Always have on every type of line. I only have braid on the frog rod, but it has always been a no fail knot. It may be over kill, but I have always used 5 wraps before wetting and cinching down on every line.
FYI Leesylvania is open as are the ramps. If you Yak you can turn right from the ramp, go under the RR bridge and enjoy a nice, calm pretty large (and shallow) protected bay
X2. Much of what you need is pretty available and this fellow will do a bang up job at getting your reels up to snuff. Here is wishing you good health as you go forward.
No tail comment, but I do not bend the hooks up anymore and just put one of these on and you will never miss. They usually come in with it right in the roof of their mouth.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/LAKE-FORK-TROPHY-FROG-TAIL-HOOK/1754374.uts?slotId=4
Don't know whose reels you have, but this is worth watching anyway
http://fish.shimano.com/content/dam/shimanosnaffish/shimano/support/maintenance-tips/Maintenance Tips- Baitcasting Reels.pdf
You place the little hook on the end of the tool on to the fish hook and just squeeze the handle down and it is locked onto the hook so you can manipulate the hook as you wish to disengage it from the fish and bingo. Tool is 7". Been using this for the last eight years and saw it being used by Bill Dance back then. My school teacher daughter is afraid to set the hook so she won't hurt the fish, so when she is with me I use it a lot LOL
I only need the traditional transom saver from motor to keel roller for my little Yammie 60 and mine has thick rubber pads where it fits on the lower unit. No scratches.
A small club (to bop snakeheads), a sheathed filet knife (for snake heads) , a mouth gripper (for snakeheads), line scissors, long needle nose pliers and this little jewel for hook removal so easy with my barbless hooks. Slips right out
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-squeeze-out-hook-remover
All thirteen of my baitcasters have 10lb mono backing. I only use 60-70yds of my primary line on each reel and it sure saves a ton on money each year. I don't fish with a zillion line sizes, so I buy my line in larger spools and use a line counter to spool on the right amount and still give me the 1/8" top space from the spool edge. I pretty much use the same size line on a reel, so once I have the right amount of backing for the line size, it is pretty set for changing the primary line. The line counter gives me a check to see any differences which may occur in putting on the new line and maintain the 1/8" rule.
Ah, one of my favorite subjects.
Cal's on drags and gears
Yellow Rocket Fuel on the ABEC SS spool bearings
Hedgehog Alchemy oil for my ZR high speed SS half open spool bearings
ReelX on worm gears
Pinion, drive shaft, X-ship bearings dipped in TSI 301 at annual reel cleaning
I only fun fish and have using #2 Duolock for years and recently (last two years) Orvis fly snaps They are small, feather weight and incredibly strong.
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