new2BC4bass

LH or RH? Does it need to be new? Now isn't the best time, but occasionally you can find great deals on used reels. Even now when it seems to be a sellers market. Just be sure to do a little research. Without mentioning the reel, there is one on another site the seller was asking $30 more than the original MSRP for one in VGC. Price is now down to MSRP. BUT there are a few other reels at decent prices and in good condition (at $100 or less). Quite a few of my reels were purchased used. I've no regrets.

Check reviews on Tacklewarehouse. Review here if you didn't already see it. https://www.nationalprostaff.com/posts/58062/shimano-caius-review Amazon has reviews ranging from 1 star to 5 stars (more 5 stars than anything else) . BUT I don't put much stock in Amazon reviews. I'm sure the reel is like any other product. Sometimes bad ones get through. I've had it happen to a $240 reel. Got to expect it to happen occasionally with an $80 reel. OP wants a MF action. I don't think there is one in the Procyon line. I did buy a spinning model as a birthday gift for a brother-in-law. Seems like a very nice rod for the money and I would add it to the OP's list if he wouldn't mind a Fast action rod. I don't know if the rods are a true Fast. Maybe you or someone else can comment on that.

Can I assume casting? Lure weights? EDIT: Rods: Daiwa Aird Coastal Inshore, Falcon HD, Falcon BuCoo, Fenwick HMG, Lew's TP1X Reels: Daiwa Fuego, Lew's Speed Spool LFS, Okuma Cerros, Quantum Energy, Shimano SLX or Caius

I've never seen these knots tested against each other, but I seriously doubt the GT Knot is all that much stronger than a Uni Knot. I've straightened jig hooks with the Uni Knot. I've tried the Alberto a couple times and the FG Knot once. None broke. The last time I connected backing to main line I use a 5-wrap Blood Knot. I put more tension on the lines than I ever would with a rod. It held. I don't understand why people have so many problems with leader knots or splicing lines. What kind of force are they exerting on the line? I've pulled a boat over to a snag without ever breaking a knot. I realize that isn't the same as a quick snap. Guess my hook sets just don't measure up.

Used spinning only before I quit fishing for 23 years. Decided to try a baitcast reel when I got back into fishing in 2009. I never looked back. I've purchased a few spinning rods and reels since then, but they hardly ever get used.

I'm not the only one????

True. Not many are going to be using their $1299 phone 10 years from now, but that $1000 rod will still be in use if taken care of. As someone pointed out in a previous thread most Japanese don't have the room for more than one or two rods so spending $1000 a rod (with an arsenal of 1 or 2 rods) is less than what many of us Americans spend on our rod arsenal. I know I fit this scenario. My most expensive rod (my cost) is $185 for a used custom. Yet I have much more than $2000 invested in rods.

Tatula Elite, Quantum Tour S3 or Quantum Smoke S3 (or the KVD model) or if you can find a used one in good condition, a Pinnacle Primmus HS Xi or Okuma Helios Air. There are some Shimanos that I'm sure would also work, but I've little experience with the newer models. I like my Curado 201E7 and Chronarch 100B for distance casting, too.

Lots of people like to do their own work. Personally I've never been one to tinker so I prefer using professionals even tho it would save me a bundle if I did my own work. Maybe when/if I retire I can get into at least doing the cleaning part myself.

I don't. (Feel bad about my cheap setup.) Berkley Lightning 6' MH and Daiwa Procaster 100HN. Whopping $48.02 total (with tax) both purchased new. My dedicated short range spinnerbait rod. However, I'm not going to apologize because my more expensive gear gives me more pleasure to use even though it may not catch more fish.

I'm not upset. I thought we were having a friendly discussion/partial disagreement. I value your opinion as it is backed with more actual experience than mine. The OP hasn't given enough information for me to offer any kind of solid recommendations. As you are well aware of, this is not the first time that has happened and for sure won't be the last. All we can do is offer advice based on our own experiences. It is the OP's responsibility to figure out which best suits her circumstances. She (I assume female from the username) has received some good options...including yours. I apologize if I've upset you James. Wasn't my intention. I was simply trying to point out that where and how you fish has a little something to do with line choice. I've fished where 8# mono/co-polymer would be my first choice. I've fished where 40# braid would be my first choice.

