new2BC4bass

Man. That's a tough question. I own both. I consider both to be excellent reels for the money. Would hate to have to choose just one. Advice given to many by many....go to store and handle both. Buy the one that feels the best to you.

I learned with a side arm cast. Was tough for me. It wasn't until later that I tried the roll cast. Maybe it was because I knew how to cast before trying the roll cast, but I find it vastly easier to execute. I use it from Light to Heavy power rods. I don't notice a difference in my ability to use any of my rods....but I don't own a cue stick. Hopefully the OP didn't buy a cue stick for his first rod.

There is one terrible downside to your first baitcast reel. It won't be your last.

My Revos are all older models so I can't offer suggestions on how to set the brakes other than to say start high and slowly back off. Adjust spool tension so the lure falls slowly and has no overrun when the lure hits the ground. If this were a Magforce Z reel, then my spool tension advice would be different. Braid is expensive. 30# works on a baitcast reel, but you have to keep it fairly tight on the spool. I'd suggest starting with 40# if you want to start with braid. As a newbie backlashes are guaranteed. Less costly to replace mono or co-polymer. Don't start with the overhead cast. Learn with a side arm roll cast. Baitcast reels hate jerky motions. A roll cast keeps the rod tip loaded. Be smooth. I came from spinning reels. Release timing is completely different...as already mentioned. The roll cast will be your friend. Most fluorocarbons are going to be more prone to backlashing then any of the other line types...with a couple exceptions on both sides.

I often read older threads that have been brought back up to the top. (After all I did read this one. ) As you say, sometimes there is new information. I feel that it is usually advantageous to start a new thread if you have questions or want to give an opinion on some gear.

Thread is a year and a half old. My guess is that the OP already bought his rod and reel. Or he decided fishing wasn't for him.

Set spool tension and brakes. However, we can't give any advice until we know the model reel you bought.

Close, but no cigar. Should say DAIWA. Just stirring up the pot. OP: You should add a little more information. Price range is a must. There is a bit of difference between the cost of a Trion or President and a Stella or Exist G LT. Rods are the same way. Lure weight is something else that plays into which rod to buy. Will a ML fit the bill, or will you require a Medium?. How would any of us know unless we knew you personally? My Ned Rig is a Major Craft Benkei 6'7" LF and BG1500 with light braid. Been out once with it. No fish caught. Been told this is a bass rod, not a trout rod, and has decent backbone. Rated 1/16-1/4 oz. if i remember correctly. Time will tell if I need a more powerful rod. EDIT: Started this a couple hours ago, but had work to get done. Some of this has already been mentioned while I was out earning my pay.

First to the forum. Lots of great information here. Lots of great guys and gals here. (Well...way fewer gals. ) If you were good enough with a baitcast reel to cast 1/16 oz., you wouldn't be asking this question. Not being a smarty here, but I've been at it 10 years and I can't cast 1/16 oz. I have to admit that I don't get out near as often as most people on here. Plus I started at a much older age. Getting good with weights below 3/16 oz. takes practice. I haven't tried my tuned Pixy with 1/16 oz. yet, but I seriously doubt I can cast it even with that reel. Quite a few others can cast that low and do it with a variety of reels. For me...light weights require the correct rod AND reel. Not being as good as many of these guys, I need all the help I can get. Most reels capable of handling a weight that low are going to be expensive. One cheaper option is an older ProLite. If you can find one. Another option is to purchase a finesse spool for your reel. DIY spools are quite reasonable while others cost about half the price of a new ($250 or more) reel. It took me a while to get to where I can cast 3/16 oz. Shad Raps with no trouble. Going lighter ain't fun for me. Not trying to discourage you, but make you aware of the fact that weights below 3/16 oz. require more skill than a lot of us have. Even with the right gear.

My nicest and most expensive rod (MSRP, not my cost) is a MH spinning rod. It just sits as I much prefer baitcast gear for any lure that this rod would be used for. My vote would be for the MF spinning rod. Like said elsewhere, if it was a baitcast rod, then I would opt for the MH.

Shimano Sellus rods were white, but I see the new ones are a bright blue. Not a fan of white. Nor the old Lightning Shock rods. Nor Yellow. I don't see many professionals using white.

