baluga

CH 50MG is $250 new

I got 3 phenix Ultra MBX a 6'6" ML and two 6'6" H. It is well balance and very light weight 3.6oz. It has better balance than my Cumara Reaction rod 6'3" H.

I also got the Cumara Reaction 6'3 HF from Cabelas. Cost comes out $105 after applying the $30 off for the purchase of $150. It is a tad tip heavy compared to my other favorite rods. I have fixed the balance it by sticking a penny and a quarter at the butt end using rubber glue, works great. It's perfect for topwater lure for walk the dog. I'll post fix when I get a change on how the quarter weight looks when attached to the butt end.

Oh boy...here we go again! ;D Cabelas already started with Cumara reaction rod CUC63H for 109.88 + shipping There's a coupon of $30 for a purchase of $150..

What works for me well for me. 1. Replace the any stock hooks of Luckycraft having #4 and less hooks with Owner ST41. 2. Set the drags about 2 to 3 pounds by feel. 3. Set the hook hard 4. Give it a couple of jerk once the hook is set to secure the hook. 5. Play the fish with the rod pointed to the side parallel to the ground. I still lost a few big ones but these definitely increased my land to hook up ratio.

MS 125mm Stock hooks are #4. I go size up to #2 when I need to tame down the tail action a bit and wanted to make it sink a tad faster.

2X, I always replace the with 0wner 2X ST - 41. I've enough number of lost fish due to straigthen or bent stock hooks with LC.

Here's a way to sharpen that Owner treble hooks cutting point. Took me awhile to figure out how to sharpen this darn hooks. Couple of times I tried but gave up since it just too difficult, and opted to buying new ones. The problem was the angle of file on the point when sharpening. I was sharpening the hooks at the wrong angle. I was doing it more like sharpening a standard hooks. Filing the hooks aligned to the point of the hooks does not make it sharper, it actually makes it dull. Wrong way: If you look closely to the point of the hook, it is pointed inwards towards the hooks eyelet. Correct way is to set your file at the angle that makes it look like your going to cross the hook eyelet. This way: Give it at least four strokes on this angle and it would sharpen just like new. Try to run the points against you thumb nail, if it slides easily just re-sharpen until the hooks just stops when you run the point to you thumb nail. I hope this helps. :wink:

I am not quite sure if I would trust someone who wears Crocs with waders, but you make your own decision. ;D I use the crocs when wading in the sandy areas. Wading in muddy bottom yes, it's best to use boots but not on sandy beach. It's a pain in the arse when sand gets into your boots when wading in the surf. Waders gets more beating when used it in saltwater. I've gone thru two hodgeman breathable waders and they started leaking after a year compared to LL beans flyweight II, two years before it started leaking and its half the price. BTW, you looked like Bantam1 in your avatar. I thought it was Bantam1 until I read your monicker. I guess I have good balance, its true that crocs does not give you that grip when stepping on slippery rocks. But Crocs are definitely comfy specially for those who develope lower back pain easily from standing and walking for hours like me.

Always go for breathable waders. I use the foot stocking with croc sandals. Comfortable on the feet. Albright has a sale on Trinity waders for $44.95 w/ free shipping http://www.albrightflyfish.com/closeouts/trinity-waders.html LL Bean Flyweight II for 59 free shipping - this one is thin but durable. Emerger waders --- better than flyweight II but cost almost twice http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1109?page=waders-wading-shoes&nav=vm http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1109?page=waders-wading-shoes&nav=vm These LL beans waders are better than hodgeman waders. As for the trinity waders, I just order one so no first hand info on this.

Very nice! 8-)

It is well built. The color finish is tougher than the LC FM110. It has that tight swimming action. Totally different action from the Pointer. Action is more comparable to the LC FM110 than the pointer. Pointer has that wider kick action. It's a slow float. It's an additional arsenal but not a replacement for pointer just because then have different action and different application. I have better luck with LC FM110.

have you tried using with a weedless hook but rigging it up side down where the is exposed hook point is pointed downwards. This will give you a better chance of hookup since the stike is coming from below going up. More chance of getting the business end of the hook. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_58035_175003000_175000000_175003000_175-3-0

. :)

Some multi color braid changes every 10 metres giving you idea on how much length of line you have out. Let us know how it compares to other braid specially on castability and strenght. Thanks

Thanks, actually it's me, It's in Florida. Ponce Inlet, Lighthouse Drive. Taken by my wife while I was walking back to the shed using Nikon D60.

Sweet thanks! That's what I like to hear. Very generally speaking, do you know what pricing is like? prices are just right.. i've ordered parts for revo inshore, a thumb bar cost around $6, clutch kick bar around $5, Cast control cup plus parts inside it cost me around $8. Shipping is around $4.

too much oil on the clutch bearing. Remove and clean the anti clutch bearing and add 2 to 4 of corrosion x.

You can always put a 20# braid and an 8ft 12# Mono or FC leader and it's an all around use.

I had the same incident with Curado 200E5, I'm using braid with a backing of a yard of mono to prevent it from slipping. It' s a case of sticky drag. It happen when you think you already turn the star drag to the right drag setting and when then suddenly it went free spool while fighting a fish. The sticky drag came off after a strong pull. I adjusted the star drag and it's good again. Drags needs to be replaced w/a new set of dartainuim drags and put enough cals grease to make it smooth. It solves the problem. I heard the same incident happen on Curado 300E7.

In most cases I recommend an annual tear down and lubing bearings once or twice in between. I find that manufacturers tend to over-lube but a drop on each bearing probably wouldn't hurt. I'd take a new reel and fish it hard right out of the box to make sure there are no warranty issues and then have it serviced. It will probably come back better than new. 2x, same here, this also gives me a good feel of the before and after result of servicing the reel, a good measurement if it comes out better after cleaning and re-lubing

I thought you might want to know from another reel expert's experience. Cut from Alan Tani's post.

I'm a right hander and use the RH baitcaster for swimbait, hard bait/jerkbait but I prefer using LH baitcaster for walk-the-dog and drop shot.

can withstand brackish water better than stainless steel bearing. Anything that last longer is always better!