IMO when learning to use a baitcast reel, distance should be the last thing on your mind. I have zero idea of the type of water the OP fishes in. When I started with a spinning reel (at age 6....cane pole at age 5), Dad set me up with 8# mono (Trilene XL, I think), In my mid-teens I went to 4# XL. This was in ponds and lakes on the NY/PA border (I'm originally from an extremely small town in northern Bradford County). We fished open water. Fishing with my brother-in-law in Florida I am using 40# braid casting into lily pads, etc. I use 12# mono or co-polymer on a couple MH rods. Most often with a 3/8 oz. or 1/2 oz. spinnerbait. I use 8# mono or co-polymer on my treble hook Medium power rod. I really don't think replacing the braid and 12# lines with an 8# line is going to increase my catch. Now if I were going to be fishing in some of the Upstate NY lakes (or even the ones I fished as a youngster), then 8# mono/co-polymer would be my first choice. And I would be fishing Medium or Medium Light power rods the vast majority of the time. In Florida I prefer MH rods and heavier lines.

I have absolutely no idea if this is a viable cause, but it seems to me the rod may very well be your biggest problem. I'm thinking it may not have the necessary power to set the hooks. What does it say on the rod? Power, action, rod material? Medium Heavy (MH)? Fast? IM6?

I don't see why she should learn faster using small line. Please explain. Also Heather has nothing in her profile so how do you know she will catch more fish with smaller line? I'm speaking of 12#-15# not 25# mono. Is she fishing with 20 foot visibility or 18 inches?

I hope not. I use a lot of 8# mono or co-polymer on Medium/Medium Light power rods. Never had problem yet. And I use it on several brand reels. Some guys on here use braid equivalent to 4# mono and claim to have no issues with the braid on a baitcast reel. Heather, a lot of guys recommend Big Game to learn on. It is fine...once it gets wet, but if it has sat on a reel for awhile it has more memory than some other lines. It is a great mono, but I would suggest something else to learn on. Sufix Elite or Sunline Super Natural are both soft lines with low memory. Berkley Trilene XL is another soft line. Softer lines have less memory than a harder line. Generally speaking they will also have less abrasion resistance than a harder mono/co-polymer. 8# line is going to be harder to untangle backlashes than a heavier line. I'd suggest starting with 12#-15# line. Many fluorocarbon lines have more memory than mono/co-polymers. Not all, but I'd do some research first if you decide to go that way. Good luck and welcome to the baitcast world. Once I used my first baitcast reel, I never looked back. You don't want to know how many I've collected since getting my first one in March 2009. Also a huge to the forum.

I like Sufix Siege Neon Tangerine on my baitcast reels. I would prefer Elite on spinning reels, but it does not come in that color. It does in Hi-Vis Yellow, but I don't recall seeing any so I don't know how well it shows up. The Neon Tangerine show up very well for me. I have some Big Game in Solar Collector that I am going to try. It is a VERY bright green on the filler spool. Don't know yet how well a single strand will show up on the water.

I'd personally go for the Light.

I am like some of the guys that responded first. Basically how can I answer that if I can't afford to buy top tier reels to try. I'm a fan of Daiwa, so I'd probably have to pick a Steez since I have a couple older used models. Sure wouldn't turn down a top of the line Shimano either. I am like Mr. Franco...love my Purple Alphas and my 50th Anniversary Zillion is another reel I could stand to have a few more of.

I've done that with new reels. Adjusted drag and cast control, but forgotten the brakes. Only took me one cast to discover my mistake.

ALX Zolo Toadface 7'2” MH+F 4.25 oz. The Ark Money Maker fishes heavy. 7’3” MHF 4.68 oz. I didn't weigh my Tatula before shipping to Florida, but two of the 7' rods (MR & MLR) weigh less than 4 oz. My Okuma Helios 7' MF weighs 3.34 oz. Tackletour gave it a "Great" rating. Maybe look for a HF. Review of 7'M here. http://tackletour.com/reviewokumaheliosrod.html My Quantum Smoke Inshore 7' M weighs 3.57 oz. I have no idea what the Smoke S3 weighs. There are light weight rods out there. Takes a little digging to find them. Very few give rod weights.

Find the Inferno specs here. https://www.*.com/Powell-Inferno-Casting-Rods-p/powell-infcst.htm

Best? No idea. Currently have on OG Tatula 7'4" HF I keep in Florida for frogs and an ALX Toadface for local. No experience with them but the Okuma EVX 7'5" HF and Genesis II or III 7'5" HF Fred's Magic Stick would also be top contenders if I needed another frog rod and wanted to try something different.

I don't know about the cost of getting the rubber on the ring, but as someone who has programmed lathes for 36 years I can tell you we couldn't get a customer to pay even $1 for the metal part. So it may be a handy tool, but I have to agree it is overpriced.

Less than one percent of my baitcast reels have braid. Twenty percent of my spinning reels have braid. I happen to prefer mono or co-polymer.

My daughter just ordered some bright blue Crocs for me this afternoon. If they fit and are comfortable, I will have to order the purple ones, too.