Hooligan

The Rage baits take very, very little motion to have maximum action. I'm sure the grub will be the same as the rest of the baits in that sense.

Help a guy out. I'm a certifiable junky when it comes to rods, as most anyone that knows me will tell you. I've got in excess of 90 rods from various manufacture. One thing I've never done is get in depth in glass rods. I'm doing that now, after fishing a friends glass this weekend. I'm after two rods, really, a 7-0 to 7-4 and a 7-6 to 7-11. Shoot your opinions, and should you care, why you prefer that particular rod. Thanks in advance.

Everything I've come across in my travels is old stock. Stuff with dust on the top of the box, most faded to the point that the color of the boxes is radically different. I've tried to find a Rep for it a couple times and have emailed the company as well and have gotten nowhere. If Gamma is, in fact, in business, I'm sorely disappointed in the performance of the company at this point. I was perfectly willing, in April, to give them a shot. Now, though, it's July and I've never heard back. There are other companies that have product, support, and stock readily available.

I've got two favorites right now. The first is my 7-11 MH Cumara with a Calais. The second is my NRX 853 with a Core 101.

Personally, the braid that is most impressive to me is Kanzen. It's a higher density with far less slack line belly. It does sink faster than other braids, I would assume it's due to the finish. It's smoother than any other braid I've felt to this point. Thus far, I'm impressed with it. I hate superlines on the whole, I'd rather fish heavy fluoro for flipping and pitching the junk. I break off fewer fish than my counterparts using 25lb Abrazx to their 50lb braid. I'm satisfied with the results of that run, but the advantage of braid's casting behaviour excels in some situations. Kanzen will be the answer for me.

I've chewed Copenhagen for over 20 years. I wish I'd never started. I've tried to quit multiple times, including with patches and pills, and it's a no go. I don't have a particularly addictive personality, either. I've spent the equivalent of at least one new boat on Cope, and it irks me to no end. Worst friggin habit I've ever had.

That's the only gauge I shoot anymore. Ballistics and patterning have the 28ga at the top end of pack. Loaded correctly, the 28 is a superb performing little gun. I have no issue shooting anything on wings with it, and have shot competitive clays over the past 18 years and continue to do well with it. It's a superb little gun, superb characteristics in pattern and velocities. My favourite gun at this moment is a piece from the Browning Custom Shop; patterning over 85% on a modified @ 25 yards. The skeet and ic are roughly close to the same at 15 and 20.

Ultra high grade cork like on the NRX and GLX is my preference. Though on other rods, the preference is EVA; I like that it doesn't get slick and grimy when wet or after a lot of use. I've had many instances where cork gets slick. Since using rods with other material for handles I haven't had that issue. Ultimately, burl cork on all my rods would be the preference.

Sensitivity of the Veritas absolutely destroys the Mojo. There's no contest.

Same styling as Caenan, yes, but the Caenan is crap from the start. Don't even bother to compare them. Graphite frame, junk bearings...the list goes on. Curado still has septon grips and almost a retro blocky kind of feel. I'm biting my tongue until I get them in hand. My favorite reels are my older Curado reels. I'm sure the Chronarch will be just fine, too.

Odd. The couple of people I've heard from is that the blanks are different design. If the case is that they're built on the same blanks and same specs as the Cumara, what's the point? They've totally and completely eliminated going up to a Cumara versus a Crucial. Alconite versus Sic? Who cares, if the blank is the same as the Cumara. I'll tell you straight up, I won't buy a Cumara again if the blanks are the same.

From what I'm told, different blank. Same graphite, different blank.

That would have been from the first series that they moved their mfg to Korea. It's an independent house, if you will, essentially they make all their own reels now. They control all of their process and tooling.

Neither. It's a measure of minimum tensile strength that, when tested as new, the line must pass. I'm not 100% certain of the absolute method used to determine the number. In terms of difference, there really isn't any. One is just listed in ISO and one is listed as imperial. They should be equivalent.

ISO= International organization for Standardization (Any lines not of US origin usually carry this distinction.) US- United States customary measure or Imperial measure.

SilverThread AN40 15lb Tatsu Deep crank usually 12lb Tatsu. I fish a different rod entirely for my lipless baits. 7-11 MH XF Cumara with 15 or 20 lb Tatsu or Bawo 25.

One of my favorites for dragging tubes right now is the CUS76M. Perfect rod for dragging tubes in grass. Great distance casting as well as moves a lot of line for a clean hookset.

No apologies needed, really. I didn't mean for that to come across snotty, either. More a stance that the more info you can provide in terms of what you're asking for in terms of conditions and water, the more help you're liable to get. Cheers-

AFAIK He's been with Mustad from his second year. You're right, he was with Nichols. I'd forgotten that one.

Food for thought: do baitfish get darker at night? Do gizzard shad get black when the sun goes down? You're over-thinking it. Rarely, really rarely, do I switch away from baits that are a working color pattern during the day and I catch fish with no issue at night. I don't buy into the dark baits at night idea, never have, never will. I've outfished many an equally well skilled angler fishing the same patterns as during the daylight hours while they, albeit temporarily, went to their "Night bite" baits. KISS method, rarely fails you. (PS, fish don't read the same books we do.)

Two different baits, two different times, two different approaches. Bass rarely cruise, except brown fish. They tend to be more cover and structure oriented. That's not to say they don't, but more often are stationary ambush critters. I'm guessing they're seeing your Senko, but aren't interested in it. Move, move, move, move. Spinnerbaits may work, as will a plethora of other baits. Jigs, cranks, C rig, worm, the list is endless. You may not be fishing the right color, either. Sorry, but there's so little info in your post, you sound convinced of your findings already. If you are looking for solutions, be as specific as possible and there are a lot of really good anglers that are more than willing to help.

Currently I carry a Sig 229 in .40 S+W. I had been carrying a 226 in .40 for a while. I like the ballistics of the 226, but the size of the 229. Currently looking into purchasing a Kimber Pro Carry II. Anyone else have favorites?

I hunted a lot when I was younger, blew in some hunter classes and won a couple here and there. Mostly blow Carlson Calls. I've got a few hand built calls from across the country, there's a guy up in MN that makes a great call, C&S Custom Calls Mikey Stelzner is his name. Builds one of the best blowing singles out there today. I tried my hand at building some calls, and got fair results. I suppose I made a hundred or so, and had a pretty good knack after bit. It was fun, more than anything else.

I have both, use both, and love both. I have no issues with finish, and don't base the size of fish on the bait. I base the size of bait on what the fish want. Last year on a TX lake, one that is reasonably well known for hucking out the odd 15+ pound fish, we caught multiple double digit fish on SKT mini-MR. It's all about what the fish want. Yeah to year, they're one of my top producing baits.

Talk to Delaware Valley Tackle. Feed a sponsor, and a darned reputable business, your business.