.ghoti.

Hi ya Sonny. Good to see ya back.

You've hit the nail on the head. A steady state vibration would tell us the resonant freq; where in the spectrum the rod or blank was most efficient at vibration transmission. I don't think that would be of much use. I would also be very disturbing to find that an Ugly stick at 2.5KHz was better than a GLX. Which again, would prove nothing. You sound like we may speak the same language, so here's my best thought so far. I considered using an LVDT. Instead of hooking up an excitation voltage to the coil and reading the output windings for distance measurement, I would configure a DAQ card for ac voltage output and connect it to the output coils. take a little experimentation and probably a buffer amp, but it should stroke the plunger in and out. It would have a limit on upper freq, but I don't think I need to measure high freqs. Impulses are what I'm after. What do you think? At this time, this is all blue sky thinking. I have way too much going on to be able to do anything other than think about it.

Kent, that would produce a steady state vibration. The frequency would depend on the size of, and the tension on, the line. This could easily be measured, but, as I said before, I don't think it would give me anything useful, other than resonant frequency. I totally agree with DVT, that the Common Cents System is the way to go. This system yields easily measured numbers which, while being of only some value as absolute numbers, can be of great value for comparative purposes. The system does not ,however, make any determination of sensitivity. Still, a great concept, developed by a creative thinker. But, I don't think we will ever get rod and/or blank manufacturers to measure and publish this data. Hell, a lot of them won't even publish rod or blank weights. When I started thinking about this, what I first had in mind was taking some response measurements from a blank, and then taking the same measurements after the rod was built. Then start putting together a data base, or spreadsheet, showing what effect different materials had on the numbers. ie, does EVA damp the rod more than cork, or foam arbors vs tape vs graphite, different reels seat, split vs full grip, guides, etc,etc,etc. I think many of those comparisons would show slight differences measurable by precise instruments, but imperceptible to the human hand. But, and here's a big but, maybe several of those measured differences added together would produce something we could feel. That's where I was going with this initially. But all these discussions about sensitivity maid me start thinking along those lines as well.

It's a little early in the season for this much crowing and groaning, isn't it?

This!!!! I've been thinking about this measurement thing off and on for a couple of years. Ever since I had to buy, and learn, LabView for a project. In talking to an engineer friend, who is also a fisherman (he's mechanical, I'm electrical) he thought that by applying a steady state vibration, all I would accomplish would be to establish the resonant frequency for each blank. Interesting, but ultimately of no practical use. I don't think a bass, or any other fish, vibrates. A strike would be an impulse. That has been my dilemma. How to apply a repeatable, variable, controlled impulse. This is a solvable problem, but one I have put on the shelf for a while. I will get back to it sometime soon. Sensitivity, being subjective, would not be what I would be trying to measure. What I would be after would be quantifiable data, for comparative purposes. Objective data, which could possibly be correlated to subjective perceptions across a wide sampling of people. I do believe this could yield some useful results. By the way DVT, the project which got me started with LabView was to measure taste. I signed a rigid nondisclosure agreement to get this project, so I can't discuss details, but I can say the measurements recorded for analysis, were relative rather than absolute.

If you still have the insert, and it is undamaged, you may be able to epoxy it back in place. I've managed to do that once. I've failed at that more than once. Wrapping on a new guide is the correct way to fix the problem.

I've been thinking about doing that. I have LabView software, and a couple of DAQ cards with inputs which will accept just about any type of sensor's output signal. Also have a few low range accelerometers. It would not be difficult to develop an application to measure vibration transmission. At this point, I have no time for such a project. And, I don't really know what I would use to apply a realistic input signal to the rod blank. I've put some thought into this this and have conceived, and discarded, several ideas. I'd be interested to hear some of your ideas. Keep in mind, that for this to have any relevance at all, whatever I use to apply a signal to the rod will have to be controlled down to a very fine level. Tapping the end of the blank with a stick is not going to work. LOL

I have the 5S70MLFG 7' ML-F, lure rating down to 1/8oz. I'll probably trim two or three inches off the butt to get what I want. St Croix has the most comprehensive line of blanks for freshwater fishing. I don't think you can go wrong with an SCIV or SCV blank.

I have a K2 and an SCV blank, both still in tubes, standing up in the corner, waiting for some spare time. The SCV is a spinning blank, to built as a bait finesse casting rod for a new SS SV that's on the way. The K2 has a custom painted, tuned up TD-Z waiting in the wings. This one's gonna be my new tube rod. An NFC HM blank will probably be next. Haven't decided which one I want to try first. Probably the 705

the diamond pattern looks a lot like a Cordell Spot

If you can find one, the Diawa TD-X 6'10" ML-F drop shot model is top shelf. They've been out of production for a couple of years. Good luck finding one. They made a casting version as well, and I've been looking for one of those for quite a while.

Little Creeper Trash Fish

Fishing is a blood sport. You're gonna kill one every now and then. Just accept the fact, and keep fishing.

18 Daiwa baitcasters (but only 16 rods) 7 spinning combos 2 long UL crappie rods 3wt, 4wt, 5wt, 6wt and 8wt flyrods They are all favorites, at one time or another, or I wouldn't still have them. sold all of my muskie gear Oh, and one Alvey rod and reel. I still have that monster because it's so much fun to watch a super spook fly 150 yards.

Felixone, your rough calculation was off because the IPT changes as the spool empties. IPT(inches per turn) is the gear ratio times the circumference of the spool. Less line on the spool equals a smaller circumference. The best way to determine capacity for added braid over a mono backing is to fill the spool with mono, make as long a cast as you can with the heaviest bait you're going to use on that combo. Then peel off another 20-30 yards, and cut the line there. Tie on your braid and fill the spool from that point.

Hey Joe, if you like the Sol, try an Alphas sometime. That's the JDM version of the Sol. Lighter and sweeter. They show up used occasionally. I just picked up another one from the flea market.

Don't use braid, but for backing to main line knot i use 3 and 3. I want the smallest knot possible in the middle of the spool.

That's something you don't see every day.

Thanks Sam. Need a chuckle today.

Discretion being the better part of valor, I think I'll just let that sit there and simmer for a bit.

I won't kiss anything that starts with a b

I like the cuttail with a 1/16oz weight sometimes, but I almost always start with 1/8oz. Great minds think alike, eh?

Rage Lobster GYCB 6.5" cuttail worm I'll have those two rigged and ready at all times.

You need a flat screwdriver small enough to fit in the gap you see in the clip. Insert, and then twist the screwdriver. Don't pry, twist. Working inside a large plastic bag is the exact right way to do this.

I think your hook is too small. I use a 4/0 or 5/0 EWG hook. The larger belly of the hook, by remaining under the body of the bait, acts as a keel. I use the 4/0 hook for slow lift and drop, and a 5/0 for faster, jerkbait type retrieves. As far as line problems with spinning gear, I'm going to be no help to you. I quit fishing a fluke on spinning tackle for that very reason.