Oldbritguy

Over the past ten years or so I've been doing almost exclusively baitcasting for LMBass and Northern pike - mainly because there's a great local spot just 1/4 mile out from my dock. (And I'm getting too old -79 - and too lazy to bother running the boat any further). However, this year (if the ice ever melts?) I want to try some smallmouth fishing around the offshore rockpiles, and maybe a bit of casting for walleyes in the Spring. All my spinning stuff is at least ten years old, and most of the rods I built myself. (My eyes cant do that anymore). I'm sure the techniques have changed in this time, and also the rods/reels, lines, etc. Can you use light braid ( 6-8 lb) on a spinning reel with no problems? The waters around my area are usually gin clear. I'm looking to get a couple of spinning combo outfits that might be suitable for my needs. And I'd like to use braid/leader on at least one outfit. What do you guys suggest I check out? Appreciate any advice. . .

Yes; I fish crankbaits a lot in the open channels in very weeded areas, using 50lb braid (to get them back out of the weeds!) with a 6-8 foot leader of 20lb Suffix flouro leader material . I tend to prefer moderate action rods, and I usually dont need to whack them too hard when they strike. Most of them time they seem to hook themselves. I've had no problems with hooks ripping out, and very few get off the hook if I keep the rod up! Good luck. . .

That'd be me. Thanks for the generous offer bud. Where, and when? (Maybe I can get rid of a couple of mine at the same time???)

For years I fished with just one 7' spinning combo and one 6' baitcaster combo. (I'm very much an 'average Joe' bass fisherman, not interested in tournaments, etc.). Now I seem to have accumulated about a dozen spinning combos, and about 8-9 baitcasters - of various lengths, strengths and actions.. . I try to limit my daily arsenal (in the boat) to just four rods And I always seem to have a problem deciding which four to put in the boat when I go out. Despite the fact that I usually fish the same water, within a mile or so of my house. Sometimes I say to myself:" Just how few of these outfits do I REALLY need to take today"? My guess is that - if I wasn't too lazy to keep switching lures - I could probably manage with just two! What do some of you guys think? How many combos do you own. How many do you really use " a lot" . And how many combos do you take out each time, in the boat? Might be interesting to hear . . . . .

I have a couple of baitcaster reels that seem to wind more on one side than the other, maybe 1/32 or so more on one side of the spool than the other side? Is this a serious problem? I never noticed it before I came to respool one of them. What would cause this irregular winding, and how common is it? I guess there's no way to check for it on a new reel without spooling up. Any thoughts anybody?

Same way I always do. Run the line spool around a pencil clamped in the vice. Use a handfull of paper towel to provide tension; and just wind it on fairly tight. Never had a problem using this method.

I just spooled up a new Chronarch baitcaster with 50# PP Super 8 Slick line, and as soon as I release the tension on the line it starts to spring off the spool in loose coils? I've never had this problem before, and I've never used this line before. But I've not had this problem with other braids, and I've used several makes, mostly Suffix. Anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong here? Is it the line that's causing the problem, or my spooling technique?

Being somewhat new to this forum, I'm a bit curious as to why the old "round" baitcasting reels, (like my old 1978 ABU Ambassadeur ) are still popular, and some are also quite expensive? When there are so many of the newer 'low profile' models available, that seem to be much more suitable for casting. What is it about the older style 'round' reels that they are still selling, and some at such high prices? Can they do some things the newer designs can not do? Really interested to hear your opinions. . .

I'm like you. I fish a new reel for a season, then have it serviced by a pro. I'm lucky to have a licensed pro tech guy nearby, and I have all my reels cleaned and fixed-up every year. The only reels I've ever had problems with were the really cheap ones.( I have one old ABU 5501 that been in continuous use since 1978, and still works fine.)

I've seen a few references in here to guys taking apart a brand new baitcaster reel and cleaning off the grease, etc. Then lubricating and re-assembling. What is the purpose of this? Does it really improve the performance of the reel? What is involved in this procedure. How difficult is it; and Is it a wise thing to do?

No wonder I'm confused. I thought C14+ was Shimano's model number, not the material. . . It can be very confusing if you don't know. . .

Maybe I'm confused by Shimano's model numbering system, but I thought the correct model name is: "Chronarch C14+" ( i.e., see-one-four-plus) . And I still can not find any 'pro' tests/reviews on this reel? I think the Ci4 (SEE-eye-four) is a Stradic spinning reel, not a Chronarch baitcaster?

Did that. But got 'locked'. All I really wanted to find was one or two 'pro' reviews of the features of this reel. Can't seem to find one anywhere??? Surely somebody must have done a review of the features, pros, cons, etc.?

Looking for any reviews/tests, etc. on the new Chronarch C114 Plus. Anybody help here???

Does anyone know of any reviews of this reel? Anybody in here have one? Just interested. . .

I just checked out these reels on Google. Seems like they're not available with Left Hand wind??? Strange. . .

I never heard of these reels before. Where can I see the reviews you mentioned?

Most of my bass fishing to date has been crankbaits/spinnerbaits/ surface plugs, etc. But I want to try Flip/Pitch/Punch in the heavy weeds this season. Just bought a Loomis GL2 FPR 7'-5" rod and looking for recommendations for a suitable quality reel to match. Any suggestions welcome.

Why do you prefer using a reel with 7:1 gear ratio?

Very interesting comment Curly: Years ago (many, many years ago) when I was a little lad, fly-fishing for trout in our local brook in Worcestershire, the same thing would happen. There would be a violent strike at the fly, but no fish on. But sometimes, the fly would float back on the surface, and the bugger would come back and eat it for real. So I learned to wait. Now I'll have to learn to do the same for surface fishing for bass. Interesting. Small world, eh?

Thank you guys. Lots of good advice in here. As most of my rods are 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 foot slow/medium rods, I was thinking of getting a Loomis GL2 'Flip and Punch' for next season. Does this sound like a suitable choice for this kind of situation? We have a large sunken island just off my place. loaded with good-sized lagemouths (4-5lbs or so) but its thick with tall, dense, heavy weeds, and I can only get the bass along the edges. I'd like to get into the slop and get some more if I knew how? I know they're deep in there. I swim there all the time. . .

I think I need a heavier rod/reel combo, plus my striking technique may to too soon, if your description is correct? I'm more accustomed to using crankbaits.

Last year I bought a couple of those life-like floating frogs with the two big hooks embedded between the back legs. (Can't remember the name, but they're very well-known)? I wanted something to use in the dense weeds and heavy cattails near my place. I got quite a few strikes using them, but not one single hook-up? Are these lures hard to hook up, or what am I not doing???

I'm right-handed, but prefer to reel with my left hand, casting or spinning. That way my right hand is always holding the rod at all times, no switching over and missed strikes. Never could understand why anyone would want to keep switching hands after casting?

Thanks for response. Not sure what the specs of the blank are. Bought it from MudHole Tackle's store in Florida a few years back. 6' long, medium action with a soft tip. Threw crankbaits really well. I was hoping I could find a suitable piece of solid graphite or glass about 1 mm dia. that would fit tight inside the two bores, and just epoxy them together. But as you point out, it would never be the same. . . I may just have to let it go.