.ghoti.

Seaguar sent me some their new Finesse Fluoro line to try. A spool of 5.2lb test, and a spool of 7.3. In talking with them, it was revealed that these are actual breaking strengths for these lines. Unlike say, Yozuri Hybrid, whose 6lb test line actually breaks at about 12 pounds. now for a disclaimer. I am not a fan of fluorocarbon line. The only use I have for it is trout fishing. I use 4lb test Invizx, on the extra spools of two spinning reels, and only use these for trout trips. Another disclaimer. I tried Tatsu twice. Kent gave me a couple of spools, so I filled two reels the night before one of our Bass Resource RoadTrips. I took four rods with me one day, fishing with Big O. Two with Tatsu, and two with Trilene XL. Tatsu frayed badly. The last 18" of line, the part that would come into contact with cover and or bottom composition, would last about 20 minutes before requiring retying. Trilene, fished in the same areas did not show any damage. After reporting this here, Seaguar sent me four new spools of Tatsu. Had the same issue. I gave those spools to Kent, and haven't used that line since. Seaguar calls Tatsu a double structure line, with an inner core of harder line encased in a softer outer core. I believe it was the softer, outer coating that was being damaged while I was using it. So, with more than a bit of skepticism, I tried the new Finesse Fluor, which is a similar, dual structure line. I primarily use casting gear for Bass fishing, but every now and then, spinning gear is required. I have two spinning combos tasked to bass fishing. An identical pair of Steez rods, with identical Daiwa 2004 size Certate reels. I spooled one of these with 7.3lb Finesse Fluoro, and took it along when I visited Kent last week. I tested some knots while still at home. Paloma, clinch and SD jam knots. I tied three of each and then broke them. The clinch knot broke at the knot all three times. The Palomar broke at the knot once, and the line broke twice. The line broke all three times with the SD jam knot. Pretty good performance for fluoro line. Excellent really, in my experience. So I spent about two hours fishing this line. I had some other stuff to test on this trip as well. The line casts well, and is fairly limp when using a slack line bait like a Ned rig, which was what I had tied on most of the time. Also used an unweighted fluke and a light shakeyhead. I drug this line over everything I could if find. Rocks weeds, brush, etc. I was pleasantly surprised to find no signs of the fraying which had disappointed me so badly when using Tatsu. Being a finesse line, it as only available in lower pound test ratings: 5.2, 6.2, 7.3 and 8.4. At 27 bucks for 150 yards, it is not a cheap line, but it's less than Tatsu, and outperforms in my experience. Ive ordered a spool of 8.4 to try on one of my finesse casting combos, and expect to like it for that as well as I like it for spinning gear. I'm saving the 5.2 for an upcoming White River trout expedition. I am impressed enough that I will be leaving the 7.3 line on one spinning combo, and will use it for this year, just to see how it performs long term. This is the first fluorocarbon line I have been impressed with.

A graphite rod will not take a set from being stored in a bent position. Bamboo, yes. Old fiberglass, yes. Graphite, no. And nothing you do will straighten it.

Very, very nice, Mick. That's epoxy on the cork, eh? Ive epoxied a few cork rings after staining them, and couldn't quite decide if I liked it or not. Seeing yours, I have to say I like it. How does it hold up over time? Hat's off to you for the charity build, and congrats for the top dollar bid.

MHX blanks are NOT old Loomis design blanks. The original series of MHX blanks were made to mimic the old Loomis line and lure ratings. Loomis had nothing to do with it.

She is easy on the eyes. But, how could you listen to her for more than five minutes, and not throw her overboard?

Hey Tom, I think we are comparing spinning reels in this thread.

The braid will not scratch the spool, not that it matters. The braid will slip on the spool without some backing.

I prefer them, for the recess ring design and for the lower price compared to Fuji.

Cheap tungsten? No, but I know where to get jumbo shrimp.

Too late. I have a lot more stuff than that, and I intend to use it all.

Like I said, I could tell no difference in the blank, before, or after, the cut. Blue did not feel it before the cut. His perception is simply his perception. I can say this is not your typical, whippy, noodle bending, ultra light rod. it is very crisp in response. That could be why, in his hands, it feels like heavier power rod than it's rating. Hogs, didn't take your question as argumentative. It's a valid question. Here's a thought. I think most people's experience with ultra light rods, mine included, is a 14.95 wally world stick, like a shakespeare, or zebco combo; and not with a premium graphite, high quality stick like this one. It's a night and day difference. A new feel, if you will.

