Hooligan

Not trying to be a schmuck, make sure with the micros that all of them have guides. It can be deceptive, I've had them pop out on other rods and not really notice that they're not in there.

The Northland Crazy Legs Skirts work, as do the Strike King Perfect Skirts. They don't work as well as the flat rubber, mind you, but they work well enough.

When you calculate the numbers of orders shipped, if they didn't charge shipping, they'd be losing money on every transaction that shipped. It's basic math. Figure in the total numbers of what they ship, and the hours and handling it takes TO ship it, they've got to charge something. I totally understand how their shipping costs are built. TW is losing money on shipping, I'll guarantee you that. If it were at the volumes of BPS or Cabelas, they wouldn't be in business for long.

Uh, my fuming doesn't occur with any sort of wand, sorry. >

Here's the deal, the Curado was going to go up $20 regardless of the name change and design. That's it, plain and simple. There's nothing in the reel that's going to be different, the materials and performance you see will be the same as the Curado E series. The SOLE differences are double anodization on the spool and handle. (And color...) There's no "Justify the extra $20" comparison for the name, if you'd pay $20 more for the Curado then you're fine with the Chronarch. If not, you'd have been buying a Revo or another reel; it's as simple as that. If you can't justify the $199 for a superbly made, machined, and put together reel, well, there's the new Curado for you in the $159.99 price point. If you can't justify that, there's the Citica, if you can't justify that, Zebco might be more your speed. KevO, the reason the sideplate was hard to lock down is you likely had too much spool tension and it wouldn't allow it to seat properly. Regardless of how you "thought" it was set right, unless it was backed out enough that would have been the culprit. It doesn't take much, just a quarter turn of the tension adjustment and it won't let the side catch.

Yeah, it's pretty silly for you to get annoyed when you could as easily have called to make sure they have them in stock. Also, just because it's in the catalog doesn't mean it's going to be in the store. There's 300 some odd thousand items in BPS catalog and website, expecting any one retail location to stock everything is really quite silly.

Nope, won't until it hits a point that it pulls the line tight.

Length plays many parts, from shorter rods for greater casting accuracy and leverage to longer rods which offer greater casting distance and more power. There are no hard and fast rules in terms of what one rod length will or will not do, it's based very much on manufacturer. Along with length, you also get into action and power when choosing a rod. Bearing count isn't everything in a reel. In very general terms it most typically equates to how smooth and efficient the reel performs. That is a very general answer, without going into great detail of what other factors you look at instead of just the bearing count. As a point of reference a 7 bearing reel that has bearings in the right place and is machined to tighter tolerances will always perform better than a reel with 10 bearings that has lower tolerances and less rigorous quality control. Which "Guide" series of rod? There's not really enough information in that question to answer the full two parts. There are a lot of differences in the series of rods. A Reaction series rod is a rod that is made specifically for moving baits and treble hook lures. It has a, generally, softer tip and more progressive action through the length of the blank. It is designed to protect the hooks on moving baits from the fish throwing them. There are many differences that can be discussed at great length when it comes to this question.

Bob is pretty dead on. That particular spoon will really kite underwater. It moves side to side on the drop pretty dramatically. I've used it with some very good numbers on several occasions using a rip and fall retrieve. In terms of a vertical presentation, I've not done well with it, it wants to fall in circles too much. A VERY good alternative to fish vertically is the Northland Buckshot spoon. That bait is unreal in terms of numbers. I've also fished their new Flutter Spoon this year and it's a good option for a vertical presentation, too.

Right now, Little John DD. For the year and overall all time leader: Jig. (Currently it happens to be a Northstar JIg that I'm throwing with Rage Chunk/Craw as a trailer.)

Right, Matt, but isn't the 32886 a narrow gap hook in the first place? I mean, yes, it will work, but you're going to have to upsize the hook considerably to fish many plastics on a Trig versus being threaded on.

Biggest disadvantage is that it isn't designed with the hook gap to T-rig baits.

It's cyanoacrylate residue, common when CA fumes in an enclosed area. A total technique for developing latent fingerprints comes from the use of CA in a vacuum along with the non-porous object. As for how to remove it, why bother? It won't hurt anything, and it's a lot of work to get off.

No, with braid if there is any slack in the line at all, you feel nothing. Rolo, I don't disagree with you at all; which is why sometimes I like fluorocarbon that much more. Many instances of feeling a fish, laying it to them, and missing, only to find thatthey had it by the claws or tails. Next cast, same spot, let them mouth it, landed fish.

Don't get stuck just on jigs, either. A punch rig is a SUPER effective tool. We regularly punch mats 1.5'-2' thick with 1.5oz tungsten. It's amazing the strikes you get sometimes.

