.ghoti.

Getting older beats the alternative, but it ain’t for sissies!

And now, to sound like a really old fart; I remember when it was a big big deal when we hit 5000.

A Fuji Alconite, size 4.5 will pass a well tied leader knot. That is no guarantee that any other size 4.5 guide will do the same. The 4.5 is the OD of the ceramic ring, or the ID of the frame. ID of the ring depends on thickness of the ring material. Stupid way to specify guide size, but WYSIWYG.

Terminal tackle is the only thing on my list. I opened my small t-tackle box in the rain, and forgot about when i got home. Got a box full off rusted and corroded stuff. Need to replace most of it.. I dumped all of it in my ultrasonic cleaner, and did salvage some.

I build rods all year, but do more in the winter than summer. Fishing is absolutely a seasonal thing here. I service all my reels during the hard water times, and sometimes attempt to organize my tackle bags and boxes.

I always start by placing the blank in my static test rig, and flex it to 90°. Then rotate it in the rig, and flex again. Repeat until I have flexed it in four directions. Alternately, hold in one position and flex up, flex down, flex right, flex left. At that point I am convinced there are no structural defects, and the build can proceed. Do not flex past 90°. Then look for the natural bend of the blank. I have seen a couple that were almost perfectly straight. Had one so crooked ai had to send it back. Roll the blank on the bench, with about half of it hanging off the end of the bench. Stop when the tip is curved up. Mark the upper side of the blank. This is the side the guides go on, if you are building a conventional casting rod. Mark the opposite side if building a spinning rod. You want the weight of the guides to help bend the blank back towards straight. That is what’s known as building on the straightest axis. You can use a china marker, or just wrap a piece of painter’s tape around the blank and mark it. you want a relatively close fit when reaming the grips. Not so tight you have to really push hard to force it into place, but you do not want it to slide off the end of the blank. If you get it a little too big, you can build up the blank diameter with drywall tape.

Fifty years ago, the owner’s manual of your new car detailed how to adjust the valves. Today, it tells you to not drink the contents of the battery.

If you know exactly where the seat and checks will be placed, contact your supplier. Some of them will size components for you. Be exact, or don’t try this method.

Measure the diameter of the blank, where you are going to place the reel. Ditto for all winding checks.

Volkswagen Squareback. An early version of an SUV. got 300k miles out of an engine that took 2 1/2 quarts of oil, and no oil filter.

I have an SJ703. No way should that blank be rated for 3/4oz. More realistic would be 1/8 - 3/8. the ratings NFC publishes for those Xray blanks are helter-skelter.

The early bird gets the worm, right? At my age, that just proves that the worm should have stayed in bed.

He is not joking. The dude gets up before anything, or anybody.

No problem here with my ipad.

Once again, Scott; excellent work!

I like it!

Very nice!

Might make a good 6’ pistol grip spinnerbait rod.

Look up schreckstoff.

Saw the title, and thought long time member 12poundbass went off his diet.

Ok. I have to point out something. Not sure where this piece of bad data came from, but, however you close the bail, it has absolutely nothing to do with line twist. Doesnt cause it, doesnt prevent it. No cause and effect relationship between bail closing and line twist. Closing the bail by hand, does help prevent loops from forming on the spool.

Would not recommend sanding a blank. You have very little room for error. Besides, you need to apply a thin coat of finish before applying decals. Put the decals over epoxy for the best results. I have tried putting decals right on the blank, and had to cut them off and start over both times I tried. Didn't have to try it a third time.

I hear what you’re saying, but I gotta tell ya, if there was saltwater flats fishing anywhere near me, I would almost never fish for bass.

The main thing you need to know, when you’re a plumber, is do not chew your fingernails.

Guide sizing is all up to you. My personal builds use all small guides. As small as size 3. If you use braid, you will not want to go smaller than a 4.5mm guide size. A Fuji Alconite size 4 will pass a well tied braid to leader knot. Go with a 4.5 just to be sure. No reason for double foot guides. Save weight and use all single foot guides. And use the Forhan locking wrap. Google that. No rules about number of guides, except my rule, which is use the fewest number of the smallest guides which will do the job. Static load testing will tell you how many guides any particular blanks needs. Google that as well. You have more than enough epoxy and thread finish. Size D thread is easier to work with, at first, but A size looks better.