My fishing buddy when I visit Florida says salt water fishing is too much like work. He will stick with bass.

Congratulations? Or sympathy?

I haven't been leaderless in over 43 years. That is how long I have been married.

Jake. Watch out. He is a she.

Yup. Something ain't right. My first guess would be the rod for that weight. I have a 7'6" MHF rod from a brand known to fish heavy that is rated 3/8-1 1/4 oz. It will barely cast a 1/2 oz. spinnerbait a decent fishing distance. Forget about 3/8 oz. Lighter line will only help casting distance. I'd be leery of 30# braid as I have snapped a 1/2 oz. jig off when my 30# braid wrapped around the rod tip (spinning rod) and I didn't notice. I'd have to say 60 yards is doable with the right rod. The reel I was using on a 7' MHF rated 1/4-1 oz. with a 3/4 oz. saltwater spoon tied on was leaving me with less than half a spool of line on my better casts. It holds 135 yds of 12# mono. I was using 40# braid which is supposed to be equivalent to 12# mono. Spool filled to the bevel. I am not one of those guys capable of spooling a reel.

Go to Tackletour Archives. At the bottom of the line reviews are two articles comparing fluorocarbon lines. In the second article "Fluorocarbon Showdown: Part Two" they compared line stretch. Check the first article to see what fluorocarbon looks like when you have to break it due to a snag. I had to cut several extra feet off.

That's my problem. Lotta options . Thin bank account.

$130 for a Tat SV in good shape is a decent price. An SV reel is good if you are a beginner with baitcast gear. An SV spool is good if you plan on using the reel for skipping. An SV spool is good for lighter baits. How light will your lures be...in total? If the total weight is going to be around 5/16 oz. and over (and you have some baitcast reel experience) then you don't 'need' a reel with an SV spool. A standard Tatula CT will serve you well, and can be had for less. I will say I really like the looks of my Tat SV. Definitely not trying to talk you out of an SV. Just pointing out that an SV may not be necessary in your case if money is tight. Also would you consider buying used? You can get some very good deals off this and other boards. Probably my best buy was $65 for a used reel in very good condition that listed for $250 new. Also closeouts can be very good occasionally. Try $98 for a new reel that previously sold for $200. This would be over your budget, but if looking for a sensitive rod you might want to give it a look anyway. http://tackletour.com/reviewabuvillaincasting.html

Rods: Fenwick HMG, Okuma TCS (from ebay), Tatula XT, some Ark rods have been getting good reviews, so maybe a Lancer Reels: Pflueger President, Daiwa makes several that would fit your budget. The BG would be towards the high end, but can be found for less on ebay. Built like a little tank. I haven't used an Okuma spinning reel, but have a couple of their baitcast models. Good reels for the money. Any of these combos should make you budget. Well...a TCS/BG would require some looking and waiting for the right price.

Yup. ABE area. Allentown, Bethlehem, Easton. A boat would help get me away from the really pressured areas. Would still be fishing pressured areas no matter where I went on a boat. Guys that can run a boat on the Delaware River have good luck. A jet boat is rather expensive. The few public shore areas I've tried on the Delaware are pathetic. From what I've read/heard, the Delaware is the only area where numbers of fish can be caught....if you have the means. I don't like fishing rivers.

Sounds like you need to throw some 10" ribbontail worms and some Senkos into the mix. I like my spinnerbaits, too. My 2 biggest bass where caught on spinnerbaits. If you want to try some really tough fishing, try my area of PA.

I'm another that buys rods based on my needs and reviews by trustworthy (hopefully ) guys on boards like this one. I have favorites from several brands including, but not restricted to Falcon, Fenwick, ALX, Daiwa, Dobyns and...yes...Quantum (higher priced models).

You've already proved an 11' rod isn't too long for you. As others have stated: the technique, area being fished (surrounded by trees or in open water?) and where you are fishing from (shore, bass boat, kayak, canoe, yacht, pontoon, destroyer, etc.) play a more important roll in rod length selection. You asked for an opinion. Mine is that height has nothing to do with rod length.