OnthePotomac

This may help. WHAT IS MODULUS IM RATING AND TON RATING? - Modulus refers to the modulus of elasticity, or you can think of it as the modulus of stiffness. It is the relationship between stress (the applied force per square inch) and strain (the amount of deformation that the force causes per square inch). The IM and or ton rating of a rod refer to the overall modulus of the material. The IM rating may vary among rod manufacturers, but the following values are fairly standard in the industry: IM6 = 30+ton material in the rod (this is considered a standard modulus) IM7 = 35+ton material in the rod (this is considered intermediate modulus) IM8 = 40+ton material in the rod (this is considered intermediate to high modulus) IM10 = 54+ton material in the rod (this is considered high modulus) Beyond this level manufacturers use various ways to describe their rod strengths. You will find rods which do not use the IM ratings on their rods. Instead they will use strength designations such as HMG 60 (High Modulus Graphite) which is used on my Bass Pro Shops Extreme rods, or HM 85 (High Modulus) which is used on the expensive Johnny Morris rods. Carbonlites are 85 million modulus, but this is not printed on the rod. Loomis goes even further and uses designations such as NRX, GLX, IMX and NX and do tell you what the modulus rating is unless you ask them. They will use the term very high modulus in their description of their rods.

You can use a Palomar if you are careful not to twist it before you loop it back over the bait or hook. As stated above, wet it throughtly and draw it closed slowly. I have not not had a problem following these guidlines.

Go to Shimano.com, click on "Customer Service", then click on "Reel Maintenance". I don't know what kind of reel you have, but this should help. If you do have a Shimano you can also see a schematic here.

I will only add that I have braid on a Daiwa 2500 Exceler and it works fine (two years now).

Try your local bass clubs.

Look at the "ROD POCKETS". Very nice.

If you could swing $17 more I recommend the Shimano Citica 201E (a lefty) for $117. I have three and they are really incredible reels. Small, powerful and built like a tank.. I put ABEC7 ceramic bearings in mine, but the stock bearings are excellent. The drag is so good I did not bother upgrading them. Shimano does not plan on replacing the Citica as they did the Curado models.

After reading all of the above, this chart may be of value. USE SWIVELS ON Carolina rigs Fluke rigs In line spinners (If line twist occurs) USE SNAP SWIVELS OR SWIVELS ON Standard Spoons Mepps Syclops TIE DIRECT TO Buzz baits Chuggers (or split ring/duolock) Jigs Frogs/rats Prop baits Spinner baits Stick baits (i.e.Zara Spook) Tail spinners Weedless spoons Weight forward spinners TIE TO SPLIT RING OR DUOLOCK SNAP Crank baits Lipless crank baits Jerk baits Blade baits Jigging spoons* * Swivel if desired

Which components are now cheaper?

Similar here. I use 50lb Sufix Performance braid with a 14lb leader and have a friend who has gone done to 30lb braid.

Go on to the Shimano web page and click on Customer Service. There you can submit your question on parts exchange and you will receive a prompt answer from one of the techs. I use them frequently and they are very good. I do not have the Shimano telephone number on hand in California, but you can order anything with the part number, and you can ask for the number when you email Shimano.

Citica 200E, hands down.

A few years ago I bought a video from these folks on how to strip, clean and lube a baitcaster. The best $29 I ever spent. http://www.lakeforktacklerepair.com/

A drop on Reel X works for me.

If this will help, one gram is .353 oz's. I also bought a digital gram/oz scale a few years ago and was really surprised at the stated weight of various lures versus the actual weight. A big difference in some cases. I get the most use out of my scales weighing various plastics for sink rate, best line size and whether to use a slip sinker. Very handy.

Clean the bearing well, dry it and place it on a sharpened pencil. Spin it in a quiet environment next to your ear and if it is bad you will sure hear it grinding. If it will not spin at all it is surely bad. Just make sure it is throughly cleaned and dry.

Agree, spool your reels in the spring when the season starts for you, but you can buy it any time, since it makes no difference. I am still using BPS 20lb Excel on a jumbo spool I was given eight years ago and it works just fine.

Check out the Falcon BooCuu line. They are even lighter than the Abu's.

Tackle Tour did a comparison evaluation of Toray, Samurai and Sufix Performance and Sufix came out a little ahead of the other two. Their test results are here: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewpremiumbraidrounduppg5.html

I recommend that all take a minute and read Tackle Tour's evaluation of three braids mention in this thread. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewpremiumbraidroundup.html

I have had two Carbonlite baitcasters and one Carbonlite spinning rod since they it the market. I fish the Tidal Potomac close to the salt line and have had no corrosion problems on the rods, or hook keepers. I really like how light they are and the PacBay line guides are great. I have Citica 200E's on the baitcasters and a Sahara on the spinning rod.

I have fished Mizmo green pumpkin/copper flake tubes with a 3/16 bullet sinker on the Tidal Potomac with visibility from 6" to 2' for 9 years now and it works very well. I do not use rattles.

I should have qualified my comment on losing zero bass from debarbing, in that I meant my loss rate is unchanged from what normally occurred when fishing with barbed hooks. In fact, it has gone down a little, which I attribute to my increased effort to keep the hook imbedded by constant pressure on until I land the fish, since I know there is no barb.

I was given a spool of 10# Viscious floro early last year and put in two of my baitcasters. I fished all year with it throwing worms and crankbaits and I liked it a great deal. Never any problems.

Send it to the BPS Reel Repair Service on their web site and they will tell you what it needs. Sounds like bearings corroded (an inexpensive fix).