TLDR version:
Fish small frogs that have hooks on top (not on the sides). Walk your frog. Make short casts. Use a heavy/ extra-heavy (power) rod. Straight braid. Drag locked down. Reel down and set hook straight up. Get your fish in the boat fast.
Longer version:
Fun Fact 1: At least 75% of my frog fish (ever) were caught in the last 2 months.
Fun Fact 2: At least 75% of the frogs I own were acquired in the last 2 months.
Preamble:
I am ~5'8" and ~160 lbs. My kayak (Ocean Kayak Tetra) weighs ~50 lbs, and I (have to) fish sitting down. You might (or might not) already have less bugs to work out (better hooksetting leverage) depending on your situation.
I tried a bunch of different things, and missed a lot of bites, before I found out what worked for me. After that, I landed pretty much every bass that "ate" the frog. I will say almost every frog I tried got bit (as long as I was walking them). Hooking the fish was the hard part.
Bonus pro(lol) tip: Have a follow-up bait ready to throw back when a fish misses your frog.
Small frogs:
Topwaters in general are much more buoyant than a frog (or a baitfish) of the same size/ dimensions. I don't believe bass always get the bait (or all of it) in their mouths, especially when there's a lot of pads around.
With frogs (armed with snagproof hooks as they are) I think this is a big issue. You actually have to set the hook! I don't think I got any more (relatively speaking) strikes on a smaller frog, compared to a regular sized one, but I have no doubt I hooked more fish simply because they got the whole bait when they blowed up on it. (Bend the hooks out and up if that makes you feel more confident when not fishing in pads.)
The one exception would be mat frogs; and then I'd scale one size down and use a regular sized frog (rather than something like a phat mat daddy or a spro king daddy).
Hooks on top:
I am not sure how this actually translated to more hookups, but there was a significant different in the strike to hookup ratio betweeen frogs with hooks on top vs hooks on their sides (see pic). I didn't snag any more pads with frogs having my preferred hook configuration either.
One single hook on top (Evergreen Kicker Frog) seemed like a very good idea, and I did have a very good hookup ratio with it, but unfortunately couldn't give the bait an extensive trial to see if this was even better than the double hook on top.
Walk your frog:
I don't know why this worked, but walking yielded much better results than bobbing up and down. And a frog of course doesn't really walk far side to side like a spook. I will admit a few (very few) fish bit as soon as the frog landed, and a few others bit when I was dragging over a mat and soon as the bait got to an open hole.
But other than that, walking the frog was key. Luckily, all frogs walk, some better than others though. You can even walk (most) frogs with just the reel as long as there's enough slack.
Bonus pro(lol) tip: Skip your frog under overhangs and then walk it back.
Short casts:
I generally fish deep clear/ slightly stained reservoirs, with not a whole lot of shoreline cover, an awful lot. I always prefer(red) to stay as far away from the fish as possible. Seems like longer casts were not an important factor in getting bit with a bunch of shallow cover though, and I had a much better chance of getting a hook in the fish with shorter casts.
The big problem I had with longer casts is the line would get wrapped around the pads and when I'd get a bite, I had little hooksetting power. Not an issue in open water obviously. So I learned to make short 50 to 75 feet casts except when covering vast expanses of mats with holes here and there (and then I did what I could to keep the line away from the pads).
Bonus pro(lol) tip: When fishing edges of pads, cast 10 feet or so into the pads and bring your frog back out, rather than casting right to the edge. I think I drew quite a few fish out of the pads and they bit right at the edge.
Rod, line, drag:
I caught most of the frog fish on an IRod Fred's Magic Stick. It's surprising how far that rod will cast a true 1/3 oz frog, considering it's rated upto 2 oz. Also caught a few on a Dobyns Champion 764 (which worked fine for small and regular frogs with lighter hooks). I preferred the IRod, because it was heavier (in power) and lighter (in absolute weight), and has a longer handle which I like both for casting and setting the hook.
Literally two of my eleven regular size reels (non-swimbait casting reels, and I don't do spinning) have braid on them. For whatever reason, the drag on my Curado K doesn't lock down, and I found out the hard way that even a slightly slipping drag is not ideal for frogging (not from a kayak anyway). Used my Exsence DC after that discovery.
Hookset:
After trying a few different things, I learned to set the hook straight up, and hard, like I was trying to break something. Worked very well. Also, get your fish in the boat fast. I literally lost one frog fish (out of dozens) that I actually hooked , but quite a few were not hooked very well and a few times the frog just fell out soon as I got the fish in the boat.
Popping vs non-popping and color:
Didn't see much of a difference between popping vs non-popping frogs (surprising). As far as color goes, pretty much all the frogs I bought got white/ chartreuse bellies. I think chartreuse worked a little better, but I don't have a big enough sample set.
Suggested frogs:
Here are the ones that worked well for me. Jackall Iobee, Booyah Popping, Evergreen Kicker, Nories Chibi something, Megabass Pony (not Pony Gabot), smallest size Booyah, Molix Baby Sneaky Frog.
(I have about a dozen others that got just as many bites but had lackluster hookup ratios. Anyone looking for some cheap frogs?)