Premier series in 3/8 and 1/2; along with the 3/4 in deep water. Colors really vary, I've been fishing more PB+J and Green Pumpkin candy than anything here lately. The Junebug is stellar as well. As to the where and when, always and anywhere. One of the biggest reasons I like the alien head is that it's versatile in nearly all situations. It fishes very well in rock and wood, as well as has a very soft landing when pitching around docks and such. Because of the head design, it skips quite well, too. It's not the perfect grass jig, but in this area we tend to fish a lot of mixed cover and a traditional grass jig gets hung easily, the alien head works well enough in both that it is the most effective option. Great jigs and great service.

One of the nicest spinning reels at the $200 mark if you can find them (That will suit your requirements perfectly) is the Daiwa Certate. They can be found for $199 a lot of places. I know Bass Pro has them. (Point of contention: The JDM release and new USDM release is going to set you back $500 and they're built dang near the exact same.)) I have two now and have been VERY happy. The other reel that I'm googly eyed over is the CI4. The Certate in a 2000 size is right at 8oz and the CI4 is 7.2.

I think one of the biggest reasons that they're so reasonable in price is that they're a petroleum based plastic. It's just cheaper to make them.

It really depends on technique. Sometimes I have both hands on the rod but am only really using one hand to cast with the other basically on the reel.

Japan. I have two waiting for me when I get home today.

Braid bellies, and you cannot feel a bite on slack line, often on subtle takes you cannot see them either. Fluorocarbon transmits that bite. It has everything to do with not being braid and nothing to do with water absorption or stretch. It has to do with the density of fluorocarbon line. Then you see it wrong. When the line is under constant tension as in those situations where you're live bait rigging or trolling cranks. I'd take offense to your calling me an idiot, twice within the same post, but I'll consider it good natured fun, rather difference of opinion. There are many here, and elsewhere, that will back up every single thing I said about the line, some going further. I'm glad you like it, or seem to like it, but as with all things there are basis of fact as to why some others may not like it.

The rods are far different. The guides are different, the resins are different, and the Crucial is considerably heavier. They're definitely not the same rod. They're built with the same IM10 graphite, that's about the only real similarity. The blank designs are somewhat similar, but I thought they felt different enough that there wouldn't be any confusing them.

I could see guys moving to the Dobyns instead of IMX or GL3, for that matter I know of guys that have. Yet, when it comes to the NRX and CE, there's just no real comparison. For me, comparing a CE to the GLX is a stretch. There are guys that will swear by the Dobyns, but I'm not one of them. Don't get me wrong, I think they're a very, very well built rod, and they're definitely worth every penny. Yet, at the same time, the GLX and NRX are lighter and more sensitive, they fit me better- my style of fishing better. You may find that you'd take the Dobyns over the GLX and that's just fine, too; both are super quality rods. As a point of reference, the DX795 is far and away the very best flip stick I've ever handled. It has everything I want in a rod: Extremely powerful butt, a very, very smooth power transition, tremendous lifting strength, a tip that is soft enough to allow you to work a bait effectively without moving it ten inches at a time, and excellent sensitivity for a rod as powerful as it is. I would go so far as to say it's likely one of if not the best flipping sticks ever built. I have a handful of rods that I'm overtly in love with, and the DX795 is one. Would I sell my NRX, and other, rods and convert to Dobyns? No chance. I'm far too happy with what I have, and don't think I'm fishing solely NRX. I fish everything from St Croix Premier to Loomis, Cumara to Phenix. I'm not a slave to the name on the rod, reels are a different story.. I fish what works for me, regardless of what those around me fish. That would be my suggestion to you, get one in your paws and give it a shot, that's the only way you'll truly learn the differences in them.

Why? Fluoro transmits slack line bites, braid does not. If you're tight-lining everything, fine; otherwise, superlines suck. Nanofil will excel as a walleye line. Using it in situations where you have a solid constant connection like trolling cranks, pitching rigs and jigs, and a couple other situations I can see it being exceptional. I do not, however, see it becoming a mainstay in the bass fishing world. I've now fished two generations of the line, including the production model; my first instinct remains correct. I don't like the line at all. It has some good characteristics, but the bad outweigh the good. It floats so much that it drastically reduces the drop rate of baits, so much that it's a hindrance when fishing things like a weightless worm. It will, in some cases, float the worm. It gets a large slack belly with bottom contact techniques, and it skates on the surface of the water with many techniques. The only real benefit of the line, thus far, is that it has decent abrasion resistance. Frankly, there are far better lines for bass fishing, in many situations, mono will treat the average angler better than Nanofil. The only perceived benefit in most situations is the increased casting distance.

I have two, sorry. First is a Smokin' Rooster Trig with 1/4 or 5/16 unpegged, second is a Craw on back of a jig.