley Lightning 7'6". Rated upto 1.5 ozs and it fishes more like a medium-fast rod. I'm not sure if it'll have enough power for the sort of cover you're looking to punch through though. It's far from ideal for frogs. but I fish frogs even less than I punch mats. P.S. Watch Bub Tosh's videos on youtube; he recommends a moderate taper for a punching rod.
  18. NRX is still awesome. Felt this freshwater snail chewing on the line- the line, not the bait- the other day with about 50 ft of line out. Didn't know what it was, so I set the hook. The snail is hanging on to the line; it's shell clamped shut around it. 15# Tatsu.
  19. I'd try some shallow cover and the runoffs if it was a warm rain. During and immediately after some rains, I usually do pretty okay. After a while, not so much, until things settle down again.
  20. Try, try, try again." This spunky little fish seems to be a firm believer in this theory. She bumped and tried to eat an 8" hudd no less than four times before finally getting a good hold of it. Unfortunately for her, I was following the whole drama unfold through my rod and my line, and as soon as she had a mouthful, the hook was set. I have caught a few fat, and several "healthy" fish; but she was flat out obese. The picture does no justice at all. Heck, she couldn't even jump. Her best efforts amounted to flopping around on the surface in an ungainly fashion. Eating anything and everything that moves might be good for her health, but with as many meat fisherman around this part of the country as there are, I wonder how long she'll live if she doesn't start getting selective about what she puts in her mouth.
  21. Congratulations!
  22. 15# holds a little too much memory for my liking. I prefer 12#. Besides, 15# is a pain to break off when snagged. (200 size casting reel). Been using Tatsu though; I'd guess Invizx would be similar.
  23. Very cool man.
  24. Congrats. That is a good-looking bass you caught.
  25. ^^ Are you sure you're talking about the largemouth bass world record?
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