Just watch a couple videos of people trying to eat this stuff. I'll pass, thank you very much.

Thanks for the kind words, gents. I only have one question. Blue asked me to wrap it to match his Supreme XT. No problem, says I. Since I'm color blind, that is sort of a problem, don't you think? I took my XT to Anglers Workshop and had the guys there pick out the thread. How did they do, Clayton? It looked OK to me, but what do I know? So, is it an ultra light, or a light, or even a ML? Beats me. I consider the designations basically meaningless. Batson calls that blank a UL, mod-fast. It's a mod-fast in my opinion. Feels a bit closer to light than UL to me, but again, that's my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions. I do know cutting four inches off the butt did not change it in any manner detectable by hand. Technically, after removing four inches from the butt, it is slower and has a little less lifting power. Well, you can't prove it by me. I could not tell the difference. I Clayton thinks it's a L/ML, I'm not gonna argue with his conclusion. We all have our own criteria we use to apply these designation, and we all can't be right, which means we all can't be wrong. You decide for yourself. Besides, the dude is bigger than me, and he carries a sidearm. I ain't arguing with him. Bottom lines is, if he likes it for what he's using it for, it's the right rod for the job.

Love bacon, but I hate to screw up the flavor of a prime piece of beef by wrapping it in bacon. A good steak needs nothing but salt, fresh ground pepper and searing heat.

You could get Eva craft foam to fill in the gaps. I would try carving out the holes where the missing chunks are to make it easier to fit new pieces. Use rubber cement to glue in the new pieces. That is the only thing I know of that will securely bind Eva. Sand to even it all out, then apply whatever wrapping you choose. I would most likely try some of the available shrink wrap grip material over Winn stuff. I have never tried this, so I can't give you exact step by step instructions.

A-Jay, if you have to cook inside, cast iron is the best. This does it one step better. https://www.amazon.com/Creuset-Enameled-Cast-Iron-4-Inch-Skillet/dp/B00004SBI7/ref=sr_1_13?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1487365506&sr=1-13&keywords=le-creuset&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2242049011 If you try one these, and you should if you like winter time steaks, here are a few tips. Dont oil the pan. Get it HOT pat the meat completely dry dont do the one minute on each side thing. Flip it once only. leave on one side long enough to make char marks. Takes a little practice to get it right, but well worth the effort. do not apply pepper before putting the steak in the smoking hot pan. You wont be able to breath. it takes a while to get the pan seasoned. Never put it in a dishwasher. Don't wash it in soap and water. Scrub brush it with hot water, apply a very light coat of oil, and place on the burner long enough to dry. This speeds the seasoning process.

Just like Dorado does it, except no worchestershire, and I use hardwood charcoal, not briquettes.

I have to agree completely with spoonplugger. A mod-fast rod is a whole lot better for pitching and flipping than a fast action. And don't get me stared on x-fast action rods.

Its healed fairly well. Still gonna be a dent. Got one just like it on the other side pretty close to being symmetrically opposed. When somebody asks, I lower my voice and tell "em that's where they removed the horns.

Didn't mind the time in the waiting room. It took three tries to get it all. What I didn't like was when the anesthetic wore off. Talk about a pain in the membrane!! It hurt so bad I could hear it. Literally. I know you can see the happy look on my face.

Don't have one.

I built a rod for my brother just for An Arbor reel. He let me have it to play with and get the seat in the right place. That thing was an excellent casting machine. I was impressed. I compared it to my Pfleugers; two Supreme XTs; one 25 and one 30. The Arbor outcasted both be a very noticeable margin.

the short answer is: only once.

want to see what skin cancer surgery looks like the day after? And I have more to go.

I used a Fuji ECS seat for that build. Wanted to save a little weight. The ECS is lighter than the MVT, which is lighter than the textouch. Kent requested a tip neutral rod. With that blank, 7'6", tip neutral would require one of two things; a stupidly long handle, or a heavy handle. Since he wanted a 10" handle, the rod needed a heavy rear end. I have a rod that I built with that MVT seat. I'm a big fan of Batson products. Love the Eternity and Immortal blanks, F series guides, textouch seats, etc. my power wrapper is a Alps. But that MVT reel seat is not worth the price of admission. I put it in the same class as Fuji's Torzite guides. They are for the guy who's ego demands his toys be the most expensive.