Skeeterman225

Found this one and thought it might be what you are looking for. the sinkers are a little short and squattier to allow for the concave base, but it's a nice tradeoff. They do a lot better in rocks than the standard skinny bullets. http://www.lurecraft.com/catalog.cfm/molds/lil-mac-midget-lead-molds/bullet-sinker-mold:3061

Here is the white crappie I use on spinnerbaits.

Here is the one I use. It's around 50 bucks as Wally World. I started with a smaller one that was around $20, but soon outgrew it. There are 138 heads hanging in the oven in this pic so it's got plenty of room.

There was a slight bit of sarcasm there. Been doing that with mine for a while. Works really good at times.

Those absolutely will not work. Your wasting your time.....lol Look good.

What Cadman said. All of my jigs are painted, none if my Texas rig/Carolina rig sinkers are painted and most of my shakey heads aren't. Fish wants to eat it'll eat...

I have used both. The solid blades tends to have a wider range of motion than the one with holes. The solid plane will also plane more than the one with holes. Once you figure that out and how to make it do it, you can really make it dance at the right time. Heavier ones, not so much, but lighter ones are pretty easy to do it with. Need to leave the blade straight though and not put any bends in it to do this.

Anybody use this. Tinkering with it and just wondered what results some of you have had with it if you have used it. Durability, cure proces...etc.

These will get you close. I haven't had one of those jigs in my hand, but have made some with some of these and turned out acceptable. green pumpkin glimmer blue 420 army green pumpkin 372 If you want a little greener GP for the other color can use this dark green pumpkin 310

Look good to me

Just reread this....lol "stupid" is supposed to be "grips"......dang auto correct on phone.....

Those would be sweet on a good crankin reel. I like bigger handles and grips. Seems to cut down on hand fatigue. Plus those should have a whole lot more grip when wet than the standard knobs. Nicely done.

Thanks guys. Don't think that one would be very weedless....lol Drew.....cool looking paint job on that crank.

Been down for 3 weeks after back surgery so made a "razorback jig".....lol I am from Arkansas and even though they are quickly becomming the laughing stock of college football still got to support em. This is number 1 of 1.....lol This is one of those dust collectors.....

Look good. Now just need to put on few teeth marks in the paint.

You can put any size on there that will fit the gap in the wire. Can go small for subtle or large for louder.

I use 2 unless it's a complicated color. Then it might get thicker in order to balance out the colors I'm looking for.

Rubber does not come seperate unless you can find the skirts individually made. Take your strand of rubber, stretch it out and cut slowly across just in front of your fingers. Will seperate each strand quikly and you won't have to do each one individually.

Looks good. And don't worry about that top being a little long. I think you'll like the added action. Don't know if you've ever watched a finesse cut skirt in the water, but cutting the top off not only thins the skirt, but the short part looks just like a crawfish tail kicking.

Unless you buy them in bulk and have them plated yourself, I do not know of any other than the normal suppliers (Barlow's, Jann's, etc.) Be ready to pay for them. They are not cheap even if you get them done yourself. I have some solid ones that I have had done, and it if wasn't for painting the head on the bait, you have almost as much in the blade as the entire rest of the bait.....

Thanks again for the kind words everyone. Cadman: I don't need to be named after the size of my average catch.....lol msajaa sent you a message.

I'd go with 3 first 2 second. Like the way the edges are brought out more on the third one

I live in a pretty rural area. The closest neighbor I have is 70 to 80 yards from my shop and that's on the other side of my house. All others are even further than that. I only melt lead outside about twice a year. I do enough at one time to last. I buy much of my stuff that I use, so I really don't do all the much here. At normal lead pot temps you will not have any vapor from the lead. The fan is more for precaution and contaminant fumes than anything. I have a 8 m/o and he is checked at each Dr. visit and he has not been affected, so given the distance to my neighbors and the close contact of my son to me, I would say that any stuff that might be in the air fully dissapates before it travels that distance. Your point is a good one though. There are those that don't think about the other person.

Thought this might be some useful info, esp for the newer pourers. I had some bloodwork done the other day, so I figured my as well throw a lead level in there since the vampires already had their soup. I've been doing my business for 3 years, and have been around lead for personal use for over 15 years. Leads levels were below the range at which they start worrying about (3.3 something,something units) They don't even give you a total if under that, so I'm GOOD!!! Anyway, here are some of my do's and don'ts I use. - When handling raw lead 99% of the time I have gloves on. There is the occasional run outside and check something that I don't. -After handling lead, even with gloves on, I immediatly wash my hands when coming inside. -99% of raw lead stays OUTSIDE of the house, including poured but unpainted heads. Exception would be when checking orders in to ensure I got everything. -All dirty lead is cleaned outside in open air -All poured, but unpainted heads go sealed tuperware containers.....I slip on this one with the ignots though. Some reason I keep leaving them out.... -Clean lead is melted inside shop, but pot is in front of window with window fan. Fan pulls air behind me over pot and out window. -I always let fan run at least 20 minutes before spending any amount of time in shop. -I know some wear masks, but I don't. I just don't like them and as long as I can keep it in check I probably won't. That's my personal choice. I would recommend wearing one along with safety glasses for extra precaution. I'm just stubborn. This may be boring, but figured it would help some new ppl out and ease the worries of some as well. I would encourage having you lead levels checked periodically if you work with lead much just to be on the safe side. If you are careful with it, you will never have any problems. I figure a few dollars every 3 or 4 years to get it checked is well worth it.

If you are wanting to pour you own then the Round Head Do-It Mold is pretty close. It's model number is: RWR-3-AYM. That one has 5/16th, 3/8th, and 7/16th in it. Uses the 32798 Mustad Hook. They also have other models for lighter or heavier. Here's a pic of a finished jig out of one: