Hooligan

What I want in a flipping rod is a rod with serious power in the butt to move fish out of cover, and a relatively fast tip that will allow me to control what the bait is doing, as well as places casts accurately. Whether you choose MH or H is dependent upon what you find yourself fishing. I fish my H more than MH, I just like the way it moves fish. I also prefer a rod in the 7-6 to 7-11 range in 99% of the flipping I do. There are quite a few rods in the $100-!50 price range: Veritas, Team Daiwa S, Shimano, Duckett, St Croix Mojo. Baits for flipping can range from 1/8 oz jigs to 2 ounce punch rigs. Typically I'm flipping a jig more than anything else. I like a jig with a stout hook and balanced head. Weight of the jig depends on cover and the fall rate you're after. There really isn't a magic formula. In many situations a creature bait is a better option. I really like the Rage baits, Smokin Rooster and Hawg being my best last year. I fish all tungsten weights anymore, from 1/16 to usually 1.5 oz. Hooks, I like the Mustad Flippin hook, as well as the Owner Straight Shank Wide Gap. I don't use EWG hooks uch when flipping, it's a preference thing. I feel like I get better hookups with a traditional hook. That's an overview, I guess...

Has anyone gotten their mitts on them? I'm interested in how well they hook, slide in the body, and the durability of the bait after you've inserted the head. I can't imagine it being much different, but ya never know until you ask.

If you absolutely have to fish it on a head, which I sometimes do, I like the Owner Inshore heads as much as anything. And for more flash, Sworming Hornet.

Oh I'd completely agree that there's no need in replacing the frame. I'd worry about media blasting, though. Tolerances are pretty tight and no matter what micron you get down to you're going to be removing material. If it will go back together correctly and everything fits, I'd almost say let it be.

I'd guess that the cleaner has magnesium chloride in it, which is fairly common in citrus oil based cleaners. I don't think there's any reversing the effect.

What did you soak it in? It almost looks like saline corrosion on magnesium.

Maybe the McStick, too! 8-) I haven't fished any McSticks yet. I bought a few because they're supposed to have a really tight action with the nose tipped just enough down.

Pointers, Vision110, and Xrap. Depends on the conditions. Oh and Wild Shiner fishing for bass on pike lakes. I hate it when pike take my good baits away from me.

If you don't want to mess with a snell, I just use a bobber stop above my knot. I punch with 1.5oz tungstens and have had no issue since I started using the stop. It's easier than tying a snell knot on an EWG offset for me.

I've heard very good things about the River Runner. Have you gotten to play with it much yet?

It's gear ratio in conjunction with spool diameter that determine IPT. Think about it: 1:1 you have only one revolution of the spool in one handle turn. 5:1 you have 5 spool revolutions in one handle turn, you have 5 times the line brought in in the same crank of the handle. As far as more torque goes it most assuredly does. Any time you have a lower gear ratio you are transferring greater amounts of torque through the gear.

I'm not going to be much help, but if you ever have the chance, get your hands on a Loomis Bronzeback SMR750SSP. It's the most awesome little stream smallie rod that's ever been conceived. In a more "real" answer you might try looking at lite, versus ul, you may have more options in terms of length and action.

You're completely right, I worded my response incorrectly.

How so? One would think that lower gear ration when fishing high resistance baits like a DD22 is going to be less effort, and it will wear less on the reel over time. Not only that, but your gear ratio is going to determine the IPT. I'm not coming up with the same math as you are, showing closer to a 5" difference between the two. If that's the case, when you've moved the bait the entire 10', the 7.1:1 will have moved 50" further than the 6.4:1. That's a pretty substantial difference.

/agree The other thing that has me enthralled is the Thump Worm. Seeing it move in the water was pretty cool. I love how the tail undulates.

Didn't read all the answers, but from your description alone I'd just about guarantee there's a huge fish density in the pond, and that 3lb fish is about as big as you're going to see them. A two acre pond can only support so much biomass.

Part of the reason I tried it in the first place is because of its knot strength. They were testing it for break strength and it broke at the knot once or twice, but it was above the test rating. I've not had any problems with knots, fray, or anything else. I'll keep fishing it for darned sure.

Most shallow and medium cranks I fish on a Curado E7. Definitely like my winch or E5 for deep cranks like DT16 and DD14/22.

Most used would be Cumara 7-2 M/Stella and 6lb YZ ultra soft.

Thanks for the replies. Ebay has them going anywhere from $220 to $380 new and used. I may as well just keep it and play with it.

I'm not a big Daiwa guy, let alone knowing anything about the JDM reels. I picked up an Alphas from a guy for peanuts, and wonder whether I should sell it, or keep it and use it. It's a 103L. If I were to sell it, what would a reasonable price be? It's 9/10 look and 10/10 mechanically. Thanks in advance.

Bought a bunch of hardcores, and 3d flats when I was in the store today. Pike love the flats, and I've had pretty good luck on the hardcore.

I think "game changer" is a little drastic, but in terms of it being a pretty good top water? I'd say there is better than average chance that it will be.

You pretty much said it all right there. Seriously though, they're a decent lipless. I fish three kinds; Spots, Ratl Traps, and Red Eyes. All three fish a little different and all three have earned their place.

The flicker shad was developed specifically for walleye trollers, Phishin is dead on. Parsons talked a little about it last weekend.